Best sway bar end links?

[galaxy]

I can’t find it, but someone in a 350 FB group broke a stock link. Looked bent and then snapped in half. I believe it because when we changed the links on my sons S197 car, one of his was bent pretty darn noticeable.

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[Strokerswild]

Moog steel endlinks have always been my go-to. With a 35mm Steeda swaybar and -4 deg camber they don't interfere with my Koni shocks.

I just received a pair this morning, and they're pretty sweet for $21/each. Have to be stouter than the flimsy OEM part, and they're greasable to boot. Win-win.

 

[TeeLew]

I just received a pair this morning, and they're pretty sweet for $21/each. Have to be stouter than the flimsy OEM part, and they're greasable to boot. Win-win.

Ahhhh, the patented Moog 'squeaker-joint'. They're strong, but they can be noisy. (I was a Moog summer intern in a former life)

 

[stungjoe]

Ahhhh, the patented Moog 'squeaker-joint'. They're strong, but they can be noisy. (I was a Moog summer intern in a former life)

Well they are greaseable so hopefully that will work.

I also got mine in today but they will have to wait till I get back from Tail of the Dragon.

 

[TeeLew]

Well they are greaseable so hopefully that will work.

I also got mine in today but they will have to wait till I get back from Tail of the Dragon.

Greasing helps. It's just something that nearly no one does.

 

[Chef jpd]

Damn, I haven't needed a grease gun in 20 years.
What's old is new again.

 

[Strokerswild]

When you have old cars in the mix, a grease gun is just part of the normal arsenal...

 

[galaxy]

Being able to zero the anti-roll bars while doing an alignment is a very worthwhile function. To your point, if a rod-end is making noise, it's time for a new rod-end.

T…can you expand on this a little? Thanks man!

And when these things get noisy and clunk around, is just that; noise? Or is there an actual enough movement to affect driving/performance that will lead to other issues?

That’s the one thing that has scared me away from literally any suspension mods or improvements on this car — I do not want any clunking and junking around.

 

[TeeLew]

T…can you expand on this a little? Thanks man!

And when these things get noisy and clunk around, is just that; noise? Or is there an actual enough movement to affect driving/performance that will lead to other issues?

That’s the one thing that has scared me away from literally any suspension mods or improvements on this car — I do not want any clunking and junking around.

What I was writing about was not a noise issue, but handling. If we're scaling the car to set corner weights and align the car, we disconnect the anti-roll bars. Once we've finished the scaling/alignment, we set the ARB drop link length so there is no preload (twist) in the anti-roll bar at rest. This can contribute to different handing characteristics side-to-side.

And don't be scared of any individual suspension change. They're all just compromises. The thing that significantly increases noise is driveline bushings. Springs, shocks, ARB's, any bracing and most suspension pivot upgrades generally just make things perform better without increasing harshness. If you don't like it; you can always change it back.

 

[galaxy]

we disconnect the anti-roll bars. Once we've finished the scaling/alignment, we set the ARB drop link length so there is no preload (twist) in the anti-roll bar at rest.

Are the bars on these bonded to the mounting bushings? If so, I assume that’s the “no preload” spot; where the bushing is holding the bar on its own? And then do end link adjustments to that point? Correct?

What would one do if they’re not bonded, because then the bar (with no end links connected) can just twist up and down at will. I’ve always heard to get the bar as level with the ground as possible and set the end links there.

 

[DougS550]

Hello David,

I see what transpired now that I see your email address & was able to search it. The email came in during normal business hours (to sales) - I forwarded your email to our sales team to follow up with the timing. That was at 5:34 p.m.

On Friday, . - you sent a follow-up to me after business hours (early a.m.). Again, after I send the initial email to our sales team - based on our workflow, they are responsible for following up.

I don't have the visibility into our inventory system as the sales team does - so, unfortunately, based on this request, I had to lean on them to provide that follow-up.

As mentioned, we are not "ignoring" emails - we have checks & balances when emails come in & when they are routed to the sales team, they work to communicate the follow-up to the customer.

This particulate situation took a couple of days longer to respond to as the email that came in on Saturday may not have been assigned to the sales representative on-site.

I apologize for not following up on this & will look into our processes to see how we can improve the line of communication.

TJ

Hi. So have we confirmed Steeda Sway Bar End links on a 19 GT PP1, Magneride will install without issue on OEM Sway Bars?

 

[TeeLew]

Are the bars on these bonded to the mounting bushings? If so, I assume that’s the “no preload” spot; where the bushing is holding the bar on its own? And then do end link adjustments to that point? Correct?

What would one do if they’re not bonded, because then the bar (with no end links connected) can just twist up and down at will. I’ve always heard to get the bar as level with the ground as possible and set the end links there.

Yep, you've got it. With the bonded ARB, just find the spot where the bar rests naturally. For the unbonded bar, set one side so the bar lever arm is perpendicular to the ground at loaded ride height. Then, after alignment/setup you reconnect the ARB drop link with the length set so the bolt just drops in.

 

[DougS550]

Yep, you've got it. With the bonded ARB, just find the spot where the bar rests naturally. For the unbonded bar, set one side so the bar lever arm is perpendicular to the ground at loaded ride height. Then, after alignment/setup you reconnect the ARB drop link with the length set so the bolt just drops in.

Question, How do you obtain static neutral sway bar pressure with car on jacks?

 

[galaxy]

Question, How do you obtain static neutral sway bar pressure with car on jacks?

I’ve got the raceramp wheel blocks. Jack the car up and let the car down on these. Now you have full, normal, weight on wheels and can crawl under the car to do anything. It’s the perfect, and best solution. I don’t remember them being too expensive either.

 

[TeeLew]

Question, How do you obtain static neutral sway bar pressure with car on jacks?

You don't. It has to be on the ground with fuel and driver weight.

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