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V6 - Saving up for Mods, got some questions.

MarkDMKC1974

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I don't believe you can use the shorty off road h with the long tubes, at least not without some fabrication (ie welding by a shop).

If the shop is well reviewed and you trust them, they could probably make something to get you between the longtubes and the catback. For my personal setup, I just had my shop cut out the cats and weld in some piping. If you're going the catless route, you'll want to get some O2 Sensor Defoulers as well. I went with the $15 ebay ones and have had to clear the CEL twice in 6 months.

You should get the tune at the same time as well, might have some issues running without it (although it will probably technically run).
So are you saying that the Catback will go straight to the long tube headers?
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So are you saying that the Catback will go straight to the long tube headers?
Look at the pictures I uploaded. You just buy the parts you need then go take them to an exhaust shop and have them install everything. They will fit it, weld it, and install it. The thing you need to decide is whether or not you want X-Pipe or H-Pipe. Personally, X-Pipe all day. You don't need to buy a pre-fabricated H-Pipe or X-pipe that matches to the headers. Yes, its easier to just get the headers and the matching H-pipe from say BBK that go together, but an exhaust shop will make something to fit if you go more custom and forgo the prefabricated piece. Look at like this too from a cost perspective. That H-pipe is like $250 and then the catted version is even more....the X-pipe in the picture I uploaded was $22.00. The saved money goes towards you applying Very High Temperature (VHT) paint (obtained from any AutoZone for like 10.00) and the exhaust shop welding it into your custom long-tube setup.

I can even give you links to the parts if you want, but you would need to wait till I am home and can access the websites
 

Nagare

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^ 100% what he said. The parts you would want to buy up front are the longtube headers and the mufflers. BUT you could also ask the shop if they can get them at a comparable price because they might make it cheaper if you order everything from them. My guys don't care and will be honest with me on parts, sometimes I bring my own if I find a great deal online instead.

Just make sure you go to a good shop (ask on local groups if you can) because some do great work that holds up, others do weird ass shit that you'll have to go pay for it a second time anyway.
 

MarkDMKC1974

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A parts list would be awesome. I just asked in the Kansas City thread to see if someone has some good options for shops to do this.
 

USMCtoARMY

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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Header-Long-Tube-BBK-Performance-Parts-fits-11-17-Ford-Mustang-3-7L-V6/113712394158?fits=Model:Mustang|Make:Ford&epid=214830629&hash=item1a79c96fae:g:7ygAAOSwCU1YqtBd:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!45750!US!-1

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1792-V...AOSwVupToDge:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!45750!US!-1

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-...Exhaust-Pipe/292423034969?hash=item4415c56859

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynomax-24...016108&hash=item5423433d5b:g:FxYAAOSwLopasvVI

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BORLA-40842S-Universal-S-Type-2-5-Round-Center-Center-Specialty-Muffler/121694931211?hash=item1c5595490b:g:3aoAAOSwLVZVlrKb&LH_All=1

All these links are for parts in the ORDER it would be installed as suggested in my first pictured setup. This doesn't include defoulers or extensions for the senors. I also didn't link you to Borlas that have tips included or are prefabricated for the car. This allows you to be able to pick tips u want as well. Just remember this is literally a completely custom option. The exhaust shop would have to create all the 2 1/2 piping needed to connect all the parts to complete the exhaust. However, you could get all the 2 1/4 versions of all these parts and much of the stock exhaust piping could be reused, but that's a waste to me if your upgrading the exhaust to begin with...Now below is the order in which you could piece together the Nagare version as shown in my second picture with a tru-x muffler/resonator.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Header-Long-Tube-BBK-Performance-Parts-fits-11-17-Ford-Mustang-3-7L-V6/113712394158?fits=Model:Mustang|Make:Ford&epid=214830629&hash=item1a79c96fae:g:7ygAAOSwCU1YqtBd:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!45750!US!-1

https://www.ebay.com/itm/11386-Magn...444772&hash=item468c71063a:g:kXUAAOSwZwdcG-3G

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BORLA-40842S-Universal-S-Type-2-5-Round-Center-Center-Specialty-Muffler/121694931211?hash=item1c5595490b:g:3aoAAOSwLVZVlrKb&LH_All=1

Again, not included is the defoulers, extensions, or tips. This would be a cheaper option too. The same applies to the piping with this as well. You either have it built out to 2 1/2 or use 2 1/4 parts to reuse stock exhaust piping.

The picture uploaded is for reference in understanding how the x-pipe on the first setup should be welded together with the resonators.

*Note: 2 1/4 is the stock exhaust piping for the v6. All the parts I listed have a 2 1/2 diameter piping. Its an upgrade and the same diameter as stock GT Mustangs. This is what i mean when talking these numbers and piping above.
FB_IMG_1541255960655.jpg
 
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Nagare

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I wonder how the sound of the universal S-Type sounds compared to the Mustang specific, they're different shapes. Also note that you'll need 2 of those because it is one per side.

And the Tru-X linked probably would work, but I used 12468 so I can guarantee that one fits the tunnel with no issues.
 

USMCtoARMY

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I wonder how the sound of the universal S-Type sounds compared to the Mustang specific, they're different shapes. Also note that you'll need 2 of those because it is one per side.

And the Tru-X linked probably would work, but I used 12468 so I can guarantee that one fits the tunnel with no issues.
These are a different style S type from the previous generation "Stingers" not "Sports". It's Borla they will sound great. The old FRPP exhaust used these in 2005-2009 Mustangs and they were awesome sounding. The tru X should work fine, but your probably right and should follow your part number. I know my Jones Exhaust version of the TRU-X fits, but it isn't as flat as it needs to be like the TRU-X and because of it being more oval/round it will scrape on low clearance areas.
 
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MarkDMKC1974

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Alright so this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-He...AOSwCU1YqtBd:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!45750!US!-1

Long tube headers goes right into the engine roger that.

Then piping needs to be made to two of these?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1792-V...AOSwVupToDge:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!45750!US!-1

That connect to one of these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MagnaFlow-...:7KsAAOSwhOxbv3KI:sc:USPSPriority!66204!US!-1

Then piping to two of these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynomax-24...016108&hash=item5423433d5b:g:FxYAAOSwLopasvVI

Finally piping to two of these :
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BORLA-4084...sh=item1c5595490b:g:3aoAAOSwLVZVlrKb&LH_All=1

Then I need to find tips. Plus defoulers to connect to the 02 sensors?

Am I understanding that right?
 

Nagare

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If you're using the Magnaflow 12468 (not the one you linked) you can probably skip on the Vibrant resonators/Dynomax bullets and only add them if you don't like the sound, the MF 12468 will take care of a LOT of rasp. I can't comment on the one you linked because that is smaller and probably doesn't have as much packing to fight the rasp.

Total with a Tru-X (imo) would be: BBK Longtubes, intermediate piping by the shop, Magnaflow 12468 linked above, intermediate piping by the shop, then 2 of the Borlas followed by your tip choice on each side.

These are the defoulers I used.

Use the part numbers from the links to find the best prices, won't always be ebay and don't be afraid of Amazon Warehouse - that's where I got my Tru-X for $75 (don't see anything special for it right now tho).
 

MarkDMKC1974

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If you're using the Magnaflow 12468 (not the one you linked) you can probably skip on the Vibrant resonators/Dynomax bullets and only add them if you don't like the sound, the MF 12468 will take care of a LOT of rasp. I can't comment on the one you linked because that is smaller and probably doesn't have as much packing to fight the rasp.

Total with a Tru-X (imo) would be: BBK Longtubes, intermediate piping by the shop, Magnaflow 12468 linked above, intermediate piping by the shop, then 2 of the Borlas followed by your tip choice on each side.

These are the defoulers I used.

Use the part numbers from the links to find the best prices, won't always be ebay and don't be afraid of Amazon Warehouse - that's where I got my Tru-X for $75 (don't see anything special for it right now tho).
Where does the Tru-X go into this? Is that the 12468 part?

Should I buy tubing as well before I go to the shop or will they have it? Also what do I look for as far as tips go?

Thanks to both of you, this is pretty awesome info!

EDIT : https://www.carid.com/magnaflow/sta...exhaust-tip-mpn-35136.html?singleid=294691702

Would those tips work?
 
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Nagare

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Tru-X is the 12468

Don't buy piping, the shop will have that. Just make sure they know what you're planning before you go in. You should go for 2.5" throughout, 304 stainless is best but depends what they work with.

Tips would work too, there's a lot of options out there for that too. My shop actually just started offering custom carbon fiber tips with their logo, not sure on their pricing though. Some powder coated blue and red, black chrome, etc. Might be best to stop by a shop first to see them in person but 4" single tip is a good fit.
 

MidwayJ

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Where does the Tru-X go into this?
You would use it instead of the fabricated x-pipe in the picture. And as already said, no need for the resonators, either.
 

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I'm just gonna repost this picture lol....

If you go with the TRU-X then you don't need get resonators as shown in this photo. HOWEVER, if you find the exhaust to be too loud or obnoxious and not to your liking you can have the exhaust shop weld the MINI-BULLET resonators in later to clean up the sound. Just remember an system exhaust will take a few hundred miles to break in before the sound settles to what you would hear driving daily.

Where does the Tru-X go into this? Is that the 12468 part?

Should I buy tubing as well before I go to the shop or will they have it? Also what do I look for as far as tips go?

Thanks to both of you, this is pretty awesome info!

EDIT : https://www.carid.com/magnaflow/sta...exhaust-tip-mpn-35136.html?singleid=294691702

Would those tips work?
Those tips could fit sure, because the exhaust shop would fit them, but they are short and not a common tip size. This makes it harder to change the tips out later for a different style if you want. Just make sure when choosing exhaust tips make sure that they are also 2 1/2 inlet diameter to match the Borlas. The ones you link are the appropriate size. There are literally hundreds of different tips to choose from. I hate straight cut or non-rolled edge rolled tips. I prefer dual walled slant or angled exhaust tips. Additionally, you can get tips that will need to be welded to the mufflers, ones that comes with clamps, or ones with built in clamps. The only difference is buying sets with clamps just means you can change your tips out easily if you want to go a different direction later on. Here is a link two a couple of different versions of tips I was talking about just so you have a visual reference for designs (eBay has a huge selection):

ROLLED EDGE SLANT CUT BLACK TIPS 2 1/2in Inlet 4in Outlet - https://www.amazon.com/ECCPP-Diesel...exhaust+tips&qid=1557386170&s=gateway&sr=8-18

DUAL WALLED ANGLED TIPS - https://www.amazon.com/NETAMI-NT-25...=B07GJSJCZP&psc=1&refRID=PXF1JQMD633TJN5ER36H
Capture 3.webp
 
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MarkDMKC1974

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I'm just gonna repost this picture lol....

If you go with the TRU-X then you don't need get resonators as shown in this photo. HOWEVER, if you find the exhaust to be too loud or obnoxious and not to your liking you can have the exhaust shop weld the MINI-BULLET resonators in later to clean up the sound. Just remember an system exhaust will take a few hundred miles to break in before the sound settles to what you would hear driving daily.



Those tips could fit sure, because the exhaust shop would fit them, but they are short and not a common tip size. This makes it harder to change the tips out later for a different style if you want. Just make sure when choosing exhaust tips make sure that they are also 2 1/2 inlet diameter to match the Borlas. The ones you link are the appropriate size. There are literally hundreds of different tips to choose from. I hate straight cut or non-rolled edge rolled tips. I prefer dual walled slant or angled exhaust tips. Additionally, you can get tips that will need to be welded to the mufflers, ones that comes with clamps, or ones with built in clamps. The only difference is buying sets with clamps just means you can change your tips out easily if you want to go a different direction later on. Here is a link two a couple of different versions of tips I was talking about just so you have a visual reference for designs (eBay has a huge selection):

ROLLED EDGE SLANT CUT BLACK TIPS 2 1/2in Inlet 4in Outlet - https://www.amazon.com/ECCPP-Diesel...exhaust+tips&qid=1557386170&s=gateway&sr=8-18

DUAL WALLED ANGLED TIPS - https://www.amazon.com/NETAMI-NT-25...=B07GJSJCZP&psc=1&refRID=PXF1JQMD633TJN5ER36H
Capture 3.webp
Thanks alot man! I figured the Tru-X sat in the middle and I was right for once!

Now just gotta find a good shop here in Kansas City!
 

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Thanks alot man! I figured the Tru-X sat in the middle and I was right for once!

Now just gotta find a good shop here in Kansas City!
Oh! and Don't forget a TUNE IS A MUST FOR LONG-TUBES TO GET GOOD GAINS!! When you buy your tuner and tune it will ask for all your mods. Now, just because it is base line tuned for the long-tubes you will still need to do some data logging after putting a few hundred miles on the car for the car to learn the new tune. After that you datalog and send the logs to your tuner and they will adjust the tune if necessary.
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