Whipple Camaro VS Mustang

[ugstang17]

Oh for sure. I know they all read different. Was more just comparing how they react to boost. Also curious how the 5.0 are down low rpm. I've heard they are more of top end screamers. I've only ever driven a 16 premium gt with an exhaust and cold air, otherwise stock. It felt quick but just spun 1st and 2nd

Once you've gone FI there is no turning back...unless you build an all out N/A race dedicated s

I wish I had E85 available to me. There is none around me in CT. I could run more boost and gain quite a bit of power just on that, but again my cam limits the gains. It seems the LS3's are good to about 800WHP before rods start going. Seems about the same as the Coyote in that regard. I probably will only take it up to about 700WHP. Should get me into the 10's and I will be happy with that.

With 700RWHP you should be able to leave fro man idle like leaving a stop light and run a 10.99ET with a manual shift car. Granted auto's today are not the slush boxes of yesterday and they have become the faster choice. But there are plenty of veteran drivers hitting 10's with much less HP in a full weight 4000 vehicle. No reason with some suspension improvements and a good tire selection you can't be hitting 10's with the setup you have.......or very close to it. I have a friend who simply runs a stock 4.6 32V Lincoln MKVIII engine in his stick shift car with a 150 shot and he has run a best of 11.04 snatching gears. Granted its a light weight SN95 car, but he buys those 32V 4.6's as cheap as an LS engine, throws them in and lights them yup with some giggle gas. So surely with your setup making obviously more power you can manage the power to the ground and find a ten with what you have.........or at least pretty close. That car should run 11.20's on a good bias ply IMHO if not faster.

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[Camaroguy]

Once you've gone FI there is no turning back...unless you build an all out N/A race dedicated s


With 700RWHP you should be able to leave fro man idle like leaving a stop light and run a 10.99ET with a manual shift car. Granted auto's today are not the slush boxes of yesterday and they have become the faster choice. But there are plenty of veteran drivers hitting 10's with much less HP in a full weight 4000 vehicle. No reason with some suspension improvements and a good tire selection you can't be hitting 10's with the setup you have.......or very close to it. I have a friend who simply runs a stock 4.6 32V Lincoln MKVIII engine in his stick shift car with a 150 shot and he has run a best of 11.04 snatching gears. Granted its a light weight SN95 car, but he buys those 32V 4.6's as cheap as an LS engine, throws them in and lights them yup with some giggle gas. So surely with your setup making obviously more power you can manage the power to the ground and find a ten with what you have.........or at least pretty close. That car should run 11.20's on a good bias ply IMHO if not faster.

Your input is appreciated. I am feeling I would be mid 11's with my inexperience with the car. I've only had it for 3 months and just finished the charger a few weeks ago, just dyno tunes the 9th. Tough part about my car is they had crummy syncro's in 2011 So I my 1-2 shift is slower than I would like. Right now I am on Hankook Ventus in the rear 305s and If I heat them on a good road I can roll into first and get full traction and not spin at all in 2nd. The launch is tough, I haven't tried a hard launch but I basically do what you said I take off somewhat normal just with a little more throttle and a quicker clutch release if I keep it from spinning she hooks. I have poly cradle bushing inserts and Adjustable lower rears and toe links (for wheel hop on these) that I haven't installed yet. Also I am going to lower the car 1.4 inches. It's not an all out drag car. Curious how it will go! I will mostly be on the street tho, I don't know how often I will go to the track.

 

[ugstang17]

Your input is appreciated. I am feeling I would be mid 11's with my inexperience with the car. I've only had it for 3 months and just finished the charger a few weeks ago, just dyno tunes the 9th. Tough part about my car is they had crummy syncro's in 2011 So I my 1-2 shift is slower than I would like. Right now I am on Hankook Ventus in the rear 305s and If I heat them on a good road I can roll into first and get full traction and not spin at all in 2nd. The launch is tough, I haven't tried a hard launch but I basically do what you said I take off somewhat normal just with a little more throttle and a quicker clutch release if I keep it from spinning she hooks. I have poly cradle bushing inserts and Adjustable lower rears and toe links (for wheel hop on these) that I haven't installed yet. Also I am going to lower the car 1.4 inches. It's not an all out drag car. Curious how it will go! I will mostly be on the street tho, I don't know how often I will go to the track.

Pick up a 15x8 or 15x10 rim and mount a pair of 28" x 10.5" bias ply R series MT Drag Radials on it. They are still street legal, but designed for hooking and in line racing. They take the hit better, hook better and allow you to leave harder...of course leaving harder can come at a price as well. Get that 60 foot down into the 1.4 - 1.5 range and you should be clicking low 11's easily.

Bias ply tires tend to have a softer sidewall. So they will "walk" or "sway" on the big end. It's simply a matter of getting used to them. Even the MT R series radials will have a little sway in them though they have a slightly stiffer sidewall. Radials serve better on auto setups as a general rule. Most guys as well will also run an inner tube to take some of that out which is actually not a bad idea. Best of luck.

 

[Camaroguy]

Pick up a 15x8 or 15x10 rim and mount a pair of 28" x 10.5" bias ply R series MT Drag Radials on it. They are still street legal, but designed for hooking and in line racing. They take the hit better, hook better and allow you to leave harder...of course leaving harder can come at a price as well. Get that 60 foot down into the 1.4 - 1.5 range and you should be clicking low 11's easily.

Bias ply tires tend to have a softer sidewall. So they will "walk" or "sway" on the big end. It's simply a matter of getting used to them. Even the MT R series radials will have a little sway in them though they have a slightly stiffer sidewall. Radials serve better on auto setups as a general rule. Most guys as well will also run an inner tube to take some of that out which is actually not a bad idea. Best of luck.

I would have to change my brakes to run 15's in the rear. Smallest I can run it 17's. These cars hook really well on 17's with some ET streets I hear so once I have the extra $1400 I'll be getting a set of racestars and 17" slicks. I may go full drag slick since I will only be running them when I will be racing. The Hankooks are doing pretty well on the street for roll on's

 

[96gt4.6]

Completely stock '17 Automatic here. Whipple stage 1 (750hp) kit. 9psi boost, 91 pump gas with Boostane. All safties less Octane Adjust left enabled in the tune. This is also on the supplied Whipple tune:





So far my best has been 11.6@125, and I have the boost turned of in 1st gear (Whipple OS has boost by gear feature) as I ran that on my 255 Nitto NT05's. I have now upgraded to 10" wide wheels and a 305 Tire out back (still NT05). I think it will be lower 11's with traction issues in 1st still, as to truly launch with all the TQ available in 1st you really need a NT05R or M/T ET Street SS/Bias Ply. I'm fine with settling on leaving some on the table and not having to change tires to go race.

Car has a lot of growing room, the stage 2 upgrade (TB/Tune/Boost a Pump) and can still go better fuel and smaller pullies/more boost.

The Coyote loves boost. N/A the 6th gen Camaro's are right there with them, we have a few here that could take me N/A to N/A bolt on for bolt on. However, on boost, the Coyote seems to produce rather well with little mods other than the blower kit and supporting hardware. We have had two ZL1's here as well, one modded and one stock, I was .3 slower and 2 MPH faster through the traps last time out vs. the modded one. However, he had radials and was cutting 1.7 60's while I was running 1.89 with no boost in 1st launching.

The Camaro is still a great platform, just requires a bit more to get to the same level as a boosted Coyote, I think. However, I have never had the chance to see a Whipple'd one run here for fair comparison.

 

[Camaroguy]

That's awesome power to be pulling with just a stage 1 kit. All these new cars are amazing. I think I'll be happy with just adding a cam to mine and being around 700whp. I don't want to be breaking stuff and i feel pretty safe there. When my clutch goes I'll be sending the trains out for the hybrid synchros and upgraded main shaft. If the rear goes I'll upgrade it to the ZL1 bulletproof rear and be done

 

[Camaroguy]

An interesting note. I can hear no whine from my whipple. It is possible it is because it is so ridiculously loud with no cats and the borla ataks... it is so loud, seriously. I stood behind it when he hit it on the dyno and the ground was shaking and i had to block my ears... i get a slight whistle low rpm that i can hear and just the high pitched whistle when the valve closes. Kinda wish it whined, but then again hearing it idle down the road you would never expect its supercharged so it's kind of a sleeper which is ok too.

 

[96gt4.6]

That is my #1 complaint with my Whipple setup, unless you are full on into boost, there really isn't a lot of whine, and I have completely stock exhaust so the car is very quiet. In that same dyno video you will see a 5th gen with hash marks on the fender. That's an LS3 car with tune and full exhaust. Sounds like he will take the building down with as loud as it is, so I can only imagine supercharged! I'm sure that's why you cannot hear a whole lot of blower. If she's making the right boost, it's probably just the nature of the beast.

A cam will do wonders with boost, I think you mod plan looks great.

 

[Camaroguy]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/BSMAKgS6XXBo21Fw7
I don't know if that link will work and it was a horrible way to video sun was wrong and there's no room in the bay to record. Audio is there but doesn't do it justice lol.

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