Prepping a stock low mile gen 2 coyote for high boost

[pwnall1337]

I don't see a lot of gen 2 coyote's breaking rods or cracking pistons (no detonation. 900 rwhp seems doable on a stock gen 2 coyote and there are a lot of people doing it. From things that I've heard from a shop or two weak points that are past 850rwhp is that the heads start to lift. How can we address this? Will arp head studs do the trick?

Two reasonable coyote engine mods for 16-20psi of boost I'm thinking are the following:

Updated List of recommended parts.

OPG
Crankshaft sprocket
ARP head studs
Higher pressure rated valve springs (higher than 67lbs closed)

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[Crackerjack17]

Timing gear? You mean the crankshaft gear/sprocket? You have to remove it to change the OPG so why wouldn't you?

 

[2qwk4ya]

This was a quote from another thread.

But if your going to do studs you might as well do the rest of these things. I know I will when I have my heads off.

While the car is apart we suggest the MMR Billet head dowels, these help prevent the heads moving around on the spring style dowels supplied form the factory. These make a huge difference in the engines ability to retain a headgasket and we use them on applications over 50psi! You can find them here: http://www.modularmotorsportsracing....roducts_id=952

Also, while it is apart, you would be silly not to change the following parts:

Oil Pump Gear
Crankshaft gear
secondary Chains
Chain tensioner reverse bracket



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[pwnall1337]

you need to do the timing to do the oil pump gear?

 

[MyLilPony]

you need to do the timing to do the oil pump gear?

Yep

 

[jhatley7]

8k 18 psi
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81384

FYI to do head studs you will also have to time, so might as well do the crank gear.

 

[pwnall1337]

This was a quote from another thread.

But if your going to do studs you might as well do the rest of these things. I know I will when I have my heads off.

While the car is apart we suggest the MMR Billet head dowels, these help prevent the heads moving around on the spring style dowels supplied form the factory. These make a huge difference in the engines ability to retain a headgasket and we use them on applications over 50psi! You can find them here: http://www.modularmotorsportsracing....roducts_id=952

Also, while it is apart, you would be silly not to change the following parts:

Oil Pump Gear
Crankshaft gear
secondary Chains
Chain tensioner reverse bracket



.

Can someone explains why we need to swap out the secondary chains? Are you assuming the motor has miles on it? I can't find any info to back that up and the mmr upgraded secondary chain says it's recommenced with aftermarket cams.

 

[2qwk4ya]

Can someone explains why we need to swap out the secondary chains? Are you assuming the motor has miles on it? I can't find any info to back that up and the mmr upgraded secondary chain says it's recommenced with aftermarket cams.

There "Heavy Duty"
You really don't need them until Cams & Valve Springs. But your already there if your doing Headstuds, Dowel pins, MMR tensioner inversion bracket, There only like 100$ cheap insurance with no Addl. labor.





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[beefcake]

sleeves...... or at a minimum inserts in the water jackets

 

[pwnall1337]

sleeves...... or at a minimum inserts in the water jackets

sleeve the block for 900 whp? geeze.

 

[beefcake]

sleeve the block for 900 whp? geeze.

problem is water jacket area is super thin.......

when our engine went, it pushed through water jacket area, pistons and rods were in perfect shape

 

[Phoenix]

yeah doing all this work when only a couple hours and a few thousand more will make it bulletproof at this power level and give you the ability to crank it up even more seems like a waste. youre on borrowed time, may as well buy once cry once, fam.

 

[Kellys69z]

sleeve the block for 900 whp? geeze.

 

[Phoenix]

RIP

 

[MadCow]

Someone in another thread mentioned block supports maybe increasing the likely hood of cracks in the valley. In my opinion, if you sleeve it may as well put rods and pistons in. If you stay rotating assembly I would stay stock sleeves. I have some ideas about block filler to strengthen the block, but the motors are still to expensive for the average Joe to experiment with.

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