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Disturbing experience changing my oil.

Hack

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Tell that to my old Boss.

RP paid for a lot of industrial gear boxes when their crappy oil didn't hold up.
This pegs my bs-ometer. What is it about RP oil that you think is crappy? Is there a crap molecule in between the Cs and Hs in RP oil? Did they lie about the oil specification that is met by their product?
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They came into our steel plant and said their oil would last longer than the current stuff. They gave a guarantee that if any oil related damage happened they would cover repairs.

These gear boxes were hooked to 300 HP electric motors and the gear boxes started to fail after a few months.

We went back to the Chevron oil.
 
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"I switched to 0w-20 Royal Purple"

I am no expert but I can read.... see if this helps

Reference owner manual

Screen Shot 2021-04-24 at 8.59.19 AM.png
For the 2018 it''s this one

oil.webp
 
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Hello; Question for the OP. How did you come up with the oil spec of 0w20 for your engine?
Number one, the oil cap, and B - the owners manual
 
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What motor?

our cars recommended to use 5-20, but I've used PUP 5-30 since I changed out the factory fill.
That is what I am in the process of ordering for my car as well, the PUP. This will be its first oil change since factory fill as well.
 

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Tell that to my old Boss.

RP paid for a lot of industrial gear boxes when their crappy oil didn't hold up.
I watched the bearing spin wear test of RP vs PP and it was significantly higher on the RP bearing. I done learned my lesson about RP. Crapola.
 

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*WARNING - Unpopular opinion*
Oil is oil. As long as you meet the weight and API spec they are generally the same. Some may go above and beyond the spec to delay breakdown, increase heat transfer, etc. but the differences are going to be minimal, especially in a street driven door slammer. The whole notion that one is a magical fluid that will protect you from any and all woes while the rest are garbage waiting to destroy your motor is marketing crap. They all get refined the same way from the same hydrocarbon chains extracted from the ground.
 
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*WARNING - Unpopular opinion*
Oil is oil. As long as you meet the weight and API spec they are generally the same. Some may go above and beyond the spec to delay breakdown, increase heat transfer, etc. but the differences are going to be minimal, especially in a street driven door slammer. The whole notion that one is a magical fluid that will protect you from any and all woes while the rest are garbage waiting to destroy your motor is marketing crap. They all get refined the same way from the same hydrocarbon chains extracted from the ground.
I now "used" to think this too. Done my own oil changes for 30 years, never had an experience like this. Not all oil is created equal because of a stamp on the outside of a plastic bottle.
 

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Correct, it is the additive pack that makes one better than another. The Boron in the chevron oil is what makes it a great gear oil.

I think it is Boron, been awhile since I looked at oil add packs.
 
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Correct, it is the additive pack that makes one better than another. The Boron in the chevron oil is what makes it a great gear oil.

I think it is Boron, been awhile since I looked at oil add packs.
And it seems most manufacturers recommend NOT using oil with extra additives, at least with car engines. They always have a disclaimer about that in the manual how it may void your warranty.
 

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Correct, it is the additive pack that makes one better than another. The Boron in the chevron oil is what makes it a great gear oil.

I think it is Boron, been awhile since I looked at oil add packs.
You are correct...I think. It's been awhile and I never got too much of a handle on it because it was kinda boring. All lubrication oils have additive packages with different manufacturers altering the "secret recipe" but the additives are the same industry wide. I think one of the boron substances altered film properties which affect the oils adhesion to a surface which would be important for a gear oil.
 

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Correct, it is the additive pack that makes one better than another. The Boron in the chevron oil is what makes it a great gear oil.

I think it is Boron, been awhile since I looked at oil add packs.
Makes sense to me that an additive could help reduce wear, but I'm surprised it made such a big difference in that application.
 

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For the 2018 it''s this one

oil.webp
Sorry had 2012 in mind, will take the appropriate time out, be over in the corner . :computerrage:

Just a side note, another fuction of the oil is cooling, smelling burnt oil, might consider 0W-30 ?
 
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Sorry had 2012 in mind, will take the appropriate time out, be over in the corner . :computerrage:

Just a side note, another fuction of the oil is cooling, smelling burnt oil, might consider 0W-30 ?
My neighbor up the road a ways is a professional mechanic and I asked him about the recent thin oils the manufacturers are recommending, he said it can be a couple things: 1. To squeeze every last bit of gas mileage out of the engine they can for advertising. 2. The engine could in fact have such tight tolerances that in order for the oil to properly flow throughout the engine it actually needs a thinner oil. 3. Just use what the manufacturer states, can't ever go wrong with that. I am going to check the oil out after a couple hundred miles with the PP and the Wix XP on it and see if I can smell any burning, if so I have bigger problems at hand.
 

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I have also read that MPG was in play, but that's something I don't think about. The 0W for GA seems odd, usually it's for long colder temps. We get low but never for an extended length of time.

You tow anything on a regular basis ? While I do agree with the book. Am getting ready to jump the viscosity for the Mustang. Next oil change coming due.

That's a odd problem you have going there.
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