Dedicated track tire for 18x10 recommendations

[Norm Peterson]

. . . but also note the 305 on a 10" is in Nitto's specs.

Means it meets general tire industry guidelines for tire to wheel fitment. It's probably safe to assume that neither transient handling nor steady-state grip for any size tire is going to be optimal when mounted on min-recommended-width wheels.


Norm

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[steveespo]

FWIW my cars have always been better performers using 305 section Pirelli DH slicks vs 285 section DHs both on a 10" wheel. The 305 Pirelli is very similar in size to Hoosier R7s in 295 section. Both work very well on either the S197 or S550 chassis on a 10" wheel.
Steve

 

[boardkat]

FWIW my cars have always been better performers using 305 section Pirelli DH slicks vs 285 section DHs both on a 10" wheel. The 305 Pirelli is very similar in size to Hoosier R7s in 295 section. Both work very well on either the S197 or S550 chassis on a 10" wheel.
Steve

they would work even better on 11s ;)

 

[steveespo]

they would work even better on 11s ;)

Agreed but not that much better. I have had R7s on 11s on my car (not my Forgelines!!!) and the car felt a liittle more responsive at turn in but not $5000 worth for me to buy 2 sets of wheels.
Steve

 

[boardkat]

Agreed but not that much better. I have had R7s on 11s on my car (not my Forgelines!!!) and the car felt a liittle more responsive at turn in but not $5000 worth for me to buy 2 sets of wheels.
Steve

no doubt, all relative to your needs, the importance of tenths of seconds, and the size of your pocketbook (or your desire to keep it empty)!

i gained .75" contact patch when i went from 18x11 -> 18x12 on 315 A7s/rival-s. tire was also better supported, turn-in much crisper, and car ultimately was faster on-course. i still haven't found a case where wider wheel has hurt me - going from 18x12 -> 18x13 on 335s now, so we'll see if that continues to hold true

 

[Optimum Performance]

LOL John, so I guess I will be giving you point by's next December at Daytona with my not so grippy Comp 2's. I have to say once you get over the lack of grip killing laptimes the driver mod improves quickly. I could screw with the P and C cars because my lines are different (very late apex - attempted and slow entry) so I could be on the throttle way before the apex and pull them. I'm sure it gave them fits but the infield course at Daytona is the great equalizer. Slow turns and basically I'm the Miata in a group of Mustangs. Sticky tires allow you to carry much more entry speed and make the line work but I'm finally getting what every Coach has been trying to beat into me since Karting, slow in, fast out :cheers:

That video from Trans-Am at Daytona shows you how lines matter less on a tire but the guys with clear track still run a similar line to what I was taught.

The Shelby guys that were there (obviously much more grip) carry more speed through the bus stop and hit the rh curb. This prevents them from getting on the throttle before the last LH curbing. I go deep in the middle of the bus stop and have a straight shot out onto the banking so I am full power (attempted) way before the exit.

Now that I have completely crapped on your tire post....

 

[Grintch]

You checked! +2
If they specced it, then with Nitto they likely tested it. Not preferred rim width?
If its edge of range, just keep that in mind.
There are semi and Full cantilevers sidewall tires (sometimes called cheater tires), but the sidewalls are designed for narrow rims.

Wider wheels are better.
Wider tires are better.

Given a choice get them both. Restricted by price or fitment options on the wheel, use the widest tire you can. Especially on a big powerful car and if staying within the recommended fitment range.

So what's the life of ho-ho's on the Mustang? They last a long time on the SRF.

Cantilever tires are just weird, I experimented with Formula Ford tires on the SRF for autocross. 9"+ section width on a 5.5" wheel. It's amazing what people come up with to get around rule restrictions.

 

[Magnificent Bastard]

Might have missed something, but - are you competing? Are you winning tire comps for placing? Or is it funsies and you are wealthy?

If nobody is paying for your tires, get Hoosiers and Toyos out of the mix ASAP. NT01 is hard to go wrong with, but the Maxxis RC-01 is also probably worth a look.

What is your goal? Are you training for race competition?

 

[Pablo GT350]

My tires wear perfect and tire roll is usually cased by camber not being setup correctly. Mine are on 10" Apex but a 10.5" would likely be the best choice, however the 10" and 305 have had no problems at all.

Dave

Do the Apex 10" require spacers?
thanks

 

[ddozier]

Do the Apex 10" require spacers?
thanks

18x10" ET43 Apex wheels do not require spacers in the rear but do need a 15mm to 17mm spacer in the front to clear, with that size spacer you will need longer wheel studs as well in the front.

Dave

 

[Competition Orange]

18x10" ET43 Apex wheels do not require spacers in the rear but do need a 15mm to 17mm spacer in the front to clear, with that size spacer you will need longer wheel studs as well in the front.

Dave

They do? That's the first I've heard. I could have sworn they were bolt on up front...

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=945288&postcount=39

 

[ddozier]

They do? That's the first I've heard. I could have sworn they were bolt on up front...

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=945288&postcount=39

I guess technically the wheel will fit and not rub the strut without a spacer but if you look at the 2nd picture in the link you provided there is about a 2-3mm gap between the wheel lip and the strut. That does not account for the tire itself or aggressive camber settings. The tire bead and sidewalls are wider than the wheel and will contact the strut without spacers.

The next two posts in the same thread you quoted note that spacer will be needed to clear larger tire fitments.

I can tell you for sure with a 305 front tire mounted on the 10" rim you will need a spacer, a 275 and more than stock camber settings if you are using camber bolts will need a 3-5mm spacer (camber plates may be OK), maybe if you ran a 255 stretched on a 10" rim you may be able to get away with out a spacer but I would not recommend that setup for track duty on a 10" wheel.

I have been running the H&R spacer kits since they come with the longer proper wheel studs as part of the kit. You can find them for a little over $100.00 for two spacers and 10 wheel studs. They come in 13mm 15mm and 17mm sizes.

Dave

 

[Competition Orange]

I understand that larger tires will require spacers, but the regular sized 275 type tire will absolutely work.

I also run -2.7 camber on my similarly specd wheels no problem.

 

[ddozier]

I understand that larger tires will require spacers, but the regular sized 275 type tire will absolutely work.

I also run -2.7 camber on my similarly specd wheels no problem.

There seems to be some variation in setups as some can, some can not. Brent and I both run coil overs and both have different levels of clearance from the same wheel.

We need to gather a few data points and see if we can find the reason for all the different setups.

OEM Suspension or Aftermarket?

Coilovers or springs?

Are you running camber plates or camber bolts to achieve your settings?

Are you running the EC-7 10" +43 Wheel?

What size and brand tire do you have that clears?

Dave

 

[Competition Orange]

OEM Suspension or Aftermarket?

Coilovers or springs?

Are you running camber plates or camber bolts to achieve your settings?

Are you running the EC-7 10" +43 Wheel?

What size and brand tire do you have that clears?

Dave

BMR handling springs, BMR camber bolts, Forgestar CF5 18x10 et43 I think (could be 45), 275/40/18 HTRZ3 cheap summers.

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