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Header bolt locking washers

Daryl333

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I've searched for solutions to Header bolts backing off. I've read about different solutions.
Has anybody tried tha Nord-Loc
Lock washer?
I am going to be using ARP bolts and wondering if these washers might be an option.
Opinions?
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Cobra Jet

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I personally have always used ARP stainless 12-point header bolts on prior Mustangs/Broncos and never had a single issue with them backing out or coming loose. Plus with them being 12-point heads, it’s easier getting a 12 point wrench on the end of the ARP bolts, because you have more flexibility with getting the right angle needed for turning the wrench AND it’s more difficult to strip a 12-point head over a 6-point head.

The trick with any header bolt is not only torque to yield, but after the initial install and a normal heat cycle, always, always, always re-torque the header bolts! Most people think that the initial install and torque is enough and they’re done.... NOT.

The Stage 8 locking header fastener system is very good, but over the years I’ve also read and heard some people complain about having to deal with the multiple pieces of the Stage 8 system.
 
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Daryl333

Daryl333

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I personally have always used ARP stainless 12-point header bolts on prior Mustangs/Broncos and never had a single issue with them backing out or coming loose. Plus with them being 12-point heads, it’s easier getting a 12 point wrench on the end of the ARP bolts, because you have more flexibility with getting the right angle needed for turning the wrench AND it’s more difficult to strip a 12-point head over a 6-point head.

The trick with any header bolt is not only torque to yield, but after the initial install and a normal heat cycle, always, always, always re-torque the header bolts! Most people think that the initial install and torque is enough and they’re done.... NOT.

The Stage 8 locking header fastener system is very good, but over the years I’ve also read and heard some people complain about having to deal with the multiple pieces of the Stage 8 system.
Thx I am going with the ARP 12 point bolts.
I am just wondering and it might be a stupid question... But to save time can a person just loosen the nuts and then remove the studs.
Without having to back the nut all the way off?
Thx.
 

Hack

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I would much prefer to use studs and nuts rather than bolts going into an aluminum head. Sorry, I don't have a solution, just a concern.
 

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boB

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The original bolts see the same vibration (maybe?) but they don't loosen.
 

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I Bleed Ford Blue

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In my experience, any lock washer needs to be harder than the material your bolting it on to so they can dig in and get a bite, otherwise they do nothing but empty your wallet. With the header flanges being 304 stainless and the header studs and nuts from the factory also stainless the so called lock washers would have to be extremely hard to dig into them. Chances are they are not. Just reuse the factory studs and nuts and don't waste your money.
 

bauern

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In my experience, any lock washer needs to be harder than the material your bolting it on to so they can dig in and get a bite, otherwise they do nothing but empty your wallet. With the header flanges being 304 stainless and the header studs and nuts from the factory also stainless the so called lock washers would have to be extremely hard to dig into them. Chances are they are not. Just reuse the factory studs and nuts and don't waste your money.
This is true, and they are not recommended if the material is harder than the washers, but they are available in 316 or 254 SMO Stainless.
 
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Daryl333

Daryl333

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The Lock washers are Carbon Steel.
I have time to research this more.
I don't want to use the studs.
Why repeat steps if you dont have to.So Bauern you haven't used these?
 
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Daryl333

Daryl333

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I talked to the guys that are doing the work and they said they use them on a lot of cars. Since they're doing the work I'm gonna try em. I guess I'll find out.
Lol
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