Breakup with turbos over 14psi HELP!!

[tsloms]

I installed a Boostworks base kit with Comp 6062's and 4.5" thick intercooler onto my 2016 Mustang GT. Previously I was running a gen 2 Whipple at 17psi and it ran perfectly.

Here is a list of engine mods:
18 intake manifold
NGK 6510's gapped to .028" currently
ID1050's with a triple 465 Fore system. I'm running 1 pump all the time and switch on the extra 2 with a Hobbs switch at 5psi of boost. At that time fuel psi rises slightly from 55 to 60psi.
Livernois valve springs (they say they are almost similar to the PAC 1234X springs)

Per Lund and Boostworks suggestions I've swapped out my valve springs with some stiffer springs but it doesn't seem like its improved on my breakup at all.

Yesterday I got it dynoed. The lowest run was about 10psi, middle is 13psi, and the top was 16psi but it was breaking up like crazy which can be seen on the graph. Even the middle run seems to be dropping off too much on the top.

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[Dominant1]

Are you getting any codes like p0300 random misfire? Your Spark plug gap may need to be tighter with 16lbs of boost..

 

[tsloms]

Are you getting any codes like p0300 random misfire? Your Spark plug gap may need to be tighter with 16lbs of boost..

I thought about tightening them up to .025”. I can give it a shot this weeekend.

 

[Ponderthis]

Make 100% sure the porcelain on the plugs is not cracked!! I Had the same issue on brand new plugs and chased it for a week, Pull all plugs and inspect porcelain, if they have cracks it arcs in the plug valley and causes break up!

 

[Dominant1]

^^^ that would definitely cause some break up. these plugs are so fragile....

 

[Phils15GT]

I had similar issue with my 15 GT. I was making over 800 wheel and when I put new plugs in, the problem went away.

 

[tsloms]

I’ve tried another set of plugs with the same result but when I gap them I’ll check the porcelain very carefully.

 

[Slamdcoop0428]

I know you said you did valve springs. No posiblity you are off a tooth on the timing right?

 

[tsloms]

I know you said you did valve springs. No posiblity you are off a tooth on the timing right?

I don’t believe so. It ran the same before I did valve springs as well so I think it is on. It doesn’t throw any codes for timing being off or the misfire.

How much boost are you running to hit your dyno numbers?

 

[RubyRedBoost]

Clutch? My graph looked similar, it was the RST smokin'

 

[tsloms]

Clutch? My graph looked similar, it was the RST smokin'

I’m running an RXT through a TR6060. I’ll post a video a bit later showing the dyno run. It sounded terrible.

 

[aleccolin]

Where is your current boost reference relative to the Whipple setup? Might not necessarily be apples to apples just comparing the boost reading. How does your actual mass flow compare? I’m betting it’s higher even at a lower boost ref and you’re getting spark blowout. I’ve had that happen on turbo cars just going from a daytime drive to night when the DA is much lower. Plugs & gap first, then check each coil and maybe upgrade.

 

[RubyRedBoost]

I’m running an RXT through a TR6060. I’ll post a video a bit later showing the dyno run. It sounded terrible.

Oh yeah, you're fine there.

 

[tsloms]

Where is your current boost reference relative to the Whipple setup? Might not necessarily be apples to apples just comparing the boost reading. How does your actual mass flow compare? I’m betting it’s higher even at a lower boost ref and you’re getting spark blowout. I’ve had that happen on turbo cars just going from a daytime drive to night when the DA is much lower. Plugs & gap first, then check each coil and maybe upgrade.

I still have my logs with the Whipple so I could compare the airflow previously compared to now. I haven't looked yet. With the Whipple I sampled at a port at the driver's side front of the Whipple manifold which is after the intercooler. Currently with the 18 manifold I'm taking it off of the port on top of the intake just after the throttle body which also feeds the power brakes. I'm feeding a vacuum block and sharing it from there but I'm feeding the block with a 3/8" line for adequate volume. I've vacuum tested the entire system and found a couple small leaks near the wastegates but currently the vacuum is sealed up tight.

On a side note I'm using a Gforce 2 boost controller and the solenoid is on the driver's side. The vacuum lines are teed off on the driver's side and sent across to the passenger side. Is there any concern about a difference in vacuum line length and response?

 

[3beeps]

Obligatory "FUCK BOOST WORKS" comment I have to make.

I have my NGK 6510 plugs gapped to 0.025", as per Lund's recommendation. That could help your issue.

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