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Performance nut

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I asked around awhile back. The consensus was that most don't do it because of cost and minimal gains. I personally would do it though if my mechanical water pump failed. Not because it is more reliable, just the fact that I now had a reason to upgrade something.

As far as practicality, Meziere has stated they haven't had many warranty claims on their pumps. 3000+ hours of operation... maybe the high mileage guys can chime in but I would think that would equate to 100k+ miles.
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accel

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I had electric waterpump in bmw and that was a nightmare. Some would last indefinitely. But some would fail with no warning and no reason, and the failure is immediate and final. The risk of engine overheating was very high. When I sold it it was on its third (electric) waterpump. I preffer mechanical.
 

Bluemustang

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Mine failed while on the highway on a trip to PA. 50K miles.
 

erne75

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Mine just failed!!!! I didnt overheat of anything just came back from a 15 minute drive, parked on my driveway and ntoice liquid puddling under my car. Coolant, lost of coolant from the front of the engine. If I squeeze the upper radiator hose if gushes out of the water pump!!! No warning, just catastrophic failure. Mine just have 35K miles
 

aleccolin

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I switched to Electric, pricey though. My pump was leaking at around 18k when I did my intake cams. I think the rpm's take a lot of life out of them. My car has had a GT350 manifold since 2016 so it has seen 8k many many many times.
The Electric pump was super easy to install and has been great all year, even in 95* stop and go traffic.
Care to share what you used?
 

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CrashOverride

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I had electric waterpump in bmw and that was a nightmare. Some would last indefinitely. But some would fail with no warning and no reason, and the failure is immediate and final. The risk of engine overheating was very high. When I sold it it was on its third (electric) waterpump. I preffer mechanical.
You beat me to the punch. BMW's are notorious for failed electric pumps around 100k miles. Don't get me wrong, they are an excellent design in that you don't need a thermostat, you just spin the motor slower or faster depending on the cooling need. You have less parasitic drag when not needed, and you can circulate coolant even when the car is off, say after a hot track session.

But, there is more stuff to fail. The bearings and such of a regular water pump still could fail, but now you also have to add the motor drive electronics, and dust intrusion into motors, etc.

The new GM 4-banger turbo truck has an electric water pump. I'm curious to see how it's reliability stands up to the BMW units.

Personally, I wouldn't do it.
 

accel

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You beat me to the punch. BMW's are notorious for failed electric pumps around 100k miles.
My car was well below 100k with its 3 pumps. General opinion was - it was not mileage but rather number of engine starts.

Also, with mechanical bearing type failures you'd typically have time to react to rxtra shaft play or maybe extra noise, some leak or so.

With electric one on bmw I got a yellow warning light and next second red "engine overheated" sign. On top of that morons did not even provide water temp gauge.

So no, I do not appreciate their design.
 

CrashOverride

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My car was well below 100k with its 3 pumps. General opinion was - it was not mileage but rather number of engine starts.

Also, with mechanical bearing type failures you'd typically have time to react to rxtra shaft play or maybe extra noise, some leak or so.

With electric one on bmw I got a yellow warning light and next second red "engine overheated" sign. On top of that morons did not even provide water temp gauge.

So no, I do not appreciate their design.
Wow that's nuts. Yeah I guess if the motor stops, it stops, so you go from "man this stinks" to a warped head in no time. BMW's are so technically superior, but when the rubber meets the road, they just don't stack up. I couldn't believe that one had to have a replacement battery "coded" in order for it to work. Even the parts costs are through the roof, let alone the labor. When I picked up my 135i from the dealer for recall work, there was a stack of repair bills the cashier dug through. All of them were over $2000.
 

accel

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Wow that's nuts. Yeah I guess if the motor stops, it stops, so you go from "man this stinks" to a warped head in no time. BMW's are so technically superior, but when the rubber meets the road, they just don't stack up. I couldn't believe that one had to have a replacement battery "coded" in order for it to work. Even the parts costs are through the roof, let alone the labor. When I picked up my 135i from the dealer for recall work, there was a stack of repair bills the cashier dug through. All of them were over $2000.
I called my former 328i a city car. Because finally I was afraid to drive too far from bmw service centers.
 

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Kong76

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OP is at 57k and I'm at 59k miles. Does seem quick for it to wear out. I think this is a pretty common problem with all Coyote motors (2011-2019). I've heard about it on several different forums.
Mine was replaced at 36k. Also the front main seal. This is why my car is still stock and will remain that way all the way to 59,999 miles. No faith in this car what so ever.
 

JJR512

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I'll add on that my water pump failed recently, too. 2015 GT at 59k miles. Sprayed coolant all around the engine bay but there wasn't any collateral damage.
 

Idaho2018GTPremium

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I had electric waterpump in bmw and that was a nightmare. Some would last indefinitely. But some would fail with no warning and no reason, and the failure is immediate and final. The risk of engine overheating was very high. When I sold it it was on its third (electric) waterpump. I preffer mechanical.
I put a meziere electric water pump on my '95 Trans Am I used to own years ago. I used to have to keep a spare set of control switches in the glove box because they would fry regularly. If I noticed the temperature gauge rising above normal, I would pull over, pull the switch, and replace it with a new one. Once I paid for the high end switch, it stopped frying. The cheap ones wouldn't last. The pump itself was always fine. I think on that car the electric water pump was worth around 10 rwhp, give or take.

I liked having it because I also had a fan control switch (auto, low, high), that I could run with the car off and the ignition in the "on" position. The pump and radiator fans were running, so I could cool my car off very quickly if need be (i.e., between runs at the strip).
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