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front stock camber adjustment

Kahboom

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http://www.onlymustangfords.com/2015-mustang-independent-suspension.html so after reading this article it says while the new system is independent from the strut and even allows a simple camber adjustment via an eccentric cam bolt located in the upper area of the Mount. so my question is where is the camber bolt adjustment for these cars. I mean I've heard people talk about caster and camber plates or using just camber bolts but I've never heard or seen any picture or info about stock OEM adjustment in the front.
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Budwise

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Yea, in stock form you can't adjust front camber/caster, just toe. Camber bolts will work but plates are better.
 
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Kahboom

Kahboom

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so where does the boat go in the top or the bottom because I was looking at a website for alignment locations and they showed using the aftermarket bolts but in the bottom
 

NightmareMoon

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The factory repair manual procedure to get camber on a crashed car is to widen the top hole a bit (no more than 2mm). For street-class autocrossers, this is the only way allowed in the rules, as non standard parts or 'camber bolts' are not allowed.

My shop did my car and it took a couple of hours of labor (they're meticulous, which is why I use them). They were able to get 2.5 degrees of camber in the front with this technique while only removing about 1.5mm of material. This is with the stock PP springs and shocks.

I'm assuming that a camber bolt would go through the top hole as well, since that's the only hole you modify. It may not make a difference, but I'd say go with the top hole to be sure.
 

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gwrx64

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The factory repair manual procedure to get camber on a crashed car is to widen the top hole a bit (no more than 2mm). For street-class autocrossers, this is the only way allowed in the rules, as non standard parts or 'camber bolts' are not allowed.

My shop did my car and it took a couple of hours of labor (they're meticulous, which is why I use them). They were able to get 2.5 degrees of camber in the front with this technique while only removing about 1.5mm of material. This is with the stock PP springs and shocks.

I'm assuming that a camber bolt would go through the top hole as well, since that's the only hole you modify. It may not make a difference, but I'd say go with the top hole to be sure.
Nigthmaremoon,

I really like the sound of this simple mod rather than discarding my PP springs and shocks for a set of coilovers with camber plates.

Did they use the same bolts once they widened the hole in the struts? What else is required to keep the alignment from drifting due to the bigger hole? Any other tips or tricks?

Thanks.
 

NightmareMoon

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I think camber plates are an option without buying new coilovers.

I brought my shop a set of factory bolts in case there were any issues removing the old bolts, but I forgot to ask if they ended up needing them. The shop did try to ensure the bolt was resting on the edge of the hole to help it from drifing towards more camber, but really its the massive torque specs for those large bolts that keep things from drifting. I've seen aftermarket struts that come with the top hole already widened so Im thinking the mod will probably hold, barring a collision of some sort.
 

gwrx64

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Thanks for the fast response!

I'd like to stay in F-Street for AutoX, so I'll avoid the camber plates for a bit. Also, I would feel compelled to do coilovers or an air-ride setup if I'm going pay someone to install camber plates.

I agree completely with your comment about the massive torque on the bolts to keep them from drifting. I contacted a popular alignment shop here in Georgia and they said I would need a "cam kit" to prevent the bolts from drifting. He also gave me the part# 4R3Z3B236AB. Turns out these are camber bolts (illegal for F-Street) and not compatible for my 2015 (part # is for 2014 and older Mustangs).

Time to try some other performance shops or maybe an ambitious Ford mechanic.
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