Ford Racing ProCal Tune

[jbailer]

So today I took the Stock airbox/AEM/Airaid combo off and put the stock tube and GT350 filter back on. It doesn't take that long to do and I feel like the GT350 filter had significantly better throttle response, so I'm going to drive it tuned for a couple of days like this. I never actually drove it with the tune except back to the house where I swapped to the Airaid tube.

I discovered that installing the whole intake assembled from filter to turbo coupler allows you to push it a little better into place so there isn't so much stress on the coupler, and I also figured out how to get the coolant overflow tank to move even further over so the tube isn't touching it. After about 20 minutes of fiddling with it in nice warm weather with good sunlight instead of a flashlight and 20 degrees I got everything in with nothing rubbing/chafing anywhere.

Thanks! I think I'll take mine apart this evening and try the same. The weather is great today!

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[ForYourOwnGood]

Thanks! I think I'll take mine apart this evening and try the same. The weather is great today!

I realized in better lighting the coolant tank has a lot of play in it, its just got those little loose anchor plates. I got it about 1/2" away from the tube now. And by installing all of it "loose" (not too lose otherwise things fly apart when you put pressure on it! Just want to be able to clock the couplers the way you want), even the 10mm holding the shroud down I managed to have it raised up a little so it doesn't touch the TB pipe. Just took some cussing and wiggling about haha.


I also managed to loosen and twist the hot side pipe on the IC so my DV+ valve isn't causing the solenoid connector to touch the intake tube which was happening before because the DV+ is taller than the stock plastic thing.

 

[lizardrko]

For those that threw on a different intake with the FP tune, how were the results? Were they about the same or could it cause less throttle response? Still debating lol.

 

[ForYourOwnGood]

For those that threw on a different intake with the FP tune, how were the results? Were they about the same or could it cause less throttle response? Still debating lol.

I'm going to run the Ford intake for a little bit and see, I felt like it was better with the open filter but it may just be I wasn't paying enough attention. If it feels much better, I may modify my Airaid intake tube to fit with it. Looks like a pretty simple cut.

 

[defdans]

Any chance it would make my bov louder?

For anyone who's curious out there, I find this aspect of the tune pretty annoying. To me it's very noticeable. My wife thinks i'm crazy, but I had a Ford tech sit in the car with me and he could hear it. Says it's normal, but it bothers me.

 

[jbailer]

For anyone who's curious out there, I find this aspect of the tune pretty annoying. To me it's very noticeable. My wife thinks i'm crazy, but I had a Ford tech sit in the car with me and he could hear it. Says it's normal, but it bothers me.

That's not the tune, it's the fact that there's an open element intake on it now. Swap to your stock intake and problem solved. You'll probably be giving up some throttle response though.

 

[jbailer]

So today I took the Stock airbox/AEM/Airaid combo off and put the stock tube and GT350 filter back on. It doesn't take that long to do and I feel like the GT350 filter had significantly better throttle response, so I'm going to drive it tuned for a couple of days like this. I never actually drove it with the tune except back to the house where I swapped to the Airaid tube.

I discovered that installing the whole intake assembled from filter to turbo coupler allows you to push it a little better into place so there isn't so much stress on the coupler, and I also figured out how to get the coolant overflow tank to move even further over so the tube isn't touching it. After about 20 minutes of fiddling with it in nice warm weather with good sunlight instead of a flashlight and 20 degrees I got everything in with nothing rubbing/chafing anywhere.

Thanks again for sharing this. I finally got around to trying it and sure enough I was able to get it to fit without rubbing on the coolant tank and I have a Mishimoto coolant expansion tank so it sticks out a little more.

My mistake was just leaving the stock intake tube hooked up the way it was to the stock air box. I just took the stock air box out and put the GT350 air box in and connected it. After loosening all the couplers and twisting things around a little, I was able to get it to fit ok, no rubbing. :ford:

 

[sharp21]

I've got a different intake installed. Runs great, no issues.

Now that I've been tuned for a week the difference is night and day. Pulls hard right to redlines, without that dead spot around 4k it used to have

 

[ForYourOwnGood]

Thanks again for sharing this. I finally got around to trying it and sure enough I was able to get it to fit without rubbing on the coolant tank and I have a Mishimoto coolant expansion tank so it sticks out a little more.

My mistake was just leaving the stock intake tube hooked up the way it was to the stock air box. I just took the stock air box out and put the GT350 air box in and connected it. After loosening all the couplers and twisting things around a little, I was able to get it to fit ok, no rubbing. :ford:

Nice. After driving it for two days I feel like there is definitely a better response on the throttle. I have no idea the technicalities behind why it is that way, but I think I will modify the Airaid tube to work with the GT350 filter now. I marked it off with some tape before I took it off where I would need to cut and the plastic blade is still on my rotary tool from doing the grille. Maybe this weekend I will do it if I get time.

I also have two weeks off at the beginning of May so I will be hitting one of the local shops with a dyno up and see if I can get 30 minutes on the rollers and see what its making. I'm wondering how hard it is to load the stock mapping back on for comparison.

 

[jbailer]

Nice. After driving it for two days I feel like there is definitely a better response on the throttle. I have no idea the technicalities behind why it is that way, but I think I will modify the Airaid tube to work with the GT350 filter now. I marked it off with some tape before I took it off where I would need to cut and the plastic blade is still on my rotary tool from doing the grille. Maybe this weekend I will do it if I get time.

I also have two weeks off at the beginning of May so I will be hitting one of the local shops with a dyno up and see if I can get 30 minutes on the rollers and see what its making. I'm wondering how hard it is to load the stock mapping back on for comparison.

The technical reason why the GT350 open air intake has better throttle response is that the is more burst volume of air available. When you hit the throttle quick, it sucks the air it has available. In a closed container like that it can only use the volume of the container then needs to pull through the opening at the grill. The opening at the grill is sufficient for sustained pulls, that's probably why dyno tests show the stock box to work best. The dyno isn't measuring throttle response.

The problem with changing from the stock to the FP tune and checking is it would need to be 2 different visits. If you test it with the FP tune and then load the stock tune, it will need time to relearn the tables, not long but would be better. I doubt it would take long. It only took 16 minutes to load the FP tune so I imagine it would be similar. It'll take longer than that to let the car cool down.

 

[WhiteEc0]

Steve Powell @ Tasca Ford. < $500 shipped in the US, not sure about the great white north.

You have a link to the website? I'm having trouble finding it on their website.
Thanks!

 

[jbailer]

You have a link to the website? I'm having trouble finding it on their website.
Thanks!

call 800-598-1484 and ask for him directly for the best deal.

 

[Turbong]

What are the opinions concerning the spark plugs running this tune? Is it best to run the stock plugs since it's tuned with them, one stop colder? NGK's does it matter? Anyone have experience?

 

[jbailer]

What are the opinions concerning the spark plugs running this tune? Is it best to run the stock plugs since it's tuned with them, one stop colder? NGK's does it matter? Anyone have experience?

i don't really have a good tool to data log with but from plug indications and from talking to Ford Performance, I'd stick with the stock plugs. Ford Performance said they tuned the car with the stock plugs and saw no benefit in running a colder plug. Now if you're using the car strictly for track duty where you are always pushing it, then I'm sure you're checking the plugs all the time and if they look like they're running too hot, then go with a colder plug. Honestly though, the tune isn't extreme. It's a 50 state legal tune so I'm sure it isn't aggressive.

 

[TheLion]

What are the opinions concerning the spark plugs running this tune? Is it best to run the stock plugs since it's tuned with them, one stop colder? NGK's does it matter? Anyone have experience?

I had Brisk RR14S plugs in when I installed the FP tune (was on the LMS 91 tune). Ran those for a few thousand miles but noticed a very significant amount of carbon buildup, they were just too cold.

Also the car picked up a bit of power with OE replacement plugs as they are projected tip where all 1 step colder plugs are non-projected tip (which is why they run cooler). You might be able to run the Brisk RR14YS, which they recommend for stock cars which are a projected tip plug.

The deeper the plug sits in the chamber, the more advanced the timing is as the spark is closer to the fuel / air mixture. Plugs that are more recessed retard the timing and it's noticeable. Plugs that are more projected advance the timing.

jbailer is right, I'd stick with the stock plugs or any OE direct replacement (there are better quality OE type plugs than the Ford one's). I ended up having to throw in a set of AutoLite XP's from autozone which are an OE replacement plug because the set of Ford OE plugs I ordered had two bad electrodes (two of them were bent over at 45 degrees) so I just threw them out and picked up something local until they are due for change again.

Intercooler combined with the FP tune and FP CAI is a great setup. It's reliable, you can beat on it day and night without worries about throwing a rod and in the very unlikely instance something did happen, well it's on FP's dime up to 36k and Fords dime up to 60k (as long as it's not due to the FP tune itself, injectors fail, fuel pumps fail, parts do break even on stock cars).

Also Ford Performance had AEM make a Syntha Max dry filter that's re-usable as an upgrade replacement for the paper filter which you might want to look into. The flow rate isn't really much better than the paper filter, but it's reusable, so you can clean it every couple of months and keep the filter flowing near it's maximum by just washing it.

Since I have a ram air duct mod, my filter needs a cleaning every 3~6 months (winter is every 3 due to the massive amounts of salt dust), so I went with a dry element filter and outer wears over the top to keep larger debris from lodging in the mesh and piling up on top.

Setup works great, is easily cleanable and has 99%+ filtration efficiency which is as good as a stock paper filter. Yes it matters, wait til you hit 100k, poor filtration (even a couple of percent) will end up in compression loss from wear on the rings / sleeves far sooner. If your car is a daily driver, I'd recommend sticking with high filtration efficiency, not worth a couple extra pony's you won't even feel now for the loss of 20~30hp from compression loss at 100k.

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-9601-G

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