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GT350 WHEEL HOP?

The Rooster

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Im sure this topic has been discussed already but.. Does the GT350 suffer the same wheel hop as the GT? I just picked my 2017 350 up yesterday. Roads were cold so traction was no existent, and there was no wheel hop. I had the steeda bushing spacers and subframe braced installed on the 19 bullitt that I traded and combined they made a big difference to settle down the rear of the car. When I look the bushing support kit up there's no listing for the gt350; is there something different with the subframe bushings on these cars?
I kept the subframe braces that were on my bullitt, it appears these are compatible with the Shelby. Are they worth installing on their own?
Cheers
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JAJ

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Im sure this topic has been discussed already but.. Does the GT350 suffer the same wheel hop as the GT? I just picked my 2017 350 up yesterday. Roads were cold so traction was no existent, and there was no wheel hop. I had the steeda bushing spacers and subframe braced installed on the 19 bullitt that I traded and combined they made a big difference to settle down the rear of the car. When I look the bushing support kit up there's no listing for the gt350; is there something different with the subframe bushings on these cars?
I kept the subframe braces that were on my bullitt, it appears these are compatible with the Shelby. Are they worth installing on their own?
Cheers
The GT350 suspension has stiffer pretty much everything than a GT. You can get it to wheel hop, but you have to work at it. That said, there are lots of add-ons available that promise to make it better, and of course some of them will totally eliminate hop. Depends on your tolerance for road noise.
 

proeagles

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I have never suffered wheel hop and have spun my wheels plenty of times. I will admit that I don't rev it up and dump the clutch however. I walk the car into wheel spin a lot, especially in cold temps just for the fun of drifting the car without too much stress on it.
 

nastang87xx

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Subframe bracing should be the very first thing anyone does to their rear suspension and the only thing until said person realizes how much this helps. Put em on and DON'T DO ANYTHING ELSE until you get an idea of what you're now working with.
 

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galaxy

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Subframe bracing should be the very first thing anyone does to their rear suspension and the only thing until said person realizes how much this helps. Put em on and DON'T DO ANYTHING ELSE until you get an idea of what you're now working with.
That's always great advice and what's holding me back (smartly) from throwing money at the suspension without trying to fix something I have an issue with. @nastang87xx You have a recommendation on a good one to start with; Steeda? is this what you're talking about? https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-rear-irs-subframe-brace-2015-coupe-555-5754.html
 

nastang87xx

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Steeda braces are great and super easy install. BMR's lockout kit Level 2 weighs less of course but is a harder install.

In terms of most effectiveness, the Steeda kit is probably better but I went with the BMR kit because of weight reasons. I don't really drag race and I wanted to get my rear subframe more in control rather than eliminate wheel hop. Wheel hop reduction was just a bonus for me.
 

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Front subframe braces and the rear braces and IRS alignment dowels were great first modifications for my car. I then did the upper links and I don't get wheel hop with the car at all.
 

lenFeb

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I do have wheel hop every time when it's cold out of corners
 

jmn444

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I'm doing the steeda alignment dowels/bushings and the bmr cb005 braces. mostly because i'm installing springs/sways anyway... easier to do all at once IMO.
 

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mavisky

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I'm doing the steeda alignment dowels/bushings and the bmr cb005 braces. mostly because i'm installing springs/sways anyway... easier to do all at once IMO.
Agree with this 100%. Do it all at once especially with the springs and swaybars up front or any of the cradle bushing mods in the rear. I did my rear springs the CJ Pony Parts way by just lowering the rear IRS cradle and it was way easier than trying to torque the suspension bolts back down correctly with the car level and all.
 

jmn444

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Agree with this 100%. Do it all at once especially with the springs and swaybars up front or any of the cradle bushing mods in the rear. I did my rear springs the CJ Pony Parts way by just lowering the rear IRS cradle and it was way easier than trying to torque the suspension bolts back down correctly with the car level and all.
that's my plan as well, was a good excuse to get an underhoist jack :)
 

fpa1974

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I have done the Steeda IRS brace with the centering delrin pieces they sell twice on my old GT350 and removed it twice (the brace). Both times while helping with the subframe movement, I got it to rub against the edge of the factory left front IRS bracket. I have not done anything to the new car yet - still deciding what to do ;)
 

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Here is a nice, short & informative video talking about the GT350 & some of the upgrades we have done to a customer's car:



Let us know if we can help!

TJ
 

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Roads were cold so traction was no existent, and there was no wheel hop
That's because your tires were constantly spinning. It's when you get 'spin-grip-spin-grip' that wheel hop makes it appearance. At least in my case.
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