Direct swap amp for Shaker Pro sub?

[Hilfloskind]

I just ordered an RF Punch P3SD2-8 sub to swap into my existing Shaker Pro sub enclosure. My initial plan was to have a custom fab enclosure built for my Orion XTR 12" sub and Kenwood amp, but the prospects of finding anything remotely small enough not to wipe out a majority of my limited convertible trunk space were pretty low.

That being said, I've decided to accept the lack of 12" sub depth/power and work with the factory system as best as I can. I'm replacing the front 6.5's with Powerbass components and the 3.5's with Infinity Reference 3022cfx's, while retaining the stock amp. I may either swap the tweeters with the PB supplied ones using inline bass blockers (vs the supplied crossovers) or simply disconnect the tweeters altogether since the Infinity ones are coaxials.

That being said, I am curious if anyone has any experience doing a direct swap for the Shaker Pro sub amp itself. I don't mean routing from something in the trunk or spare tire area, but actually swapping in a mini amp in the existing location and reusing the factory wiring without running new power lines. I saw some very low profile mono amps online and there seems to be quite a few options that look like they may get the job done. I simply want to maximize the output of the Punch sub without giving up any space in the trunk.

Ideas?

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[StangTime]

Perfect solution: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...iring-upgrades-etc.25501/page-60#post-2596668

 

[Hilfloskind]

Perfect solution: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...iring-upgrades-etc.25501/page-60#post-2596668

I was looking at that exact model today. My question is: can I reuse the existing wiring to the factory sub or do I need to rewire anything? Sounds like the fuse rating is identical, so I'm guessing this might be plug and play.

Any idea?

Thanks for helping on this, by the way!

 

[StangTime]

I was looking at that exact model today. My question is: can I reuse the existing wiring to the factory sub or do I need to rewire anything? Sounds like the fuse rating is identical, so I'm guessing this might be plug and play.

Any idea?

Thanks for helping on this, by the way!

From a quick glance at the spec page for the PBR300X1, it delivers 300W into a single 1 ohm load. You will need to make sure you wire the dual voice coil sub for 1 ohm mono operation. Should work just fine. You will need to cut or splice wires from the factory harness to the new amp. Add some polyfil pillow stuffing to the box (don't over stuff). Should be a piece of cake.

 

[StangTime]

From a quick glance at the spec page for the PBR300X1, it delivers 300W into a single 1 ohm load. You will need to make sure you wire the dual voice coil sub for 1 ohm mono operation. Should work just fine. You will need to cut or splice wires from the factory harness to the new amp. Add some polyfil pillow stuffing to the box (don't over stuff). Should be a piece of cake.

Just noticed this amp needs a +12V remote turn on. Our mustangs use 6V or something. So you'll need a relay or something to give you a 12V remote turn-on.

 

[Hilfloskind]

Just noticed this amp needs a +12V remote turn on. Our mustangs use 6V or something. So you'll need a relay or something to give you a 12V remote turn-on.

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019GY2FLW/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_6qJCEbF7AN88M

I assume I'd run this in line with the power line feeding the amp, correct?

 

[Hilfloskind]

From a quick glance at the spec page for the PBR300X1, it delivers 300W into a single 1 ohm load. You will need to make sure you wire the dual voice coil sub for 1 ohm mono operation. Should work just fine. You will need to cut or splice wires from the factory harness to the new amp. Add some polyfil pillow stuffing to the box (don't over stuff). Should be a piece of cake.

Would this model be a better option perhaps? It's not a mono amp and appears that it would work with a dual voice coil sub:

https://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/pbr300x2/

 

[StangTime]

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019GY2FLW/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_6qJCEbF7AN88M

I assume I'd run this in line with the power line feeding the amp, correct?

I would use this one specifically for car amplifiers: https://www.amazon.ca/PAC-TR-4-Voltage-Remote-Trigger/dp/B0002J22BE

 

[StangTime]

Would this model be a better option perhaps? It's not a mono amp and appears that it would work with a dual voice coil sub:

https://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/pbr300x2/

This one or the mono amp WILL work you just need to wire them differently. If you go with the dual channel amp, you will get 160W to each voice coil as opposed to 150W per coil with the mono amp. So there is that benefit.

 

[Hilfloskind]

This one or the mono amp WILL work you just need to wire them differently. If you go with the dual channel amp, you will get 160W to each voice coil as opposed to 150W per coil with the mono amp. So there is that benefit.

In either case, as long as I use the 12v converter you linked, I should be able to use the existing factory power and signal wiring to the OEM amp, correct?

 

[StangTime]

In either case, as long as I use the 12v converter you linked, I should be able to use the existing factory power and signal wiring to the OEM amp, correct?

I see no reason why it wouldn't work.

 

[Hilfloskind]

I see no reason why it wouldn't work.

Guess I know what my next move is then. Thanks for all your help!

 

[StangTime]

Guess I know what my next move is then. Thanks for all your help!

Glad to be of help. Let us know how it turns out.

 

[Hilfloskind]

Will do!

 

[dgreene]

Was line signal from original harness (OEM) loud enough? What colors were line signal wires? Violet/Green+, Green/White - ?

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