ProCharger MAF location: Why the change?

[ProChargerTECH]

OK,...

First off, sorry its been so long since I have been on here... we have been crazy busy. All you boost junkies been ordering kits like crazy and we been also cranking out CARB EO items. But... anyways.

First things first... Is the MAF signal better in a tube, then the intercooler?

100% absolutely not. The intercooler location is one of the most stable signals you will ever get, when done correctly.
Often to get the same level of signal stability in a tube being blown through, requires honeycomb structures or air straighteners.
(yes, sometimes it works out... but with tight engine bays it's hard)

So...why the change for the MAF location?

#1 reason.....
Because people kept changing bypass valves and adding wastegates.

Every single time a person changes what kinda bypass valve they have, or the location of that bypass valve... it changed how the air enters the intercooler. Well, when the air enters different, then that changes how to flows across the core, and thus how it goes across the MAF sensor. What's that mean? That means every change in airflow would require a tune revision... (literally change your bypass valve, you would need to change tune)

Now with the MAF being relocated into a special tube, you can place whatever bypass valve you want onto your charge tube, or the pressure side of the intercooler! And no matter what bypass valve you run, there is no reason for a tune revision change. Making it easier for YOU, and for your TUNER

#2 reason....
Less tunes needed for people doing remote tuning.

Previously tuners had to have (3) different mass air curves for our systems on the S550 chassis... (HO intercooler, STG2 intercooler, GT350 intercooler) Whereas now, they will have 1 single MAF sensor table, no matter what system the customer has. That helps speed up the tuning process, now and down the road.


My personal 2018 Mustang... still has the MAF in the intercooler. Will I ever change it? Nope... no reason to.
Do I like the new location for my customers? Absolutely... its a win-win for everyone.




Hopefully that clears it up.
Erik



PS: The new tube isn't just a tube.... it actually got a special honeycomb structure built into it, to try make the MAF signal as stable as it was in the intercooler. The tube isn't fun to make, and it isn't cheap either lol.

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[Jay-rod427]

Well done. Make the not canned tune/system world a lot easier.

#blowercarsrule

 

[ahl395]

Thank you for the info!

Curious if the honeycomb thing inside the pipe you speak of interferes with airflow/boost at all? I'm guessing an immeasurable amount though.

I asked my tuner if they wanted me to move the MAF to the pipe when I added my intercooler-mounted wastegate as I thought that would disrupt the signal. He actually told me to leave it in the IC for better driveability and I have had no issues with it even with the wastegate. So it seems to be personal preference among tuners too.

 

[Whitedevil95]

Any pics of the new tube and location?

 

[whatsup62]

Any pics of the new tube and location?

No pic but it goes in the same spot as the current cold pipe, Between the 90 exiting the IC and the 90 on the TB. MAF is connected on the bottom of tube pointed down. Install the Maf in the tube before putting the tube on. The MAF extension that comes in the original kit is plenty long. The only thing I didn't like was the supplied block-off for the IC where the MAF is relocated from. It just didn't feel like it fit good. I compare it the MMR oil squinter block-offs. Those you actually have to press or tap into place , the block-off just kinda covers it up and is held on with two screws, didn't feel like a tight press fit.

 

[turnswrench]

No pic but it goes in the same spot as the current cold pipe, Between the 90 exiting the IC and the 90 on the TB. MAF is connected on the bottom of tube pointed down. Install the Maf in the tube before putting the tube on. The MAF extension that comes in the original kit is plenty long. The only thing I didn't like was the supplied block-off for the IC where the MAF is relocated from. It just didn't feel like it fit good. I compare it the MMR oil squinter block-offs. Those you actually have to press or tap into place , the block-off just kinda covers it up and is held on with two screws, didn't feel like a tight press fit.

What did you do to address that? I know what I did, curious to hear

 

[whatsup62]

Please share. I used epoxy.

 

[turnswrench]

Please share. I used epoxy.

Just black rtv. Wondering what the best way will be.

 

[Wolvee]

Translations by me.

OK,...

Prepare for a Polite lecture approved by your local HR Department.

Is the MAF signal better in a tube, then the intercooler?

100% absolutely not. The intercooler location is one of the most stable signals you will ever get, when done correctly.

Your Tuner Sucks.

Hopefully that clears it up.
Erik

The tube isn't fun to make, and it isn't cheap either lol.

I'm snarky so I laugh out Loud in order to hide my irritation of people saying something is wrong with my Companies product design.

***btw I love Procharger, I just find this reactive thread hilarious from Pro Tech.

 

[Toy Cobra]

This is the MAF in the tube. It made a vast improvement in drivability on my car once I changed to a larger bov. I have recommended it to everyone buying a new kit.

 

[Chris Barnes]

+1 here as well. My car just seems "happier" with the GT 350 MAF tube. I'm a cantankerous bastard and have had multiple tuners and am extremely particular in the drivability dept. The GT350 tube COMPLETELY eliminated my hot start issues that more than one tuning expert could NOT tune around. My car literally cold starts, hot starts and drives like a bone stock car. I don't pretend to know anything about anything other than what i've experienced. The car is just monumentally better now then before the switch to the new MAF location. Not trying to knock anyones knowledge here, but just stating what I've experienced on MY car. That being said, I'm not running the Pro-flow valve, nor the Big Red. I'm running a Tial BOV which for sure is a bit unique and perhaps not ideal. I think I'm basically telling everyone what ProCharger Tech is saying, which is that if you aren't running the cookie cutter setup, the GT350 setup is the best choice and just works.

 

[ProChargerTECH]

+1 here as well. My car just seems "happier" with the GT 350 MAF tube. I'm a cantankerous bastard and have had multiple tuners and am extremely particular in the drivability dept. The GT350 tube COMPLETELY eliminated my hot start issues that more than one tuning expert could NOT tune around. My car literally cold starts, hot starts and drives like a bone stock car. I don't pretend to know anything about anything other than what i've experienced. The car is just monumentally better now then before the switch to the new MAF location. Not trying to knock anyones knowledge here, but just stating what I've experienced on MY car. That being said, I'm not running the Pro-flow valve, nor the Big Red. I'm running a Tial BOV which for sure is a bit unique and perhaps not ideal. I think I'm basically telling everyone what ProCharger Tech is saying, which is that if you aren't running the cookie cutter setup, the GT350 setup is the best choice and just works.

Your post pretty much sums up the exact reason why I wanted the "change" to be made.

Mustang owners are NOT cookie cutter kinda dudes... We all want our cars to be different, and heck that applies to our forced induction as well.
Tuners enjoy cookie cutter things, cause that way its easier / faster / profitable for them.. and nothing wrong with that.

Just wanted to make it easier on everyone.

 

[watisthis]

This is the MAF in the tube. It made a vast improvement in drivability on my car once I changed to a larger bov. I have recommended it to everyone buying a new kit.

Where did you end up buying the maf relocation and block off plate from? @ProChargerTECH incase you can answer as well.

 

[ProChargerTECH]

Where did you end up buying the maf relocation and block off plate from? @ProChargerTECH incase you can answer as well.

If you go to the GT350 tube, we include it.

Also, it doesn't need to be a 1000% seal. Theres only like .0000000001 cfm that could sneak by that.
Heck even if you forgot to install the block off, it wouldn't even make a .25 psi of boost difference.

 

[DeadLoad]

You can get away with lower hp/boost levels. But once you step up to bigger blowers or pulley down then the problem will either start or become worse. The sensor needs atleast 3” of straight pipe or both sides to get a stable reading. Especially with 14+ psi. I bought some aftermarket sensor and mount then left the stock one in the ic as a plug. Problem solved.

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