What are some common pain points on cars that see track duty?

[The Chairman]

Interesting thread wit some really good responses.

It’s been discussed and a known pain point on this site that the S550 factory hub bearings are garbage. This is from the initial S550 rollout in 2015 up through as current as the past 2-3 years of production. Some M6G members have spoke of having hub bearings replaced 1, 2, and even 3x under warranty. Even with that said, the interval for replacement is all over the place with M6G members having to replace within 2k-5k miles, to being within 15k, or even approaching 20k-30k…

With that said - do any of you who track more than 50% of vehicle ownership use Ford replacement hubs (Mtorocraft or Ford Performance), or are your sourcing Non-Ford parts for replacement?

Has anyone confirmed which brand (manufacturer) Ford sourced for the factory hub bearings - is it SKF, TIMKEN, NSK, Delco, MOOG, FAG, Crown, FSK, KOYO, NTN, IKF or . . .?

Usually on the back side of the hub, the bearing race will have the manufacturer name or initials stamped into it.

Interesting. I’ve never seen nor heard of a hub bearing failure on a GT350 or GT500, and I track them all the time.
On the other hand, my ‘99 Mustang Cobra hubs failed after a year or two of use.

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[Cobra Jet]

Interesting. I’ve never seen nor heard of a hub bearing failure on a GT350 or GT500, and I track them all the time.
On the other hand, my ‘99 Mustang Cobra hubs failed after a year or two of use.

Here’s one example of a few GT350’s on this site (plus an abundance of GT/EB’s in the orher sub-forums):
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...while-turning-right.90653/page-3#post-2976794

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...while-turning-right.90653/page-2#post-2974092

 

[pilotgore]

Interesting thread wit some really good responses.

It’s been discussed and a known pain point on this site that the S550 factory hub bearings are garbage. This is from the initial S550 rollout in 2015 up through as current as the past 2-3 years of production. Some M6G members have spoke of having hub bearings replaced 1, 2, and even 3x under warranty. Even with that said, the interval for replacement is all over the place with M6G members having to replace within 2k-5k miles, to being within 15k, or even approaching 20k-30k…

With that said - do any of you who track more than 50% of vehicle ownership use Ford replacement hubs (Motorcraft or Ford Performance), or are your sourcing Non-Ford parts for replacement?

Has anyone confirmed which brand (manufacturer) Ford sourced for the factory hub bearings - is it SKF, TIMKEN, NSK, Delco, MOOG, FAG, Crown, FSK, KOYO, NTN, IKF or . . .?

Usually on the back side of the hub, the bearing race will have the manufacturer name or initials stamped into it.

My rear wheel bearing was replaced at the dealership under warranty. Since I’m still under warranty for another 6+ years, I don’t really see me seeking out a beefier solution for the time being.

 

[bnightstar]

My rear wheel bearing was replaced at the dealership under warranty. Since I’m still under warranty for another 6+ years, I don’t really see me seeking out a beefier solution for the time being.

It gets old really fast when you need to replace and deal with the noise this is creating after every 2-3 days at the track. Overall not a nice experience and very poorly designed part. Changing lug nuts to something better than OEM should really help with the issue.

 

[GTP]

... Changing lug nuts to something better than OEM should really help with the issue.

How?

 

[bnightstar]

How?

my understanding is that the lug nuts back out when on track which cause the wheel hub nut to back out as well. So if you have lug nuts that don't do this the wheel hub should be safe.

 

[jmn444]

my understanding is that the lug nuts back out when on track which cause the wheel hub nut to back out as well. So if you have lug nuts that don't do this the wheel hub should be safe.

I don't believe the reason for changing lug nuts is to prevent them from backing out, any nut properly torqued is going to stay put. it's the repeated use with the outer shell deforming that is the issue that makes it tough to get a socket on them.

I've had two pass side rear hubs fail so far in 14k miles.

 

[bnightstar]

I don't believe the reason for changing lug nuts is to prevent them from backing out, any nut properly torqued is going to stay put. it's the repeated use with the outer shell deforming that is the issue that makes it tough to get a socket on them.

I've had two pass side rear hubs fail so far in 14k miles.

I don't think they stay put but that's just me ;) Also I think I have 4 left rear wheel hub replaced and a rear left halfshaft because of cv joints. But I'm on a regular GT.

 

[jmn444]

I don't think they stay put but that's just me ;) Also I think I have 4 left rear wheel hub replaced and a rear left halfshaft because of cv joints. But I'm on a regular GT.

i think rear hubs are the same on all our cars though, so makes sense it's a common failure point. Guessing oem lug nuts are the same as well.

I don't think I've had oem nuts on since day one though as I wanted black ones immediately, but still had the failures and had the axle nut come loose once too. I suspect that was dealer not properly torqueing it, but no clue really.

 

[bnightstar]

i think rear hubs are the same on all our cars though, so makes sense it's a common failure point. Guessing oem lug nuts are the same as well.

I don't think I've had oem nuts on since day one though as I wanted black ones immediately, but still had the failures and had the axle nut come loose once too. I suspect that was dealer not properly torqueing it, but no clue really.

So the question still remain if some of the after market Wheel Hubs works. Also lot's of time you may have bad CV Joints but not know it which are causing this mine started showing symptoms of that as well hanse why I changed the Halfshaft. Also it's always the rear left never the rear right.

 

[GTP]

i think rear hubs are the same on all our cars though, so makes sense it's a common failure point. Guessing oem lug nuts are the same as well.

I don't think I've had oem nuts on since day one though as I wanted black ones immediately, but still had the failures and had the axle nut come loose once too. I suspect that was dealer not properly torqueing it, but no clue really.

What was the evidence or clue that the axle nut was loose?

 

[Rapid Red]

Semms ovco

I just got around to the oil change after shooting my oil plug out of the oil pan on track. One of the tabs in the opening of the oil pan was completely sheered off, and the other looks like half is sheered off. What’s incredibly scary is that I ran another few sessions like that. . .

With the plug reinserted, I can pull the plug straight out by pulling pretty hard. Looks like a flatbed to the dealer and a new oil pan is in my future.

Fun times.

The so_called plug upgrade is metal, YES ?

Oil pan plastic, could it be possible, as with dissimilar metals mated not a good idea?

Could a plastic & a metal Bayonet Fitting type of clamping not so great ?

Given the loads of an extreme environment. A dissimilar harmonic frequency of the two, the stronger (metal) shatters the weaker oil pan clamp point ?

 

[jmn444]

So the question still remain if some of the after market Wheel Hubs works. Also lot's of time you may have bad CV Joints but not know it which are causing this mine started showing symptoms of that as well hanse why I changed the Halfshaft. Also it's always the rear left never the rear right.

yeah, i'm under warranty so letting ford eat the cost currently.

 

[jmn444]

What was the evidence or clue that the axle nut was loose?

I check them when swapping wheels occasionally since it's a known issue.

 

[pbrmeasap]

I just got around to the oil change after shooting my oil plug out of the oil pan on track. One of the tabs in the opening of the oil pan was completely sheered off, and the other looks like half is sheered off. What’s incredibly scary is that I ran another few sessions like that. . .

With the plug reinserted, I can pull the plug straight out by pulling pretty hard. Looks like a flatbed to the dealer and a new oil pan is in my future.

Fun times.

I had the same problem while on a track day. A close inspection of the composite oil pan found that the plastic tabs on the inside of the pain were completely missing. I could feel where the plastic was a bit rough in the areas where they were supposed to be located. Only conclusion is that the pan was originally defective as it would not be possible to over tighten a drain plug (plastic or metal) - due to the outside tabs preventing. Note that the outside tabs were intact - so nothing to alert to the problem with the inside tabs.

As a safety check, I would recommend at each oil change to check that the inside tabs are intact. Then, after installing the drain plug, try and pull the plug straight out of the pan. In my case, we found that the plastic plug could be pulled straight out with moderate effort. This was clearly due to the inside tabs not being in place as they serve to secure the plug in the pan. The outside tabs only serve to prevent over tightening.

I spoke to another GT350 owner who reported that his dealer installed a brass drain insert into his composite plan that better secures the plug. Was not able to find a tsb related to this but clearly there should be an inspection bulletin of some sort.

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