Brake rotor turning after pad change

[kz]

Do you guys that changed pads (I know may of the track guys did) had your brake rotors turned during that change ?

How necessary is it ?

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[Cobra Jet]

I've only ever had the rotors turned if:
A) Rotor surface is slightly grooved due to pad wear indicator or debris between pad & rotor
B) Rotor surface is glazed (super shiny)

Many shops in my area won't even turn rotors anymore due to labor/pricing - especially if the cost of a new rotor (depending on vehicle and brake brands) cost just as much.

If rotors are warped, beyond spec, or turning won't fix surface damage - definitely replace.

 

[xXANCHORMONXx]

Nope

If anything get a red scotch brite

 

[NightmareMoon]

Nope

If anything get a red scotch brite

Its infuriating that the pad manufacturers insist that resurfacing must be done, while none of the mechanics I've spoken to believe its necessary or valuable.

Resurfacing by sanding the surface can be done at home, but avoid the aluminum oxide (red) pads, as you don't want any residue from that stuff on your rotor, it may cause hotspots (which we are trying to avoid by resurfacing).

Turning down the rotor another option, but a lot of people seem to think that the downsides of the resultingly thinner rotor outweigh the benefits of turning it (thinner rotors have less heat capacity and are more likely to warp). If you go that route, you'll need to find a shop that you trust to do it without screwing things up.

When I put on GLOC R12/R10 pads last year I did sand down both sides of all 4 rotors, but damn that was a lot of work, even with power tools, and honestly I can't tell any difference in performance versus the next 3 or so pad changes where I did not resurface. I would not do it again.

Next time I have to replace my street pads, I'm going to use a compound which is compatible with my track pads, making resurfacing a lot less necessary.

Cheap rotors can be found, so replacing the rotors entirely is another route some people like to go.

 

[BmacIL]

The only time you need to sand them is if you're going to very different pad materials. If you're replacing with like (like all the G-loc line, or carbotech line, for instance) you do not need to do anything. The pads deposit material onto the rotors and you'll want to get that cleaned off.

 

[xXANCHORMONXx]

Its infuriating that the pad manufacturers insist that resurfacing must be done, while none of the mechanics I've spoken to believe its necessary or valuable.

Resurfacing by sanding the surface can be done at home, but avoid the aluminum oxide (red) pads, as you don't want any residue from that stuff on your rotor, it may cause hotspots (which we are trying to avoid by resurfacing).

Turning down the rotor another option, but a lot of people seem to think that the downsides of the resultingly thinner rotor outweigh the benefits of turning it (thinner rotors have less heat capacity and are more likely to warp). If you go that route, you'll need to find a shop that you trust to do it without screwing things up.

When I put on GLOC R12/R10 pads last year I did sand down both sides of all 4 rotors, but damn that was a lot of work, even with power tools, and honestly I can't tell any difference in performance versus the next 3 or so pad changes where I did not resurface. I would not do it again.

Next time I have to replace my street pads, I'm going to use a compound which is compatible with my track pads, making resurfacing a lot less necessary.

Cheap rotors can be found, so replacing the rotors entirely is another route some people like to go.

They do it to put the blame on the installer, they don't want some guy who's raced a S2k into the ground to slap on their race pads onto 100k old discs.

This is why I preach whenever I can to go Ferodo.

I've spent 10s of thousands on pads, discs, rings, calipers etc and know what works and what does not.

I run Ferodo DS2500 on the street and the DSUNO or Ds1.11 on the track.

I swap back and forth and have never had an issue with build up or hot spots.

I tried the same with carbotech and GLOC and it was a failure.


Each time I ended up getting a set of discs for race pads and a set of discs for street pads. Ferodo has made my track days that much more fun.

 

[PatrickGT]

Those Ferodo pads are great, I use the DS1.11 on my raced-into-the-ground S2K/AP Racing calipers

 

[xXANCHORMONXx]

Those Ferodo pads are great, I use the DS1.11 on my raced-into-the-ground S2K/AP Racing calipers

I had that same kit on my evo 8. Loved them, it was nice to not have to every worry about brakes after buying that kit.

 

[PatrickGT]

Mmmm, Evo 8

 

[BmacIL]

I'm looking for a little bit of a pad upgrade for the base brakes, but nothing to race oriented as it's my DD, including in the winter. No plans right now to swap for summer/winter as I do autocross but maybe only 1 track day a year.

 

[PatrickGT]

I'm looking for a little bit of a pad upgrade for the base brakes, but nothing to race oriented as it's my DD, including in the winter. No plans right now to swap for summer/winter as I do autocross but maybe only 1 track day a year.

http://www.tf-works.com/ferodo-ds2500-brake-pads-s550-ford-mustang-performance-pack-front/

 

[wildcatgoal]

Only really need to sand if changing pad material. And even that, I've never done more than 5 min. of even sanding in a crosshatch per rotor. Call me crazy...

 

[BmacIL]

http://www.tf-works.com/ferodo-ds2500-brake-pads-s550-ford-mustang-performance-pack-front/

That's the PP...from what I can tell they don't make the ds2500 for the EB PP/base GT brakes.

 

[qtrracer]

I break out the air disc and knock off the old material if changing brands or compound. Because this is primarily a street car, swapping pads/rotors every weekend gets old. Thus, I selected a pad that seems to do well for both environments without noise, and excessive rotor wear and dusting. For my 86, I used Hawks. For the 16, I'm still running the factory stuff. But when time comes, I'm trying the ST 47s.

 

[wildcatgoal]

I'm looking for a little bit of a pad upgrade for the base brakes, but nothing to race oriented as it's my DD, including in the winter. No plans right now to swap for summer/winter as I do autocross but maybe only 1 track day a year.

I'd get ceramics. I think Hawk makes them now for these cars. Yellow box. No dust, braking power will be fine. No noises. Once my stock pads die (taking forever...) I will get ceramics. Sick of cleaning the wheel by the time I get home from washing the car...

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