Magnaride

[Rodpwnz]

The VDM flash is really what I'm after from the Kit - I would just buy 5300-W springs and flash if I could.

I reached out to Levittown Ford parts department - hopefully they can pull in soon.

Worst case, I buy 5300-W springs and calling it a day since the GT500 Dampers will have much more damping force without the VDM flash.

I think since damping force is around double per level of electrical current provided, the jump/difference between Normal, Sport and Track damping will be more significant on OEM PP1 VDM tune.

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[shogun32]

the jump/difference between Normal, Sport and Track damping will be more significant on OEM PP1 VDM tune.

nobody knows what the OE programming curves looks like. So the difference may well be the same 'linear' relationship.

 

[TeeLew]

nobody knows what the OE programming curves looks like. So the difference may well be the same 'linear' relationship.

I can top that. Hell, I don't know how the maps that I came up with produce force. The whole thing is done blind. That's the Achilles Heel of the present system. The lack of a logging function or any real way to determine input-to-output relationship of the system is a massive weakness.

Imagine trying to tune an engine where your only measure of RPM is your ear and AFR is determined by your nose. Obviously guys did it, but at the time, dampers were a leather strap and a wood clamp.

 

[Rodpwnz]

Update on Lead time from Levittown Ford parts:

9602-M has multiple month LT

5300-W has multiple week LT

I'll keep looking for 9602-M anywhere I can find it but will most likely have to settle for just 5300-W

 

[Rodpwnz]

Have all the parts and ready to install - just need to set aside time to do it myself this weekend or take it to a shop next week.

For IRS, I went with White lines KDT943 IRS lockout kit and BMR alignment dowels. I knew the IRS pucks were not metal, but man they feel like very flimsy plastic... not sure if that makes a difference compared to something as rigid as metal.

 

[shogun32]

I went with White lines KDT943 IRS lockout kit and BMR alignment dowels. I knew the IRS pucks were not metal, but man they feel like very flimsy plastic.

it's a poly and if you go metal, or a hard poly (shore 90) you will hear everything.

 

[Rodpwnz]

it's a poly and if you go metal, or a hard poly (shore 90) you will hear everything.

Thanks for the reassurance - The less NVH, the better. Will keep everyone posted.

 

[Rodpwnz]

Update:

Tried to install the GT500 magneride dampers and FP 5300-W springs with my buddy in his garage. Started with the front right since that was where my blown strut was, and got to the lower strut bolts to remove the strut. Tried every trick in the book besides a heat torch, and after a couple hours of heavy hammering, couldnt get the splined bolts to budge. Mushroomed the bolt and bent the threads where the nut sat on the end....had to file down the bolt tip and slowly realign the threads on reassembly. After that I decided to fork up the near $1K for professional install instead at a performance shop.

Shop installed GT500 magride shocks/struts, 5300-W springs front/rear. As well as MMR camber plates and the IRS dowels + Lockout kit. Shop said to get an alignment after driving a bit and suspension settles. Also replaced diff fluid with 75w-90 amsoil severegear(Old diff fluid was dirty).

After a 2 hour commute and some riding around town for the past couple weeks, the ride is defintely firmer than before. What was sport/track mode stiffness before is normal mode now, and damping modes between sport and track feel nearly identical. What also may have previously been an occasional minor plastic interior trim rattle from a short patch of rough road is now a loud rattle/chatter from the C pillar, rear seat clasp or rear parcel shelf more often than not. Reminds me of the buzzing dial up sounds, but louder. Not sure if the damping is too much, or if the spring rates are too much, but spring rates going from 165/728 to 240/735 is a big jump. This is 99% of the time my daily driver and commuter. So far I'm feeling like I would have been better off with M1 HP springs or something more middle ground, or with GT500 dampers just in the front and OEM PP1 kept in the rear. I'll see if I get used to how rough the car is now - it might be fine for me in a couple more weeks.

Other things to note:
1. I can hear a slight squeaking sound coming from front driver suspension/strut while going over slight road imperfections. Sounds like swishing or whooshing sounds while driving 15-50mph. The shop that installed my suspension said they would take a look, but I'll get an alignment first and see if that sorts things out first.

2. To me, each corner looks like wheel gap is inconsistent but after measurement, they are within a quarter inch compared against each other.

3. After installed suspension, I scanned for codes and found U0416 - I cleared the code and haven't had anything new pop up in the last 30 miles of driving. Code probably came from the defective front right OEM PP1 damper. I'll check for codes again occasionally. Also have 0x7E8 Engine Control Module "code queried", whatever that means.

 

[CoolRod]

Tech tip: Use a ball joint press to remove those splined strut bolts. Much easier than pounding the ever loving sh*t out of them.

 

[TeeLew]

after a couple hours of heavy hammering, couldnt get the splined bolts to budge. Mushroomed the bolt...

Did take the nut off first?

 

[Rodpwnz]

Did take the nut off first?

I initially kept nut threaded on the end of bolt as to NOT mushroom, but eventually removed in a deperate attempt to avoid further destroying the bolt threads. Figured it's easier to file off bolt than it is to fix destroyed threads.

 

[shogun32]

I'm feeling like I would have been better off with M1 HP springs or something more middle ground

Tonight I just switched from my gt with hybrid dual rates to the mach1 with Steeda dual rates. Mach has magride. Normal mode is such a couch! And still WAY under damped.

Sport vs track will show more when you hit square edges bumps. Sport compression is plenty, I wouldn't go higher, but rebound still inadequate.

Track mode should have focused more on slow comp (under braking) instead of keep raising the high speed comp. But when your suspension engineers aren't very good, they reach for the wrong knob.

The Ford springs you selected also sacrifice shock travel, yes? I would not use springs that lower more than 0.5" frankly. Also a little late now but replace all bump stops with eibach. The Ford parts are embarrassing. And you absolutely do NOT want Steeda's "adjustable" blue ones unless youre tuning a track car.

 

[TeeLew]

I initially kept nut threaded on the end of bolt as to NOT mushroom, but eventually removed in a deperate attempt to avoid further destroying the bolt threads. Figured it's easier to file off bolt than it is to fix destroyed threads.

I was just busting your balls.

 

[Rodpwnz]

Tonight I just switched from my gt with hybrid dual rates to the mach1 with Steeda dual rates. Mach has magride. Normal mode is such a couch! And still WAY under damped.

The Ford springs you selected also sacrifice shock travel, yes? I would not use springs that lower more than 0.5" frankly. Also a little late now but replace all bump stops with eibach. The Ford parts are embarrassing.

If my measurements are correct, I'm seeing around .25 inch lowering with 5300-W springs, which is much less than the 20mm advertised. Let's see where it ends up after alignment.

I also can't find the pictures I took of the OEM wheel gap from ground to fender, but I have the photos I posted earlier and I'll share the new wheel gap pics soon.

I was just busting your balls.

Lol I can't believe a siezed up little splined bolt defeated me

 

[TeeLew]

Lol I can't believe a siezed up little splined bolt defeated me

It seems like it was being a real bastard. I don't know if you were using a brass hammer, but that's what I use in those deals. The hammer face gets beat up, but the bolt is a lot harder than the hammer, so it doesn't. I don't know if that would have helped, but it's a thought.

I probably would have hit it with Kroil or some PB Blaster penetrating oil to try let it soak in to free it up. After that it would have been the blue wrench with MAP gas. You just have to make sure that you're not putting the heat into the damper. The puller is a really good idea, but I've never had one fight me that hard.

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