V6 Drivetrain Questions for DD/Autocross

[CobaltFilly]

Didn’t realize I shoulda posted in V6, so here we are reposting.

I own a 2016 V6 S550, and will be upgrading from the stock 3.15 to 3.55 or 3.73 gears very soon using a trusted mechanic shop. I want to prep this car (my DD) into an occasional track day car. She has x pipe resonator delete, spintech mufflers (beautiful sound compared to anything else I have heard on V6s), BBK shortys, and a 91 tune from AMR. My questions for you peeps are as follows:

1) I am debating getting a one-piece aluminum driveshaft for when I swap gears. Is this “necessary”? Or is the stock the better choice? Should I worry about the driveshaft blowing through my center console or something even though I am still running 17 inch tires, or is the v6 two piece driveshaft problem a myth in the 2015+ models? Do the EB/V8/V6 all share the same shaft?

2) 3.55 or 3.73 gears? Daily driver, lots of city, some highway, occasional rare track day (hopefully less rare later on). I might go boosted (turbo more likely then procharged) later later on, if I can get out of commiefornia. Full N/A build post later on perhaps.

Thanks!

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[Nagare]

1) driveshaft was a S197 issue, S550 is fine. I never had issues with mine and never saw it as an issue for the Procharged or turbo'd folks on the FB groups

2) 3.73 Torsen pumpkin swap if you can, might be harder to find now but there were occasionally deals to be had and it makes a huge difference coming from the 3.15s. That said, once you're boosted it is a different ballgame and they might make you more likely to be in boost...

For the full N/A build...I'd say it's a waste and just save for boost. The shorty headers, ported intakes, throttle body, etc are all money that would be better spent on boost.

 

[TeeLew]

Auto or manual? That will effect your gearing choice.

 

[CobaltFilly]

Auto or manual? That will effect your gearing choice.

6r80 Auto

 

[CobaltFilly]

1) driveshaft was a S197 issue, S550 is fine. I never had issues with mine and never saw it as an issue for the Procharged or turbo'd folks on the FB groups

2) 3.73 Torsen pumpkin swap if you can, might be harder to find now but there were occasionally deals to be had and it makes a huge difference coming from the 3.15s. That said, once you're boosted it is a different ballgame and they might make you more likely to be in boost...

For the full N/A build...I'd say it's a waste and just save for boost. The shorty headers, ported intakes, throttle body, etc are all money that would be better spent on boost.

Thank you for this info, you rock! Unfortunately in Cali none of the FI options (at all) are CARB legal. I am not looking to get my car impounded (and the cops in my small town are very crush-car-happy. I live nowhere near major cities with tuner shops too, though I 100% would do my own install if I could pass visi inspection ;)

 

[TeeLew]

6r80 Auto

Then, at least while you're N/A, you'll want as short a gear as you can put up with on the freeway.

 

[Dieval]

Hi,

Im looking for advice as well I have a 2015 auto, its my DD I do around 50% of the driving on highway. Im looking to upgrade gears, im between buying the ford performance pumpking with 3.55 or build my current pumpkin with 3.73 and a loki.

 

[CobaltFilly]

Hi,

Im looking for advice as well I have a 2015 auto, its my DD I do around 50% of the driving on highway. Im looking to upgrade gears, im between buying the ford performance pumpking with 3.55 or build my current pumpkin with 3.73 and a loki.

First off, another auto V6er looking at upgrades! Love to see it, lets chat sometime!

Secondly, it depends on your plans. Are you looking to track it at all, or is your DD *just* a DD? Here is what I have learned after researching a lot:

If tracking and not looking at procharging later, 3.73 (or 4.10 in S197s, haven’t seen anyone go 4.10s in s550 but that would be wild!).

If procharging later, stay with 3.15 or 3.55.

If its strictly your DD, and not used on track…I bet sticking with 3.15s would be good because better gas mileage (only 2-4mpg better…but it all adds up quick!

 

[Dieval]

First off, another auto V6er looking at upgrades! Love to see it, lets chat sometime!

Secondly, it depends on your plans. Are you looking to track it at all, or is your DD *just* a DD? Here is what I have learned after researching a lot:

If tracking and not looking at procharging later, 3.73 (or 4.10 in S197s, haven’t seen anyone go 4.10s in s550 but that would be wild!).

If procharging later, stay with 3.15 or 3.55.

If its strictly your DD, and not used on track…I bet sticking with 3.15s would be good because better gas mileage (only 2-4mpg better…but it all adds up quick!

Its my DD with ocasional track days. Thinking of boosting in around 1 year more or less. Myself im more convinced of the FordP 3.55 pumpkin cause is just plug and play, less shop time

 

[CobaltFilly]

Its my DD with ocasional track days. Thinking of boosting in around 1 year more or less. Myself im more convinced of the FordP 3.55 pumpkin cause is just plug and play, less shop time

If boosting, make sure you go procharger. Its the safest, most proven track record, and more or less also plug and play.

1) driveshaft was a S197 issue, S550 is fine. I never had issues with mine and never saw it as an issue for the Procharged or turbo'd folks on the FB groups

2) 3.73 Torsen pumpkin swap if you can, might be harder to find now but there were occasionally deals to be had and it makes a huge difference coming from the 3.15s. That said, once you're boosted it is a different ballgame and they might make you more likely to be in boost...

For the full N/A build...I'd say it's a waste and just save for boost. The shorty headers, ported intakes, throttle body, etc are all money that would be better spent on boost.

This however is the most important information I have received. I suggest stay with 3.15 gears. I myself will be procharging in about 3 years, and he says don't waste money that could be spent on boost. So for you, get the boost and skip everything else. For me its a little different because of where I live and the (really really egregious) laws that are in place.

 

[Dieval]

If boosting, make sure you go procharger. Its the safest, most proven track record, and more or less also plug and play.



This however is the most important information I have received. I suggest stay with 3.15 gears. I myself will be procharging in about 3 years, and he says don't waste money that could be spent on boost. So for you, get the boost and skip everything else. For me its a little different because of where I live and the (really really egregious) laws that are in place.

Noted. Im already at max N/A pushing 275 whp. I haven’t push the trigger on the pro charger cause of course, money. Wondering what can be the best course of action if going boosted or just get a GT.

Also, one of the thing more complicated for me its im not at the states, Im at Dominican Republic and I think theres just 3 boosted cyclones on the whole country

 

[CobaltFilly]

Noted. Im already at max N/A pushing 275 whp. I haven’t push the trigger on the pro charger cause of course, money. Wondering what can be the best course of action if going boosted or just get a GT.

Also, one of the thing more complicated for me its im not at the states, Im at Dominican Republic and I think theres just 3 boosted cyclones on the whole country

What are your upgrades so far?

I see yes, I would go GT honestly...coming from someone who will never get rid of my V6 but will be buying a second mustang (that is a GT). If you have trouble with the affordability of a procharger, and it would cost more on top of your car then trading in and getting a GT, get a GT.

I see it this way...as far as costs go around for me.

2015-2017 V6 with 20k miles + Procharger price = $28-30k.
Cheapest 2015-2017 V8 with 20k miles (at the time of my original purchasing of said V6 a couple of years ago) = $33k. (Plus exactly 2x higher insurance rate from my provider, this is with a clean driving record for years and years).

I wanted a vehicle 2015+, and the mustang cut all the corners of what I wanted. (I dislike the S197 body-style, sue me).

V6 Procharged is worth it (to ME, not to most people), plus I love modifying and finding things wrong that I can fix and learning more about this hobby of mine.

I keep it realistic in the fact I am not trying to drag race a GT or be faster then one. I want to build a V6 that can work it at the autocross/HPDE track and still be my DD. That's it. And I enjoy it and have fun!

(Currently saving for procharger, per Nagare's recommendations!)

 

[Dieval]

I have for now:
JLT CAI
GT TB
BBK shorty headers
Catless with custom exaust
MPT tune
Some steeda suspension goodies
With all of these im pushing 275 whp.

My pros are if I get boosted, im gonna be running next to the GTs and EB guys with big turbo with some really good mpg on normal driving. Also I have a few comestic and suspension mods allready, that If i switch to a GT is gonna be to start over all again.

My concern is actually to spend 10-12k on a procharger that will not reflect on my car resale value. My car currently has 72k miles.

 

[CobaltFilly]

I have for now:
JLT CAI
GT TB
BBK shorty headers
Catless with custom exaust
MPT tune
Some steeda suspension goodies
With all of these im pushing 275 whp.

My pros are if I get boosted, im gonna be running next to the GTs and EB guys with big turbo with some really good mpg on normal driving. Also I have a few comestic and suspension mods allready, that If i switch to a GT is gonna be to start over all again.

My concern is actually to spend 10-12k on a procharger that will not reflect on my car resale value. My car currently has 72k miles.

Ouch to running catless. I hope the drone isn't too bad!

If you still have your stock parts, I would return to stock as much as possible, sell the parts and car separately, then go get your GT. Keep the steeda suspension items and transfer to your GT. Just my humble opinion if you have trouble finding the procharger kit for $8k USD or less.

I am sure someone else might have a different outlook though!

 

[Dieval]

Hey, thanks. No drone at all. I have 4 resonators installed to keep the drone down. My car sounds almost the same as when it has the cats. I did it for the performance gains.

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