Make Mustang More Stable.

[Slow6]

Do you know if the GT350R has a different alignment setting from the factory? I wonder what those numbers are.
OK, so zero toe up is something I will look at. I def notice the steering in the highway is more darty that I would like (since I made the toe out change), at the same time, I'd hate to kill the turn in.

Yeah, the extended ball joints and bumpsteer kit in my next (and hopefully last) mod. That with the alignment.

I've been sorely tempted by Giro disc lightweight rotors (its a mod that sheds 20 pounds of unsprung rotational weight in the front) but the price just makes me stay away (~1000).

Alignment Sheet for 2016 MY mustang base to shelby

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[Bluemustang]

Do you know if the GT350R has a different alignment setting from the factory? I wonder what those numbers are.
OK, so zero toe up is something I will look at. I def notice the steering in the highway is more darty that I would like (since I made the toe out change), at the same time, I'd hate to kill the turn in.

Yeah, the extended ball joints and bumpsteer kit in my next (and hopefully last) mod. That with the alignment.

I've been sorely tempted by Giro disc lightweight rotors (its a mod that sheds 20 pounds of unsprung rotational weight in the front) but the price just makes me stay away (~1000).

The GT350R alignment settings are less than you would want to run. For the street, -1.8 front camber is a good place to be. A little toe in can help stability and tramlining a bit. The front camber curve stinks, so you need more for max front grip. Also a stiffer front bar is a good thing to have. -1.5 camber in the rear is good compromise between cornering and rear traction.

With zero toe up front my steering is responsive and good turn in on the street. It's good at high speed but a little sensitive like yours is. A little toe in would make that better tbh. But it's a balance and you have to give up something. I would try 0.00 toe or 0.02-0.03 per side and see if you like that.

Our setups are fairly similar. Our front rates are close enough to be the same and my rears are only a tad firmer. These are the specs I ended up at.

 

[Pauliejr]

A lot of great list of information.

So what do you guys think my next steps/mods should be. Besides my alignment. Also any alignment suggestions?

 

[NightmareMoon]

A lot of great list of information.

So what do you guys think my next steps/mods should be. Besides my alignment. Also any alignment suggestions?

Alignment first, then see if you’re happy. It sounds like thats possibly your main issue.

 

[Roadway 5.0]

Yeah, the extended ball joints and bumpsteer kit in my next (and hopefully last) mod. That with the alignment.

I have immense confidence this will be your last suspension mod. The roll center correction/bumpsteer kit is truly the missing link in getting the connected feeling from a lower car. For situational awareness, I am officially complete with my suspension upgrades now that I've installed these and slapped-on the new tires. There is no way I could alter the car more to make it any better suited for a performance street / long distance adventure machine.

...a tune or blower down the road, though, is possible .

- Mike

 

[valentinoamoro]

I have immense confidence this will be your last suspension mod. The roll center correction/bumpsteer kit is truly the missing link in getting the connected feeling from a lower car. For situational awareness, I am officially complete with my suspension upgrades now that I've installed these and slapped-on the new tires. There is no way I could alter the car more to make it any better suited for a performance street / long distance adventure machine.

...a tune or blower down the road, though, is possible .

- Mike

LOL! I have the tune and recommend it, esp for folks on 93 octane. Here in WA state our gas sucks, so I was getting some knock and it took some work to tune it out (with Lund). The car was pulling timing so I dont get the full value (although its still perfectly good!).

Blower no way for me. The second biggest issue with this car is the front weight bias and high front CG due to the large motor (the biggest is the rear suspension slop). I've spent a lot of time trying to remedy that (lighter wheels, removing sound tube, engine cover etc). I'd go for a lighter battery if there wasnt significant trade offs. Adding more weight up high, no way!

That said, if your build is to compete with hell-cats etc, its a no brainer. Esp for those of us with 15-17s, most people dont know that our Coyote's have steel liners in the alumnium block (Vs plasma coated). They can take massive boost. Reminds me of the 2JZ in the old Supra's (although those were full iron blocks which were heavy as hell). So not boosting our Coyote's is def leaving something on the table. LOL! Tradeoffs!

I would not boost the 18s+ as they have thin plasma coated liners, which suffer less thermal expansion differences but are very very thin.

 

[valentinoamoro]

Alignment Sheet for 2016 MY mustang base to shelby

Any idea why the GT PP front caster > GT350 R > GT350? Seems weird. More caster increases steering self centering right??
Also, for toe, it seems GT350R > (more toe out) > GT PP > GT350?

 

[BmacIL]

Any idea why the GT PP front caster > GT350 R > GT350? Seems weird. More caster increases steering self centering right??
Also, for toe, it seems GT350R > (more toe out) > GT PP > GT350?

More caster tends to be easier to drive/less twitchy/responsive.

 

[DUNDEM]

I got a similar setup on a 15EBM PP

Koni yellows all around
Eibach pro springs
Cradle alignment kit
Steeda rear shock mounts
Seeda subframe bushings.
Steedas sway bars and endlinks
Steeda Kbrace up front underneath.


I had the sketch feeling until I firmed up the compression of the rear shocks. After that the car can dance with the best sport cars on the street between 80-120 with confidence.

Can elaborate a little on the feeling? Does feel any different and how when accelerating or decelerating when at 100mph?

 

[Pauliejr]

I got a similar setup on a 15EBM PP

Koni yellows all around
Eibach pro springs
Cradle alignment kit
Steeda rear shock mounts
Seeda subframe bushings.
Steedas sway bars and endlinks
Steeda Kbrace up front underneath.


I had the sketch feeling until I firmed up the compression of the rear shocks. After that the car can dance with the best sport cars on the street between 80-120 with confidence.

Can elaborate a little on the feeling? Does feel any different and how when accelerating or decelerating when at 100mph?

Just doesn’t feel stable or exactly safe at speeds. I’m changing to BMR springs I had the CJPP springs. Also will be doing bmr cradle lockout as well as steeda bump stops before my alignment.

Beside the unsafe front end feel the rear seems bouncy and when I go over bumps especially when turning the rear end is very shift and feels like it’s jumping out from underneath me and jumping side to side.

I also have steeda shock mounts as well as differential lockout and bushings.

I think a lot of what I’m changing and adding will help especially after my proper alignment.

I HOPE

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