GT front camber adjustment

[Mustang_Eh]

Hey everyone,

I went to get my alignment done yesterday and, to my surprise, the shop told me they could not adjust my front camber because they could not loosen the spindle bolt as it was facing the wrong way.

I first went to this shop with my s550 V6 based on my friend's recommendation and these guys had no issues adjusting the front camber. However, when I came back with my GT they could not get the impact on the spindle bolt nut due to caliper clearance and brake line being in the way.

Now I have 2 questions :headbonk::

- Should I take my spindle bolts out and face the nuts the opposite way of brake calipers? Is there a reason why I shouldn't do this? I checked some install videos and the nut being on the caliper side appears to be how it comes from Ford.

- Why did they not have this issue on my V6? Is it because V6 brakes/calipers are smaller and there is enough clearance for them to use an impact? :shrug:

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[chain]

Seems to me there are other options than an impact gun.

Still not sure they can adjust the camber as set up from the factory without slotting the strut holes. Someone with better knowledge can elaborate on that. I still think it doesn't sound like a great shop though.

 

[jbailer]

Hey everyone,

I went to get my alignment done yesterday and, to my surprise, the shop told me they could not adjust my front camber because they could not loosen the spindle bolt as it was facing the wrong way.

I first went to this shop with my s550 V6 based on my friend's recommendation and these guys had no issues adjusting the front camber. However, when I came back with my GT they could not get the impact on the spindle bolt nut due to caliper clearance and brake line being in the way.

Now I have 2 questions :headbonk::

- Should I take my spindle bolts out and face the nuts the opposite way of brake calipers? Is there a reason why I shouldn't do this? I checked some install videos and the nut being on the caliper side appears to be how it comes from Ford.

- Why did they not have this issue on my V6? Is it because V6 brakes/calipers are smaller and there is enough clearance for them to use an impact? :shrug:

Find another shop lol. Sounds like they're clueless unless someone put it on backwards and from what you said, it doesn't sound like it. The bolt should go through from the front where the anti-lock brake sensor line is and the nut goes on towards the rear. Easy to check.

 

[scott_0]

there is no adjustment from the factory, you might get a 1/10 of a degree, if that by loosening the bolts, but nothing to make a difference, you either need to, slot the struts, get camber bolts, or get camber plates

 

[jbailer]

I just removed some camber bolts and put Steeda camber plates in. There's a special place in hell I'm sending the camber bolts! They were a PITA to get out. I'm thinking those camber bolts were the reason my camber was off every time I took it for alignment. Camber plates cost more but you get what you pay for. I really like the Steeda camber plates too, very nice pieces.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Hey everyone,

I went to get my alignment done yesterday and, to my surprise, the shop told me they could not adjust my front camber because they could not loosen the spindle bolt as it was facing the wrong way.

I first went to this shop with my s550 V6 based on my friend's recommendation and these guys had no issues adjusting the front camber. However, when I came back with my GT they could not get the impact on the spindle bolt nut due to caliper clearance and brake line being in the way.

Now I have 2 questions :headbonk::

- Should I take my spindle bolts out and face the nuts the opposite way of brake calipers? Is there a reason why I shouldn't do this? I checked some install videos and the nut being on the caliper side appears to be how it comes from Ford.

- Why did they not have this issue on my V6? Is it because V6 brakes/calipers are smaller and there is enough clearance for them to use an impact? :shrug:

Well, front camber is NOT adjustable on the S550. So.... whoever said they adjusted the front camber on your V6, well maybe they checked it, but they certainly didn't adjust it.

The nuts /are/ on the caliper side, and I'm not sure why that tripped them up. Seems like you could remove them regardless of which side they were on. Even if they did remove them, the holes are not slotted for adjustment by the factory. Maybe that was a mis-communication on their part and they removed the bolts and then realized that wouldn't help.

If you do want to adjust front camber, in case your camber is out of spec for some reason, or if you're lowered and need adjustment to get back into factory spec, or you desire to run more camber, there are 3-4 ways to do it. 1) buy slotted struts, or 1b) remove and slot your own factory struts. 2) get some camber bolts to replace the factory strut to spindle bolts, or 3) invest in some camber plates.

 

[Mustang_Eh]

Well, front camber is NOT adjustable on the S550. So.... whoever said they adjusted the front camber on your V6, well maybe they checked it, but they certainly didn't adjust it.

Let me clarify:
- I'm aware of the limitations of the front camber adjustment on our cars and the requirement of camber bolts
- When I said adjusting front camber I meant maximum adjustment without the use of camber bolts, which is still within spec. Wasn't really sure how else to describe it. I understand it's minuscule.

The nuts /are/ on the caliper side, and I'm not sure why that tripped them up. Seems like you could remove them regardless of which side they were on. Even if they did remove them, the holes are not slotted for adjustment by the factory. Maybe that was a mis-communication on their part and they removed the bolts and then realized that wouldn't help.

Guy told me the nut is usually (not on our cars, but in his experience) opposite of the caliper for easy access with the impact gun. I was standing under my car looking at what he was showing me. The brake line is too close to the end of the bolt for the impact gun and socket to get in there.

If you do want to adjust front camber, in case your camber is out of spec for some reason, or if you're lowered and need adjustment to get back into factory spec, or you desire to run more camber, there are 3-4 ways to do it. 1) buy slotted struts, or 1b) remove and slot your own factory struts. 2) get some camber bolts to replace the factory strut to spindle bolts, or 3) invest in some camber plates.

I'm ok with the camber as it's within stock spec (although on the high side), I was more concerned about the toe.

I still want to know if it matter which way the bolt faces, because if it doesn't then I'll just flip it myself so I don't have this issue in the future.

 

[NightmareMoon]

The adjustment without camber bolts is basically non-existant, just a little slop in the circular mounting holes. Its not worth chasing.

The big spindle to strut bolts are splined on one side so they will not be reverseable. IDK if alternative bolts like camber bolts are splined similarly.

I've adjusted my bolts a couple of times and had a shop do it another time. Never had any trouble with clearance to those nuts with brake lines or anything else after the swaybar endlinks and abs wires have been disconnected. Part of removing them is backing off the nuts to the end of the bolts and banging on them with a big hammer. IDK maybe the non PP cars are different?

 

[jbailer]

I think NightmareMoon is correct, I didn't even think about the fact that the splines on the strut bolt probably only grab on that front edge so they have to go that way. I have the same brakes on my EB PP but I took the brake calipers off when I did this because I was replacing the struts so I'm not sure about clearance.

The point is though, those strut bolts fill those holes. While there might be a little bit of slop in there, unless you slot the strut, you won't be able to move it enough to get any real adjustment. Camber bolts do work and are not splined. They can't be and do their job. The way they work is the camber bolt goes on the top, you loosen the bottom bolt a little and turn the camber bolt to adjust camber. It has a lobe on it that will move the strut in and out. The camber bolt is much smaller than the strut bolt and I think there must be a lot more stress there compared to adjusting it the correct way which would be with a camber plate on the top of the strut. Although the camber bolt is a cheap alternative if funds are limited.

 

[Mustang_Eh]

Thanks guys. I'll try another shop next time and see what they say.

 

[qtrracer]

There is another way (besides slotting the strut). You need to loosen all the suspension bolts and push the top of the strut inward toward the center of the car and hold it there while that side is re-torqued to spec. Doesn't give you much but when classing rules disallow camber plates or bolts, you do what you can.

I've found that slotting the upper strut hole gives enough negative camber for a street/track car. But adjustments are a PITA due to the splined fasteners. So, in my case I pushed it all the way in and torqued it down. Gave me -2.5*.

 

[Mustang_Eh]

There is another way (besides slotting the strut). You need to loosen all the suspension bolts and push the top of the strut inward toward the center of the car and hold it there while that side is re-torqued to spec. Doesn't give you much but when classing rules disallow camber plates or bolts, you do what you can.

That. That is exactly what I asked them to do because I don't mind the camber, just wanted to get this done and call it a day.

 

[16s550]

Sorry for the side question I have Caster camber plates not installed yet but when I do I'm curious what should I have the shop adjust them at for Street and track. Car is only lowered 1inch all around. Steeda linear

 

[jbailer]

Sorry for the side question I have Caster camber plates not installed yet but when I do I'm curious what should I have the shop adjust them at for Street and track. Car is only lowered 1inch all around. Steeda linear

I would go for -1.7 for the front.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I would go for -1.7 for the front.

IDK about lowered S550s, but stock height S550s will want more than 1.7 up front for track use.

With a laser temperature gun or (preferably) a tire pyrometer you can fine tube your camber so that the inside and outside edges of the tire are the same temp after lapping at the track. Without that data you can guess at it by checking the wear indicators on the sidewalls of your tires, but those are also affected by tire inflation pressure. Temperature is more reliable.

If the outside edge is hotter than the inside edge, add negative camber. If the inside edge is hotter, remove camber. If the center is hotter than the edges, lower tire pressure. If the edges are hotter than the center, raise tire pressure.

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