Yea just something to think about. Lol you’ll be surprised how quickly the clutch fluid can get dirty. It’s amount of engagement and not by miles. 1500 miles on highway….double clutching will produce more dirt than not double clutching. Not the end of the world though. People have had their car for almost 10 years since the platform has been out and haven’t done it. All options are valid.
Alright. So now I am confused - how changing the brake fluid goes in this case. Do I need to bleed the brakes and the clutch as well?
I remember reading a few years ago on this forum that there are people that do both if they are having a soft brake pedal or dead (doesn’t return all the way up) clutch pedal. But for the most part if doing a brake job just bleeding the brakes should be fine.
If the clutch and brakes are all supplied from one fluid reservoir, I would expect that the systems are connected. So I would expect that changing the (brake) fluid should affect the clutch. What is not clear to me is the way it does.
From what I’ve read before you are somewhat correct but it’s still 2 different systems. To bleed brakes, you apply pressure to the reservoir to push the air through the brake system and out the calipers bleed screw. To bleed the clutch master cylinder you apply a vacuum to suck the air from the reservoir. You are connecting to the same opening but removing the air differently.
Does divorcing the clutch fluid line from the brake reservoir improve the operation of the clutch at all?No problem! Pretty straight forward. Bought a brake reservoir from an auto car. The brake reservoirs come as an assembly with the master cylinder attached from ford. You can buy brand new or from a scrap yard. I bought 2 from Midway Mustang. Then you need a remote reservoir for the clutch. The popular one is the GM part for a 2008 GTO but is getting harder to find and cost more than necessary. I’ve seen others use Willwood options. Then you just need hose that can withstand brake fluid. Last is a mounting solution. Some have zip tied the remote reservoir to the brake reservoir but I wanted a hard mounted solution so a simple angle stock did the trick.
Also no need to replace the brake master cylinder. Just detach the reservoir from the master cylinder. When doing so, be mindful not to dry out or get air into the MC otherwise you’ll have to bleed it. Whole thing ”should” take less than an hour.
Here is my set up
Yeah that makes sense, mine is still the original fluid from 4 years ago. It does seem like any debris in the system slowly works its way to the cap area which is convenient.
It's corrosion from inside the lines. Suck out the dirt with a turkey baster, refill, and flush out your brake systemI had to hook my battery tender back up and decided to check fluids as weather will be breaking soon. As I looked into the reservoir for the master cylinder, I noticed a lot of black specks of debris. Anyone have an idea? Looks like I'll be taking back to the dealer once weather is decent.
