Purged

[shogun32]

the Steeda clutch spring has zilch effect on the pressure on the clutch. What it does is allow you to feel when the pedal stroke changes from 'air' (ie compressing spring, piston hasn't moved a millimeter) to when you're actually pushing on the hydraulic piston. The Ford spring is so heavy you can't tell when you're pushing on dead air vs pushing on the piston - it all feels the same.

The friction bite point is the same with either spring except that with the Steeda you feel the hydraulic pressure feedback vs the heavier Ford spring's feedback. With the Steeda you can feel when the piston is back to position zero and now you're releasing 'dead air' (light effort) vs the Ford spring where you have no idea if the clutch is actually out until your foot comes off the pedal.

Ford spring is absolutely retarded and the moron who proposed it needs to be beaten with the shattered remains of the brake pedal assembly and never allowed near a manual car again.

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[ice445]

Only issues with the spring ive heard are that the clutch pedal won't return to the full top of its resting position. But in theory it should have 100% zero effect on the actual clutch operation, because the spring is always pushing against the hydraulics to assist you, not to assist the clutch. Given the steeda spring is lighter with less force being applied against the hydraulic slave cylinder, if anything the factory spring would cause more wear. I think some people just have bad technique and look for excuses.

 

[shogun32]

the reason 'we' like the Steeda spring is we can intuitively feel the moment we're applying pressure to the hydraulic cylinder. When shifting quickly or well, all you need is have just enough pressure in the system to let the plates slip enough to unload the shafts so you can make the shift.

So with enough practice you can train your leg to move 1/4" (or whatever) past the hydraulic activation point instead of pushing in multiple inches, or into the floor. With the Ford spring you have no idea where that air vs hydraulic point is and since you're also fighting a much stiffer spring it's hard to get any kind of precision out of "am I at that release point or not"? It's much easier to regulate pressure when the system is fighting you with less (pure hydraulics) vs Ford spring.

The other aspect to this is with the Ford spring the hydraulic activation point is MUCH higher (aka earlier) in the stroke where precision is well neigh impossible. With the Steeda the leg is in a more natural position and subject to better control over modulation.

PS. Nobody is saying you have to love the Steeda setup, just that we're right and you're wrong.

PPS. the #22 Multimatic Mustang in IMSA runs a sequential transmission so clutch activation is irrelevant.

 

[WD Pro]

How does the spring alter the actuation point ?

WD

 

[shogun32]

The Steeda spring rate is below the hydraulic piston threshold and thus doesn't have any influence whatsoever even when fully compressed. Once you compress the Ford spring X mm the imparted force is sufficient to exceed the hydraulic force and thus starts to move the piston.

 

[WD Pro]

Still not with it sorry. The spring only influences pedal pressure - how does the piston know if that pressure is coming from the spring or your leg ?

Surely the same pedal position = same piston position, regardless of what spring is used ?

WD

 

[WD Pro]

I think what they are getting at is that YOU can feel the activation point better. I personally have always used the tach to inform my leg position, then muscle memory from there.

Yeah I get that - I have the spring and noticed a little difference

What I don't get are the comments about it shifting the actuation point and your leg being in a different position etc

"The other aspect to this is with the Ford spring the hydraulic activation point is MUCH higher (aka earlier) in the stroke where precision is well neigh impossible. With the Steeda the leg is in a more natural position and subject to better control over modulation."

WD

 

[Stang55]

Airaid Intake Spacer for a smoother throttle response, cost is under 200 dollars

 

[Bullitt0819]

Couple of things:

1) I read somewhere--probably on this forum--that Ford used the stronger spring to mitigate some issue with the Getrag piece of crap (though mine hasn't given me any problems, yet). Sorry, don't remember exactly what the issue was, but it was something about the clutch not disengaging completely; maybe someone here knows the reason? Some improvements were allegedly made to the gearbox in the last few years (starting with '18 models, maybe). No one here, that I know of, has expressed any wear or other issues with the Steeda spring (again, yet).

2) My '08 Bullitt's manual expressly stated something to the effect of "The clutch pedal MUST be pushed all the way to the floor (emphasis mine)." I've read that elsewhere, for other cars, as well; I've never found the reasoning, other than the obvious: you'll grind the crap out of your gears if the clutch isn't completely disengaged (or you're a really good 'speed-shifter'). Maybe the throwout bearing travel takes a set? Anyone know the real reasoning?

You can make the argument (speculate) that putting any pressure at all on the release bearing when not shifting is not a good thing, but since the clutch doesn't even start to disengage until about one-third pedal travel or more I doubt it's a big deal. I suppose if the release bearing was dragging on the cover plate at all it might wear the bearing faster. I checked my Bullitt, the Steeda spring is strong enough to pull the clutch pedal all the way back to disengaged position, with a half-inch or so of travel before the cover plate starts to offer any resistance.

Side note: My Austin-Healeys use external slave cylinders that pivot a release (Brit term) 'bearing.' This 'bearing' is a graphite donut, and any residual pressure and friction at all causes them to wear prematurely. For this--and other reasons--I've developed the habit of shifting into neutral any time I'm going to be stationary for more than a few seconds.

 

[vanquishvzla]

a good set of stickers also make you go faster for less than $500...

 

[vanquishvzla]

Don't forget stripes. It also doesn't matter how much you spend on the stripes. The GT500 painted stripe option is just silly. It doesn't add amy more power than the vinyls.

yeah but i don't think that is what he wants... those stripes are more track focused... the door stickers are better for street use and occasional drag races...

 

[RPDBlueMoon]

I saw this on someone's Mustang the other day and I thought it looked really cool. I'd put this on if I had a GT

 

[Adamone92]

I saw this on someone's Mustang the other day and I thought it looked really cool. I'd put this on if I had a GT

i actually have this, except its black and lime green. I got it to match the lime green brakes and the lime green period in 5.0 on my side badges. I think its a nice subtle addition and pretty cheap.

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