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mikes2017gt

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Was a busy family weekend, and I only had a few hours today to work on it, but I made progress.

Power cable is run to the back. Zip-tied to factory loom. I just noticed that I missed a spot with the Tessa tape. Sloppy-ass work! ;)
IMG_20201013_135348840 (Large).jpg


Based on how I'm running my wiring and trying to keep power cables away from signal cables, I decided to drop it down into the spare tire well here. My old 4-gauge was run this way too, but it was thinner, obviously. I'm not worried about the cable being damaged here. I threw cases of water in my trunk all the time and never had a problem w/the 4-ga in this location. The trunk floor sits on top of this, and it's padded underneath anyway. Cable will be A-OK.
IMG_20201013_142326471 (Large).jpg


I ran it around the well with zip tie bases. The white wire is the speaker wire going to the Stealthbox.
IMG_20201013_142438200 (Large).jpg


Got the ground cable installed. Was going to go with the spare tire hold down, but discovered that the height of the ring terminal + washers + bolt was too high and hitting the underside of the amp rack. I could dish out the bottom of the rack and will if this doesn't work. This is a factory ground point. Note the paint is ground off. There is a 1/4" steel washer and split-washer under the head of the factory bolt. It's on there solidly and the ring terminal is nice and flush on the panel. The sheet metal is a little thin for my liking, but it's a factory ground point and others have used it successfully, so I'll give it a shot.
IMG_20201013_150053437 (Large).jpg

IMG_20201013_150107263 (Large).jpg


Power and ground will come up through the amp rack right about where the two cables cross in this pic.
IMG_20201013_150112768 (Large).jpg


As I had to put the amp rack in the well anyway to make sure my power/ground cables were run out of it's way, I couldn't resist snapping a pic. First time the completed rack has ever actually been in the car! The covers are not on the amps in this pic. They're safely stored away for now.
IMG_20201013_142332120 (Large).jpg


I also got the tweeter wire run from the passenger side to the driver's side. This was a PITA. The carpet seems to have been installed before the dashboard was b/c the carpet runs under the dash/on top of the tranny tunnel and you can't get under it. I tried. But the wire is run, duct-taped down and out of harm's way. Also put the side panels back on the console, so that's completely back together.
IMG_20201013_153537625 (Large).jpg


If things go as planned, tomorrow I'll finally hear all this stuff make some noise. I have to solder the tweeter leads to the tweeter speaker harness, and then just run signal and speaker wires to the trunk. To say I'm anxious is an understatement. This build has been in the works for a lot longer than I'll admit.

I'm debating removing the factory amp, but probably will. I've got two big speaker harnesses and the RCAs that I'll have to ensure are well-secured and out of the way. Removing the amp should give me some more room and hopefully free up a few tie-down points for zip ties. Even with the driver's kick panel removed, it's still really difficult to see up there where the amp is.

I was looking at the pile of interior panels and started thinking "Do I remember what goes back in first?" Not sure I do but I'll figure it out. LOL!
IMG_20201008_145512764 (Large).jpg
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@mikes2017gt This build is coming along nice, wish I had the patience and tools to do everything you've done. I have a question, what did you use to remove the hood release and also how did you remove the drivers side kick panel. I read that you can use a 10mm to remove the handle but that didn't work for me. Once again great job.
 
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@mikes2017gt This build is coming along nice, wish I had the patience and tools to do everything you've done. I have a question, what did you use to remove the hood release and also how did you remove the drivers side kick panel. I read that you can use a 10mm to remove the handle but that didn't work for me. Once again great job.
Thanks very much! The only reason my build can take this long is b/c we are a 2-car family and I work from home. My car has been disassembled for 2 weeks now. I did bolt the driver's seat back in for an errand that had to happen...it was weird (and loud) driving inside a gutted car.

But to your question: You can use a 10mm deep socket and push/twist it in the hole inside the release handle while wiggling the hood release handle with the other hand. Much like the door handle cable release on the door panel, there are 2 tabs on the rotating hood release mechanism that hold the handle in place. Both need to be depressed in order for the handle to come off. You can also use a small flathead screwdriver. Check this video. That's how I learned how to do it.

Right at 1:35


The driver's side kick panel pops right off just like the passenger side once you've removed the hood release. I didn't understand the relationship at first. What would the hood release have to do with removing an interior trim panel, right? Well in our car, everything apparently. :headbang:

As an aside: I understand the frustration of not having the right tools or the tools I need just for some "one time" task. I was there back in the 1990's when I started getting into car audio.

The tools I have are the end result of 25+ years of buying/collecting tools. Some of my tools are brand new and others are early-1970's relics, but they still work. If I had to classify myself, I would say I'm an 85% electronics hobbyist and 15% woodworking hobbyist.

With car audio, there's a lot of overlap there. Which is how I wound up with a router table so I can make speaker rings, etc. Only had that 2 years, BTW. I actually would like to do more woodworking projects, but I find that when i start one, some electronics project gets in the way and I wind up shelving the woodworking project. Sometimes I build birdhouses that birds don't want to live in. Not a whole lot of woodworking skills, but in my mind I'm building the Trump Tower of birdhouses! Damn ungrateful birds!
 
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Was a busy family weekend, and I only had a few hours today to work on it, but I made progress.

Power cable is run to the back. Zip-tied to factory loom. I just noticed that I missed a spot with the Tessa tape. Sloppy-ass work! ;)
IMG_20201013_135348840 (Large).jpg


Based on how I'm running my wiring and trying to keep power cables away from signal cables, I decided to drop it down into the spare tire well here. My old 4-gauge was run this way too, but it was thinner, obviously. I'm not worried about the cable being damaged here. I threw cases of water in my trunk all the time and never had a problem w/the 4-ga in this location. The trunk floor sits on top of this, and it's padded underneath anyway. Cable will be A-OK.
IMG_20201013_142326471 (Large).jpg


I ran it around the well with zip tie bases. The white wire is the speaker wire going to the Stealthbox.
IMG_20201013_142438200 (Large).jpg


Got the ground cable installed. Was going to go with the spare tire hold down, but discovered that the height of the ring terminal + washers + bolt was too high and hitting the underside of the amp rack. I could dish out the bottom of the rack and will if this doesn't work. This is a factory ground point. Note the paint is ground off. There is a 1/4" steel washer and split-washer under the head of the factory bolt. It's on there solidly and the ring terminal is nice and flush on the panel. The sheet metal is a little thin for my liking, but it's a factory ground point and others have used it successfully, so I'll give it a shot.
IMG_20201013_150053437 (Large).jpg

IMG_20201013_150107263 (Large).jpg


Power and ground will come up through the amp rack right about where the two cables cross in this pic.
IMG_20201013_150112768 (Large).jpg


As I had to put the amp rack in the well anyway to make sure my power/ground cables were run out of it's way, I couldn't resist snapping a pic. First time the completed rack has ever actually been in the car! The covers are not on the amps in this pic. They're safely stored away for now.
IMG_20201013_142332120 (Large).jpg


I also got the tweeter wire run from the passenger side to the driver's side. This was a PITA. The carpet seems to have been installed before the dashboard was b/c the carpet runs under the dash/on top of the tranny tunnel and you can't get under it. I tried. But the wire is run, duct-taped down and out of harm's way. Also put the side panels back on the console, so that's completely back together.
IMG_20201013_153537625 (Large).jpg


If things go as planned, tomorrow I'll finally hear all this stuff make some noise. I have to solder the tweeter leads to the tweeter speaker harness, and then just run signal and speaker wires to the trunk. To say I'm anxious is an understatement. This build has been in the works for a lot longer than I'll admit.

I'm debating removing the factory amp, but probably will. I've got two big speaker harnesses and the RCAs that I'll have to ensure are well-secured and out of the way. Removing the amp should give me some more room and hopefully free up a few tie-down points for zip ties. Even with the driver's kick panel removed, it's still really difficult to see up there where the amp is.

I was looking at the pile of interior panels and started thinking "Do I remember what goes back in first?" Not sure I do but I'll figure it out. LOL!
IMG_20201008_145512764 (Large).jpg
Again, amazing work! I really like this build. That amp rack is drool worthy for an audio nerd like me. I like how you laid it out. Looks like a "tower of power". :rockon:

Did you consider covering the Dynamat in the spare tire area with carpet? You've gone to great lengths to make it look this good I think you should do that. Your power wire can go over the carpet. When you lift up your floor it will look 100% finished.

I had the same fear as you on putting it all back together. I took pictures of all the attachment points so I knew where to apply pressure during re-assembly. Those huge rear interior quarter trim panels have to go in first. The door sills go on last. It will all fall into place.
 
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Thanks, @StangTime !! Appreciate the compliments. I put a lot of thought into the amp rack; how it's laid out and the underside that nobody will ever see took a lot of time.

I hadn't thought about carpeting the tire well, and it would look nice. But it's not in the cards for this build.

What I would like to do is make a beauty panel to cover everything up and have plexiglass viewing windows to see the amps. All you'd see is the amps and some nice, bright amp rack around it. Wouldn't see the Dynamat.

I'd put some LED lights tied into the trunk light to light it up from underneath. But, as the beauty panel would also be the floor of the trunk, I'm not sure if it's possible. Also, what would define the outer perimeter of said panel? If it just sat in the tire well, that would look dorky. I could make a whole new trunk floor out of 1/4" MDF but then it might not fit into the trunk opening. It would have to be two pieces; a center panel that covers the amps and has the windows and then a left wing. Don't need a right side as the Stealthbox is there. As you can see, I fall down the Rabbit Hole very easily. LOL!

Those huge rear panels are a huge pain! They clip in at all sorts of angles. That will be fun. I may just go through with the beauty panel thing. Looking at this pic, I'd just need to make the center piece.
IMG_20170319_132335382_HDR (Large).jpg


I have this trunk mat that covers everything and it would protect said beauty panel. Hmmmmm.
trunk mat.JPG
 

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Looks like I'll have to wait until tomorrow to revel in sweet mobile audio bliss. But I did get all the wires run today.

It looks like I won't need to remove the factory amp. Here are the Molex plugs just folded up into that space. The black plug is zip tied down, the brown and gray aren't, but they're really not going anywhere. The kick panel will keep them there. I may see if I can get a zip tie or two on there but I really don't think it's necessary. I double checked and the kick panel will go back on just fine.
IMG_20201014_174904940 (Large).jpg


Another shot of it. After connecting the RCAs to the RCA pigtail on the Molex, I ran several turns of Tessa tape over them to ensure they don't come apart.
IMG_20201014_174913552 (Large).jpg


Everything runs under the carpet. If you look closely you can see I ran one small harness under the metal brace the seat bolts to. It has holes in it just big enough to get those two pieces of 14ga wire through. That's actually the separate wiring harness I made for the tweets. Running it through there helps keep "the wire bulge" down.
IMG_20201014_174921800 (Large).jpg


From there they follow the factory wiring harness. They come up from under the carpet right before the seat belt and run behind it. There are multiple harnesses, but what you're looking at is:
  1. One pair of RCAs
  2. Turn on wire
  3. Cable for DRC-205 remote
  4. Six strands of 14ga speaker wire
IMG_20201014_174946441 (Large).jpg

IMG_20201014_174956378 (Large).jpg


Onwards to the trunk. I used zip tie bases along this path. My Spidey Sense kicked in and I thought it would be wise to double check that both the seat back and the seat itself clear all these wires and they do. See the clearance b/t the wires and the upright, black bolt that the seat attaches to? I took great pains to keep that gap as large as possible. I put the seat in place and the bracket still has 1/4" of clearance. I'm good. :sunglasses:
IMG_20201014_174958992 (Large).jpg


Wires tuck down into the the lower part of the driver's side rear fender. This is also where I coiled up the excess RCA and JL remote wire length. The trim piece that goes here doesn't extend down into the area where the wires are, it just goes "straight in." On a related note: If JL Audio made a driver's side Stealth Box, this area would already be filled. I've asked them twice about it over the years and it's always a "Nope, no plans to do that." There's easily half a dozen zip tie bases in this pic, though you really can't see them. I love those things.
IMG_20201014_175011815 (Large).jpg


And here's the spaghetti monster waiting for me to finish this build. I have a lot of excess wire to cut off, but that's way better than having the opposite problem. In hindsight, I should've made "quick disconnects"...Molex plug type connections for all these wires. That way I could've totally pre-wired the amp rack, dropped it in and connected a few plugs. Oh well. Mental note for next time.
IMG_20201014_175023310 (Large).jpg


I have the RCAs and JL remote wires zip tied down already. They are both running to the same place. I need to put that back cover panel that goes over the trunk latch on, so I can see the best way to run the rest of the mess. Need to ensure the wires won't get pinched.

I stopped here b/c I want to be fresh and awake when I'm wiring up the amp rack. I need to set the gains on the amps and you do that without any speakers attached. I might've forgotten that detail if I just pushed on through tonight. It's taken this long to do this right, so I'm not going to screw it up now.

Tomorrow is the day! I'm not putting a single interior panel back until I've verified I've got sound from every driver and no engine noise. The RCAs were run with the utmost of care to keep them away from as many factory wires as possible, but it's impossible to not have them touch anything. I wish the HU had more than a measly .8v output; more voltage helps with noise rejection, but it is what it is.
 
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Trying to stay a step ahead of Mr. Murphy. Right now all those speaker wires are labeled. Yay me. But once I cut them to length they won't be b/c the labels are on the ends.

So I quick printed up these 1/2" heat shrink labels that I'll put on each wire as I cut it to length. The labels will be on the part of the wire that's under the amp rack, so they won't be seen unless I really need to see them. Trying to do the "battery pop test" while your head is in the trunk won't help you in identifying where the pop is coming from at all.

This is the kind of stuff that experience and learning from screwing it up teaches you. Reminds me of the old adage: "Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted."
IMG_20201014_213341878 (Large).jpg


Here's the label maker I use. It takes 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4" tapes. It's really versatile. I use it all the time to label drawers, storage boxes, wires, whatever.
https://www.amazon.com/Rhino-Labeli...ld=1&keywords=dymo+4200&qid=1602729739&sr=8-3
 
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I wish the HU had more than a measly .8v output; more voltage helps with noise rejection, but it is what it is.
You can use Forscan to convert the stock headunit to 4-volt unclipped outputs without the factory EQ and bass rolloff.
 
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You can use Forscan to convert the stock headunit to 4-volt unclipped outputs without the factory EQ and bass rolloff.
This is the first I'm hearing about the 4V part and I've done my research. If I missed it and this is true, that would be AWESOME. I've already removed the factory EQ and bass rolloff (though I'm not using any rear speakers). Do you know which code to change to enable the 4V output? I checked the HU output both before and after the Forscan changes and it was max .8v both times.
 

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As you got an amplified system it's already set to 4V.
But remember, 4V is only if you push all sound settings to their max in the headunit, i.e. bass, mids, treble all the way up (and all other possible settings, too), volume on 30 and 0db testtracks.
4V is the absolute max this unit will give you.

That's the reason why people using the DSR1 complained about the necessity to raise the gains on the amp before they implemented a setting where you can choose the input voltage to the DSR1 from the default of 4V (you can now configure between 3 and 6Volt i think).
 

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Thanks for the detailed explanation, @Cathul That makes sense. I'll be leaving the tone settings on the HU all at 0, faded all the way to the front. I'm taking my signal from the HU from just the fronts and using the TWK for all EQ duties. I'm hoping the TWK-88 can get me all the gain I will need without introducing any additional noise.

When I did my measurements for the HU output, I used a 0dB, 1KHz test tone with the HU's tone controls set flat, faded all the way to the front and the max I got was .8 and change.
 

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That's normal. Even my Kenwood headunit is not putting out the full 4V with everything set to flat.
 

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As you got an amplified system it's already set to 4V.
But remember, 4V is only if you push all sound settings to their max in the headunit, i.e. bass, mids, treble all the way up (and all other possible settings, too), volume on 30 and 0db testtracks.
4V is the absolute max this unit will give you.

That's the reason why people using the DSR1 complained about the necessity to raise the gains on the amp before they implemented a setting where you can choose the input voltage to the DSR1 from the default of 4V (you can now configure between 3 and 6Volt i think).
This is the reason my system output is so low. I have the DSR1 and when I set the input sensitivity its at -6db and at volume of 23 its starting to get to a decent listening volume. Thanks for that info, when doing the setup for the DSR1 the default setting is 4 volt output from the factory head unit.
 

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I wish the HU had more than a measly .8v output; more voltage helps with noise rejection, but it is what it is.
The head unit on the 9 & 12 speaker systems puts out a clean (no clipping) variable line-level voltage of 2.7V at MAX volume with all tone controls at mid point. That's probably the only good thing about the OEM sound system. Ford gave us a very capable and quiet head unit.
 

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This is the reason my system output is so low. I have the DSR1 and when I set the input sensitivity its at -6db and at volume of 23 its starting to get to a decent listening volume. Thanks for that info, when doing the setup for the DSR1 the default setting is 4 volt output from the factory head unit.
Are you able to set the DSR to a 2V input range? That should increase the gain on the DSR input. At 4V setting the DSR is expecting a higher input voltage.
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