good coil overs

[Jackthewack]

so i am looking at getting coilovers this year i am a noob to the hpde stuff but so far i am in love. i am looking at the steeda coil overs as i hear nothing but good stuff about their products and customer service they also have alot of options for spring rates and im not sure what to get. car is mostly stock just have 19x11 wheels and indy 500 tires for handling mods. i plan on doing some track day stuff on occasion but mostly autox and street use. i want a good planted set up that is not going to ride like a board. any input on their coil overs would be appreciated, and also any other parts i should do either before or at the same time as coils. thanks im sure this has been asked but i seached the forum and have not found the info i would like. pfa

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[shogun32]

I would suggest the Fortune Auto instead. Or go whole-hog and get RideTech or other first class coil-overs. But being a noob, I would say you probably want to do all the diff and chassis fixes first. And then re-examine the situation after a couple of events.

 

[Jackthewack]

I would suggest the Fortune Auto instead. Or go whole-hog and get RideTech or other first class coil-overs. But being a noob, I would say you probably want to do all the diff and chassis fixes first. And then re-examine the situation after a couple of events.

Thanks for the reply. What kind of chassis stuff would be good to do? Ive heard mixed things on the diff bushings but I'm honestly not even sure how to tell while driving what is causing certain things. I was thinking coilovers because the ass squats alot when I accelerate hard and I feel like I have alot of body roll. I think coilovers can help with body roll as well.

 

[Jackthewack]

I would suggest the Fortune Auto instead. Or go whole-hog and get RideTech or other first class coil-overs. But being a noob, I would say you probably want to do all the diff and chassis fixes first. And then re-examine the situation after a couple of events.

I just checked out fortune autos sight, wow that looks like some really good stuff. Thank you

 

[shogun32]

Ive heard mixed things on the diff bushings.

The Whiteline bushings are money. Cheap to acquire, not so cheap to install. NVH is minor. The BMR/Steeda lockouts are stiff materials and while quite easy to install, make a lot more noise. If you want to spend just $50 on the diff, then get any of the "diff fastener upgrade" kits from the usual suspects. It'll address the immediate problem which is egregious slop in the rear bushing bore clearance to the bolt.

Chassis wise you want the "stop the hop" kits be it BMR (CB010/762) or Steeda, to include the alignment dowels IRS bushing replacements (Whiteline) or lockout solutions, and K-member brace.

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but I'm honestly not even sure how to tell while driving what is causing certain things..

Then IMO you're not in a position to throw big money at coilover dampers just yet.

I was thinking coilovers because the ass squats alot when I accelerate hard and I feel like I have alot of body roll. I think coilovers can help with body roll as well.

What you really need are higher rate springs and rollbars - short of the $$$$$$ damper they generally have no adjustment for slow-rate compression (body roll) and is more properly addressed via springs to start. I wouldn't go higher than 250F/800-1000R (divorced) on the springs. The BMR SP083 come HIGHLY recommended. Bar-wise the FP track package items seem to work well but examine the BMR/Steeda options more carefully since they may be a bit too stiff. Prepare to buy both a front and rear bar if you do them at all, and replacement front endlinks are also recommended.

then there's the whole replace rubber bushings with bearings effort, as well as dealing with roll-center correcting links and bump-steer kits if you've dropped the front by around an inch ($400-600)

Sure, you can just throw 'coil-overs' at the car but you won't achieve near the benefits that fixing all the other issues brings to the table.

 

[Jackthewack]

I was thinking away bars in the future. I didn't want to do springs because from what I understand the shocks will not do well due to valving and then I still would need camber plates for more alignment adjustment. And coilovers have both problems solved. I will look into the kits you have recommended thank you.

 

[Jackthewack]

Then IMO you're not in a position to throw big money at coilover dampers just yet.

What I mean is when I'm loosing traction or the car gets upset I'm not really sure how to tell what components would make it better. I have heard toe links are a good idea.
I will look into the kits out there thanks

 

[EFI]

i am a noob to the hpde stuff but so far i am in love

car is mostly stock just have 19x11 wheels and indy 500 tires

Not to derail the thread specifically about coilovers, but at this point I would recommend you get some better tires, brake fluid and more seat time before going up to coilovers. Until you're skilled enough to outdrive the capabilities of the car as is, coilovers are mainly a waste especially low end ones.

 

[Jackthewack]

Not to derail the thread specifically about coilovers, but at this point I would recommend you get some better tires, brake fluid and more seat time before going up to coilovers. Until you're skilled enough to outdrive the capabilities of the car as is, coilovers are mainly a waste especially low end ones.

so far the tires have been fine i will be getting some michelin sp4s in 305 all around but that is latter on whne these wear down. seat time 100% thats what im trying to do. from my understanding brake fluid is something to change befor track day and then switch back after due to its poor resistance to moisture but thats just what people i asked at the track told me. i have had zero brake issues so far. i am no where near outdriving the car but i do feel the body roll and also want the car to sit better overall. i was going to just do springs origionaly to look better and then drive the shit out of it but i was told not to do that unless i get shocks that are valved for it and i need camber plates to fit these fat wheels under the fenders under load so i figures might as well get coils instead of droping 1k on springs shocks and camber plates.

 

[SteveW]

@Jackthewack I would spend some time educating yourself about how shocks and other suspension components work and their affects on handling before throwing money at parts. Here are some links to look into the differences between shock types, adjustable shocks and bars and what they affect, as well as some suspension geometry info.

https://www.ridetech.com/info/tech/suspension-tuning-guide-high-performance-vehicles/

https://iscsuspension-na.com/monotube-vs-twin-tube-difference-better/

https://nasaspeed.news/tech/suspens...hock-absorbers-and-their-effects-on-handling/

http://www.thecartech.com/subjects/auto_eng2/roll_center.htm

Don't forget the driver-mod as well. Sometimes handling issues are driver related ;o)

 

[EFI]

i am no where near outdriving the car but i do feel the body roll and also want the car to sit better overall.

Do you believe the body roll is causing you to lose time on track? Again based on your first statement and this one, it seems you're more interested in how the car feels/looks vs. how it actually performs.

from my understanding brake fluid is something to change befor track day and then switch back after due to its poor resistance to moisture but thats just what people i asked at the track told me.

Not really, you don't have to switch out the fluid after every track day. A hi-po fluid will take on more moisture faster than regular stuff, but it doesn't mean it can't be used for more than 1 event. Also you don't need hi-po fluid until you once again start driving past the car (and most specifically the brake's) capabilities. You just want fresh fluid in there and the OEM Motorcraft stuff works well for a stock car + noob driver.

might as well get coils instead of droping 1k on springs shocks and camber plates.

You will be better off in the long run with 1k on springs/shocks/plates than 1k in garbage coilovers. You will be better off with more seat time now while saving money towards decent 3k coilovers in a year or two rather than slapping on 1k coilovers today.

 

[Jackthewack]

@Jackthewack I would spend some time educating yourself about how shocks and other suspension components work and their affects on handling before throwing money at parts. Here are some links to look into the differences between shock types, adjustable shocks and bars and what they affect, as well as some suspension geometry info.

Don't forget the driver-mod as well. Sometimes handling issues are driver related ;o)

there is no doubt in my mind the car is capable of more than i am. and thanks for the links i will do some reading thats why im here to learn from others. i also was planning on doing a track day class.

 

[Jackthewack]

Do you believe the body roll is causing you to lose time on track? Again based on your first statement and this one, it seems you're more interested in how the car feels/looks vs. how it actually performs.

i honestly felt if the car feels better that i would be more confident to push harder.

[/QUOTE]Not really, you don't have to switch out the fluid after every track day. A hi-po fluid will take on more moisture faster than regular stuff, but it doesn't mean it can't be used for more than 1 event. Also you don't need hi-po fluid until you once again start driving past the car (and most specifically the brake's) capabilities. You just want fresh fluid in there and the OEM Motorcraft stuff works well for a stock car + noob driver.[/QUOTE]

well that is good to know. so basicly a brake flush would be good?

[/QUOTE]You will be better off in the long run with 1k on springs/shocks/plates than 1k in garbage coilovers. You will be better off with more seat time now while saving money towards decent 3k coilovers in a year or two rather than slapping on 1k coilovers today.[/QUOTE]
that makes sense. i know that alot of people believe any aftermarket part is an upgrade to stock but i know thats false thats why im asking. i was also orgionaly looking at steeda coils because the havea track car and they seem to do alot of testing so i figured their products would be decent.

 

[shogun32]

Check with others but I'm pretty sure they've since backed off those rates as being much too high. Yes their website hasn't been updated...

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