V6 Drivetrain Questions for DD/Autocross

[CobaltFilly]

Hey, thanks. No drone at all. I have 4 resonators installed to keep the drone down. My car sounds almost the same as when it has the cats. I did it for the performance gains.

Wow, 4 resonators! That is crazy. I need to dyno my car, I am curious how much I am making to the wheel. As far as I know, I am the only person using spintech mufflers on the S550 V6, not sure if that is a good or bad thing but it sounds way better than literally any other exhaust I tried while sacrificing no power at all.

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[Dieval]

Wow, 4 resonators! That is crazy. I need to dyno my car, I am curious how much I am making to the wheel. As far as I know, I am the only person using spintech mufflers on the S550 V6, not sure if that is a good or bad thing but it sounds way better than literally any other exhaust I tried while sacrificing no power at all.

Hahaha yes. My first setup it was a straight pipe. It lasted one day only. Went to the shop and installed 2 “flowmaster like” resonator where the mufflers were. A year later when decided to go catless, as the shop lnows that i cant stand drone they installed two resonator before the X pipe. These are like one feet long with some texture inside that do magic. You can tell my car is catless only for the smell of fumes on a cold day.

 

[CobaltFilly]

Hahaha yes. My first setup it was a straight pipe. It lasted one day only. Went to the shop and installed 2 “flowmaster like” resonator where the mufflers were. A year later when decided to go catless, as the shop lnows that i cant stand drone they installed two resonator before the X pipe. These are like one feet long with some texture inside that do magic. You can tell my car is catless only for the smell of fumes on a cold day.

Very nice, sounds like your shop knows you and what you want/need, the exhaust guys I go to are the same. I hope they feel as accomplished as I do about the sound not being like VQ or trumpet-like the drone is negligible, and the exhaust goes nearly silent in the normal city driving range of rpms, and practically has a deep howl during anything else.

 

[MidwayJ]

Thank you for this info, you rock! Unfortunately in Cali none of the FI options (at all) are CARB legal. I am not looking to get my car impounded (and the cops in my small town are very crush-car-happy. I live nowhere near major cities with tuner shops too, though I 100% would do my own install if I could pass visi inspection ;)

I agree with Nagare regarding the NA build. Since you want to autocross I'd pursue suspension mods instead. My V6 handled a lot better with only minimum drop springs, GT PP1 dampers, and a BMR cradle lockout kit. Check out the suspension and autocross sections of the forum for good info for your intended use of the car.

Just out of curiosity do they crush cars just for having aftermarket parts on them, or does there have to be reckless driving involved?

 

[CobaltFilly]

I agree with Nagare regarding the NA build. Since you want to autocross I'd pursue suspension mods instead. My V6 handled a lot better with only minimum drop springs, GT PP1 dampers, and a BMR cradle lockout kit. Check out the suspension and autocross sections of the forum for good info for your intended use of the car.

Just out of curiosity do they crush cars just for having aftermarket parts on them, or does there have to be reckless driving involved?

Okay thank you, suspension it is. Are the 17” stock tires with some brand new Michelins okay? I want EC-7s later on, but these fresh meats are good for now, how bad are the stock 17s?

Will do suspension and some Z26 Powerstop brake pads before anything else.

In my area, they crush for reckless obviously (no, I do not encourage nor condone in any form of activity like this, I am too old for it myself too).
I am a little wary of smog bexause it occurs every two years, so I want it to be as easy and painless as possible, thereby I have not procharged yet. So NA build was my way to go I think, yes?

State ref if caught with non carb items, and if you are a truck and have modified exhaust, it gets towed.

 

[TeeLew]

If boosting, make sure you go procharger. Its the safest, most proven track record, and more or less also plug and play.



This however is the most important information I have received. I suggest stay with 3.15 gears. I myself will be procharging in about 3 years, and he says don't waste money that could be spent on boost. So for you, get the boost and skip everything else. For me its a little different because of where I live and the (really really egregious) laws that are in place.

He's going to want to run at least a 3.31, because you need to run at least that to be able to fit the Torsen differential. The Torsen is a lot better than the Traction Lok, especially for AutoX/Track.

If I were you, I'd really spend some time getting weight off the car and tire on it. That's where you'll find time around an AutoX. The V6 with 275 HP, pretty decent torque and a relatively (Compared to the V8) light front end could be a very competitive AutoX car.

I've done basically the same thing with an Eco. I can run around a parking lot every bit as fast as a V8 car. I've got nothing for them on a long straight, but I've got a massive advantage with the front end grip in my car. Yours is the same story. Shed that weight.

 

[MidwayJ]

Are the 17” stock tires with some brand new Michelins okay? I want EC-7s later on, but these fresh meats are good for now, how bad are the stock 17s?

What kind of Michelins are they? If they're Pilot Sport 4S you'll be fine. You'll ultimately have less grip at the limit than wider tires, but they should be good enough to hold you over until you upgrade the wheels.

 

[TeeLew]

Okay thank you, suspension it is. Are the 17” stock tires with some brand new Michelins okay? I want EC-7s later on, but these fresh meats are good for now, how bad are the stock 17s?

Not even close. You'll need 18x11 rims with 295/305/315's and 200 TW tires. You'll also need GT brakes.

 

[CobaltFilly]

He's going to want to run at least a 3.31, because you need to run at least that to be able to fit the Torsen differential. The Torsen is a lot better than the Traction Lok, especially for AutoX/Track.

If I were you, I'd really spend some time getting weight off the car and tire on it. That's where you'll find time around an AutoX. The V6 with 275 HP, pretty decent torque and a relatively (Compared to the V8) light front end could be a very competitive AutoX car.

I've done basically the same thing with an Eco. I can run around a parking lot every bit as fast as a V8 car. I've got nothing for them on a long straight, but I've got a massive advantage with the front end grip in my car. Yours is the same story. Shed that weight.

Thanks for the reply! I will look into getting diff upgrade (probably just gears as a Torsen is super expensive it seems, just upgrading my gears to 3.73 is $1200 cheapest where I live, and I feel something I don't want to mess with myself!) I will definitely look at cutting weight more, I am shedding it slowly (both the car and myself haha)

What kind of Michelins are they? If they're Pilot Sport 4S you'll be fine. You'll ultimately have less grip at the limit than wider tires, but they should be good enough to hold you over until you upgrade the wheels.

The only one's available I could find/that could be ordered through someone putting them on for me that fit the 17 stocks were Michelin Crossclimate 2 AS...probably nowhere near as good...250 miles on them so far.
Thankfully I can't even call myself a novice at HPDE/Autocross...my first ever event won't be for another month!!!

Not even close. You'll need 18x11 rims with 295/305/315's and 200 TW tires. You'll also need GT brakes.

I will work on saving for better wheels and tires... I will have to run these for now I guess. Also do I *need* GT brakes, or are they just a nice upgrade? Again this is mainly for daily driving and I will be getting Powerstop Z26s for the current stock brake system.


[Please understand I am not arguing at all on any of these responses, just asking lots of questions from those who know more than I! I am looking to learn as much as possible, wrong or right at first until I can make my own clear decisions! Much appreciated.]

 

[Dieval]

Thanks for the reply! I will look into getting diff upgrade (probably just gears as a Torsen is super expensive it seems, just upgrading my gears to 3.73 is $1200 cheapest where I live, and I feel something I don't want to mess with myself!) I will definitely look at cutting weight more, I am shedding it slowly (both the car and myself haha)



The only one's available I could find/that could be ordered through someone putting them on for me that fit the 17 stocks were Michelin Crossclimate 2 AS...probably nowhere near as good...250 miles on them so far.
Thankfully I can't even call myself a novice at HPDE/Autocross...my first ever event won't be for another month!!!



I will work on saving for better wheels and tires... I will have to run these for now I guess. Also do I *need* GT brakes, or are they just a nice upgrade? Again this is mainly for daily driving and I will be getting Powerstop Z26s for the current stock brake system.


[Please understand I am not arguing at all on any of these responses, just asking lots of questions from those who know more than I! I am looking to learn as much as possible, wrong or right at first until I can make my own clear decisions! Much appreciated.]

GT brakes is a must. I upgraded it with steel lines and I’ve manage to archive 1G with the braking accelerometer. This was with Falken ZE960 UHP tyres.

 

[CobaltFilly]

GT brakes is a must. I upgraded it with steel lines and I’ve manage to archive 1G with the braking accelerometer. This was with Falken ZE960 UHP tyres.

15-17 year models? 4 piston regulars or 6 piston brembos? 4 off of a non-performance pack? Let's start with fronts, and can you show me an example maybe of what to look for/price/etc.? Is there a decent bang-for-buck aftermarket I should go for, or stick to a decently priced set of one of the stock options? Will one of these fit inside the 17 inch rims while I set aside money for better wheels/tires? Thank you for your time.

 

[Dieval]

15-17 year models? 4 piston regulars or 6 piston brembos? 4 off of a non-performance pack? Let's start with fronts, and can you show me an example maybe of what to look for/price/etc.? Is there a decent bang-for-buck aftermarket I should go for, or stick to a decently priced set of one of the stock options? Will one of these fit inside the 17 inch rims while I set aside money for better wheels/tires? Thank you for your time.

I went with 4 piston GT, those are plug and play. I dont know id they fit in 17s, theres no GT with 17 from the factory.

Afternarket calippers I have only seem brembos and willwood which both of them are expensive and in my opinion not worthy for the v6 power range.

Regard prices, id have seen in FB marketplace for around 250 bucks, you can find it for less (Florida). Keep in mind that you also need the rotors.

if you can find brembos, I think that you need to upgrade the brake master cylinder as well.

 

[5550snotamerc]

I went with 4 piston GT, those are plug and play. I dont know id they fit in 17s, theres no GT with 17 from the factory.

Afternarket calippers I have only seem brembos and willwood which both of them are expensive and in my opinion not worthy for the v6 power range.

Regard prices, id have seen in FB marketplace for around 250 bucks, you can find it for less (Florida). Keep in mind that you also need the rotors.

if you can find brembos, I think that you need to upgrade the brake master cylinder as well.

For brakes look for Performance Pack takeoffs in the classifieds here and other forums. You might even be able to find Torsen diffs too.

edit-that was supposed to be @CobaltFilly

 

[TeeLew]

I'm going to back off of some of what I'm telling you. I don't think you want to AutoX seriously? You just might do it from time to time?

I think the 4-piston/14" brakes are the minimum any of these cars should have. I'd give you a pair of calipers if you were in So Cal.

 

[TeeLew]

If you do the rear gear, then buy an entire loaded rear housing from a wrecked car. That's the easiest (and cheapest) way to swap, by far. If you're going boosted, get an iron one.

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