Stuck Active Exhaust Actuator (GT)

[ChromaticGrey]

Sadly this was easily avoidable, I fucked up the wiring when I did my headers, when it grounded out it ruined the actuator.

Pretty much all my fault

Thankfully it’s fixed and I can enjoy the car again.

Fair enough. I think of it as something to go wrong. But most likely it super rare they fail.

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[Ls_Eater]

Fair enough. I think of it as something to go wrong. But most likely it super rare they fail.

Yeah that was my initial fear as well...so far its not proving me wrong haha

 

[khsonic03]

Pulled the Muffler and Removed the Actuator, Must be an entirely different piece than is used on the 350.

The 18's Actuator is entirely enclosed in Plastic and unable to be opened, I did confirm that the Valve itself opens and closes manually freely.

I took the Passenger Side Actuator and plugged it into the drivers side (Because I have confirmed that this side is functioning properly by watching the exhaust on vehicle start up).

Upon starting the car, it failed to move at all, leading me to believe that the Actuator itself is indeed dead, just to confirm, I moved the Driver side actuator over to the passenger side, and it still functioned properly.

New actuator is on the way!

Do you have the part number for the actuator? And did it come with the metal spring?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Ls_Eater]

Do you have the part number for the actuator? And did it come with the metal spring?

Thanks in advance!

Does come with spring.

Don't have PN on me currently but I'll get it when I get home if I can find it.

Did come to find out later it's actually cheaper to order the whole muffler than just the Actuator.

 

[khsonic03]

Does come with spring.

Don't have PN on me currently but I'll get it when I get home if I can find it.

Did come to find out later it's actually cheaper to order the whole muffler than just the Actuator.

That would be awesome if you could find the part number. I saw where the mufflers are about $400 each now. How much was the actuator?

 

[Angry50]

mine had issues too, i removed them and ordered the AWE mount for the motors, it currently seems there is no easy way to abandon the active setup.

 

[Rash]

Does anyone have the part number for the actuator? I’m in the same situation - have everything apart, Remote started and the actuator is clearly sticking. Before I try lubing it up since I’m still under warranty, I’d like to know how much it cost to just buy on my own if I screw this one up. But I don’t have the part number and I can’t seem to find it. The part number on the actuator brings up nothing on Google.

 

[Rash]

Also, any pictures of the actuator with the spring on? When I took mine off the spring fell out and I’m not sure exactly which way it goes back in.

 

[Rapid Red]

I've searched and searched, and I did find quite a bit of relevant information as to non-functioning active, caused by frayed wires (Which I myself have just replaced), on both Modified as well as stock vehicles.

After replacing the Pigtails myself, the active is still non-functioning, however, if you examine the tips while the car is off both are fully open (as expected), however upon starting of the vehicle the driverside closes and the passengers stays wide open, and shortly there after you receive the "Exhaust mode Selection is Unavailable".

I've attempted to "poke" the Driver/Passengers side and the driverside does show movement, where as the passenger is rock solid in its place.

I think it's safe to assume that my Passenger side actuator is stuck, I'm curious if anyone has ever fixed a stuck actuator or even attempted to disassemble it to reset the spring?

I WOULD take it to Ford, however they've already made it clear that they will not be covering this exhaust work under warranty.

Here is the question, do you ever drive with the exhaust set in any other mode than track ?

If the answer is no, I'd suggest when you see the blades open. Pull the plugs done, enjoy the ride.

I did this to my car cause the driver side started to not take a set. With the blades open, tuned of the car, pulled the plugs and tie wrapped the wire out of the way.

Now I drive sport ++ mode with track exhaust, no more 2 step. to get there.

 

[Rapid Red]

Does anyone have the part number for the actuator? I’m in the same situation - habe everything apart, Remote started and the actuator is clearly sticking. Before I try looping it up since I’m still under warranty, I’d like to know how much it cost to just buy on my own if I screw this one up. But I don’t have the part number and I can’t seem to find it. The part number on the actuator brings up nothing on Google.

 

[MikeMM]

Does anyone have the part number for the actuator? I’m in the same situation - habe everything apart, Remote started and the actuator is clearly sticking. Before I try looping it up since I’m still under warranty, I’d like to know how much it cost to just buy on my own if I screw this one up. But I don’t have the part number and I can’t seem to find it. The part number on the actuator brings up nothing on Google.

JR3Z-6554-A. Retail is $211.62.

 

[Geosh]

Also, any pictures of the actuator with the spring on? When I took mine off the spring fell out and I’m not sure exactly which way it goes back in.

One side will fit in the 2 notches in the valves, and the other side will be flat in the center to fit in the notch of the actuator. Pretty straight forward if you play with it and can see everything. I’ll see if I have pics still somewhere.

 

[Geosh]

Those are the BMW ones I used. Not the Ford ones. Same basic thing though

 

[Geosh]

JR3Z-6554-A. Retail is $211.62.

Or JR3Z-5K245-B. I’ve seen them in the $145 range when I was looking for them.

 

[Rapid Red]

Those are the BMW ones I used. Not the Ford ones. Same basic thing though

Same basic thing though exactly....cheap not very durable looking. Too much plastic, that might be subject to change with the heat cycles.

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