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What are some common pain points on cars that see track duty?

jmn444

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I've had an axle nut come loose. The car got darty because the wheel was no longer held rigidly to the car. The axle nut is what clamps the rear hub into position against the rear upright. I jacked up the car and I could wiggle the tire - it had some slop in it.



If the nut turns at all when you check it, then that nut will come loose later. The nuts are one time use. The nut that I had come loose - it did it because I re-used a nut rather than replacing with new. I thought using loctite and torquing properly would make the nut stay in position, but it didn't.

I would recommend checking by trying to wiggle the wheel when the car is jacked up rather than touching that nut.
I checked it with a breaker bar, it moved with minimal effort. re-torqued it, did a track weekend, hub went bad, and had dealer replace both items.
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Hack

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I checked it with a breaker bar, it moved with minimal effort. re-torqued it, did a track weekend, hub went bad, and had dealer replace both items.
Glad you caught it before your track weekend. It would have been annoying to have it come loose at the track - and potentially dangerous.
 

The Chairman

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The axle nut is what clamps the rear hub into position against the rear upright.
To clarify: The axle nut clamps the outer part of the half shaft to the inner race of the hub bearing (to include the component that holds the wheel). The outer race of the hub bearing is bolted solidly to the upright.
https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/transmission/powertrain-engine-parts/hub-assy-wheel-6586217-1
You should be able to remove the axle nut and the wheel remains on the hub and works normally. Any slop is a bad bearing or a lose upright mounting point.
 

jmn444

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To clarify: The axle nut clamps the outer part of the half shaft to the inner race of the hub bearing (to include the component that holds the wheel). The outer race of the hub bearing is bolted solidly to the upright.
https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/transmission/powertrain-engine-parts/hub-assy-wheel-6586217-1
You should be able to remove the axle nut and the wheel remains on the hub and works normally. Any slop is a bad bearing or a lose upright mounting point.
I almost questioned that comment, i could see the loose nut causing the bearing to fail early, but agree with your assessment.
 

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ICU812

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Starter solenoid usually fails due to the the header on the right-side creating high heats temps from track driving. I encourage a DEI Heatshield as a preventive in hopes it extends the life of the starter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E283QC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also allows you to cut to fitment as well too
I add a small duct to force air at starter while moving, it doesn't help when vehicle is stopped or off, (heat soak) but keeps from cooking the crap out of the starter.
Last vehicle I did this to I used alum. sheet/duct, it was 0.83 of a pound .
 

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Got to ask... is the wheel hub that's going bad for everyone the passenger rear left side?
It is for me (I think I'm on my 3rd one) and for most others I guess.
 

NoXiDe

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me too, but left side is driver side, so this is confusing haha... rear left driver side is what has failed on mine 2x's
I could have explained it better but little tired that evening.

so what gives!?!My buddy has the same issue as well too and mines in the shop for the same issue.

is this a poor design? How is it any different than the right side? Iā€™m surprised no one has dove deep into the woods yet regarding this issue.
 

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bnightstar

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I could have explained it better but little tired that evening.

so what gives!?!My buddy has the same issue as well too and mines in the shop for the same issue.

is this a poor design? How is it any different than the right side? Iā€™m surprised no one has dove deep into the woods yet regarding this issue.
for starters the left half-shaft is smaller than the right one. This is kind of the same reason why when the car slides it always slides the backend to the right. Because there is difference in half-shafts sizes. I'm guessing this is designed like that for some safety reason.
 

Jeffwels

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I'll add a new one. TPMS sensor. I had a TPMS sensor break off the valve stem in the rear on track. The TPMS remained functional, but a PITA nonetheless.
 

Rob-17GT350

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I could have explained it better but little tired that evening.

so what gives!?!My buddy has the same issue as well too and mines in the shop for the same issue.

is this a poor design? How is it any different than the right side? Iā€™m surprised no one has dove deep into the woods yet regarding this issue.
If tracking, most tracks have more right handers than left because clockwise direction. This puts more load into the left rear wheel bearing compared to right for same miles run.
 

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for starters the left half-shaft is smaller than the right one. This is kind of the same reason why when the car slides it always slides the backend to the right. Because there is difference in half-shafts sizes. I'm guessing this is designed like that for some safety reason.
The half shafts are different sizes to help minimize torque-induced harmonics. Most IRS vehicles are set up this way.
 

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To clarify: The axle nut clamps the outer part of the half shaft to the inner race of the hub bearing (to include the component that holds the wheel). The outer race of the hub bearing is bolted solidly to the upright.
https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/transmission/powertrain-engine-parts/hub-assy-wheel-6586217-1
You should be able to remove the axle nut and the wheel remains on the hub and works normally. Any slop is a bad bearing or a lose upright mounting point.
What you are saying makes sense. The slop I noticed must have been the slop in the bearing.

I know that I installed a new nut and the slop in the wheel went away and the car worked fine for 10,000+ miles including track miles and over a year of driving afterwards prior to me selling it. I'm not sure why that is. Something was loose that allowed the wheel to move and when the new nut was installed and torqued it fixed the problem. I had no bearing noises either before or after.
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