Bought a GT350 that has been sitting for a while

[Mero350]

I have bought a 2016 GT350 (NEW) which has only 20miles that has been sitting around for a while.
any recommendations? to what should I do besides changing the oil and checking the tires? ( plus taking care of the recall it has)

thank you all

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[TuxedoPC]

I have bought a 2016 GT350 (NEW) which has only 20miles that has been sitting around for a while.
any recommendations? to what should I do besides changing the oil and checking the tires? ( plus taking care of the recall it has)

thank you all

Congrats!!!, how long has it been sitting? Usually factory oil has breaking in properties so I usually keep that for a minimum of 500mi. But first thing is first do you know how long its been sitting?

 

[Mero350]

Congrats!!!, how long has it been sitting? Usually factory oil has breaking in properties so I usually keep that for a minimum of 500mi. But first thing is first do you know how long its been sitting?

honestly dont know. the dealership I bought it from had it for about a month or so. But the car itself has been sitting for 3 years for sure or more somewhere else. it has all of the covers and even splitter and car cover still in the trunk in boxes.

 

[TuxedoPC]

honestly dont know. the dealership I bought it from had it for about a month or so. But the car itself has been sitting for 3 years for sure or more somewhere else. it has all of the covers and even splitter and car cover still in the trunk in boxes.

oh wow, thats crazy. Never seen a car sit that long brand new with that low mileage. Would def. need an oil change no doubt. I wonder if any rust accumulated in the cylinder walls sitting for that long. Tires should be visually inspected to see if dry rot/flat spots. I don't know about tranny fluid but 3 years of just pure sitting I would recommend just a precaution.

 

[Hack]

Wow, probably built in 2015 and 20 miles in 4+ years. Crazy.

I would break it in with lots of brief full throttle blasts in 2nd or 3rd gear and lots of no throttle coasting, keeping rpms down under 6,500 or so. I would do this on a road/time of day with very little traffic so I don't get stuck doing some light throttle cruise behind someone. My biggest worry would be trying to get the best possible seal between the rings and cylinder walls, so I would avoid light throttle cruise like the plague for the first 1,000 miles. Also I would try really hard to avoid idling the engine more than absolutely necessary. Probably over the 4+ years with almost no miles on it it's already been idled too much - hopefully the cylinder walls aren't already glazed.

I would make sure it's over 2,500 rpm before nailing the throttle and then let off and allow it to coast down no brakes just foot completely off the gas pedal. Repeat over and over. Then somewhere between 500 and 1,000 miles I would change all the fluids. To me changing the fluids now with 20 miles on it when the car hasn't really even been moved at all seems like a waste, but I'd change them early to get rid of some of the initial break in debris.

 

[thill444]

I would give Ford Performance a call and discuss the situation to see what they recommend:
For any other questions regarding your Ford Performance vehicle or aftermarket parts, you can call the Ford Performance Techline / Info Center at (800)-FORD-788

 

[svassh]

Did you buy from a Ford dealership as a new car? If so I don't believe the warranty starts until date of purchase...

 

[key01]

Man, I hope you got a great deal on it.

 

[thill444]

Did you buy from a Ford dealership as a new car? If so I don't believe the warranty starts until date of purchase...

I was going to ask the same thing.

 

[torque124]

I bought my R at 1800 miles in August 2019, when it was 3 years old, and it was sitting for more than a year in the owner's hangar (where he had over 20 cars) - so I was told - before brought over to the dealership where I bought it.
I just changed the oil and drove it ... it's perfect for now.

Don't worry too much, just vary the RPM's in the first 1000 miles, and don't go crazy on it. Don't worry about the gearbox and diff fluids until at least 4-5k miles. I changed mine in my previous track pack at about 9k, and it had some debris, but not much to be honest.

 

[Tank]

Wow, probably built in 2015 and 20 miles in 4+ years. Crazy.

I would break it in with lots of brief full throttle blasts in 2nd or 3rd gear and lots of no throttle coasting, keeping rpms down under 6,500 or so. I would do this on a road/time of day with very little traffic so I don't get stuck doing some light throttle cruise behind someone. My biggest worry would be trying to get the best possible seal between the rings and cylinder walls, so I would avoid light throttle cruise like the plague for the first 1,000 miles. Also I would try really hard to avoid idling the engine more than absolutely necessary. Probably over the 4+ years with almost no miles on it it's already been idled too much - hopefully the cylinder walls aren't already glazed.

I would make sure it's over 2,500 rpm before nailing the throttle and then let off and allow it to coast down no brakes just foot completely off the gas pedal. Repeat over and over. Then somewhere between 500 and 1,000 miles I would change all the fluids. To me changing the fluids now with 20 miles on it when the car hasn't really even been moved at all seems like a waste, but I'd change them early to get rid of some of the initial break in debris.

Just get it up to temp before you smash the throttle....

OP, is it a Track or Tech model?

 

[Hack]

Just get it up to temp before you smash the throttle....

OP, is it a Track or Tech model?

I wouldn't worry too much about the temp being high before smashing the throttle myself. Stepping on it will help everything to warm up. Maybe use 3/4 throttle instead of full throttle for the first few blasts. Just avoid revving it too high, which I would do during break in anyway.

I definitely wouldn't encourage someone to let the car idle to warm it up or to cruise lightly down the highway for 5 or more miles waiting for it to warm up. If the temperatures outside are cold enough that you are worried about excessively thick oil, just wait until it's warmer. I broke my 2016 GT350 in when it was mid November here in MN, so temperatures were 20s-40s. The oil will never get up to 180+ degrees when it's that cool outside unless you are pushing the car. In my opinion, everything went great doing the break in with the oil at a cooler temperature.

 

[sublime1996525]

Damn! Can I ask what you paid? I'm curious the discount that dealer would put to move a 4 year old car.

 

[lightrules]

yeah interested here too about what you might have paid for this thing. this has to be one of the more interesting threads in recent memory...

 

[thill444]

I wouldn't worry too much about the temp being high before smashing the throttle myself. Stepping on it will help everything to warm up. Maybe use 3/4 throttle instead of full throttle for the first few blasts. Just avoid revving it too high, which I would do during break in anyway.

I definitely wouldn't encourage someone to let the car idle to warm it up or to cruise lightly down the highway for 5 or more miles waiting for it to warm up. If the temperatures outside are cold enough that you are worried about excessively thick oil, just wait until it's warmer. I broke my 2016 GT350 in when it was mid November here in MN, so temperatures were 20s-40s. The oil will never get up to 180+ degrees when it's that cool outside unless you are pushing the car. In my opinion, everything went great doing the break in with the oil at a cooler temperature.

I try to keep it around 2-3K rpm when cold (under 120 degrees) and then below 6Krpm after that until it gets above 150 or so. Adn yeah I bet it would take forever in MN when it is below freezing to get the car up to 180 degrees.

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