Local audio tech has me second guessing

[randotheking]

I have a 2016 GT PP with the base stereo

I bought the following based on these forums and called a local audio shop to see how much he'd charge to install;

-AudioControl LC2i Black 2 Channel Line-Output Converter with AccuBASS
-Rockford Fosgate P300-10 Punch Powered Loaded 10-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure
-Rockford Fosgate 8 AWG Amplifier Install Kit with Interconnect

The local tech told me the Ford systems suck and he would probably be the highest quote I'd get because he knows how to do it correctly. He says his shop works closely with a local Ford dealer and they see overloaded blown systems all the time. He said the base radio isn't good enough to power a LOC and that I'd need a powered LOC (not sure if the LC2i qualifies). He quoted me around $300 for the job and said he would pull the signal from the front instead of the rear, that way I can add an amp down the road. This is a reputable shop that also deals in Home Theater

What do you think? Is he full of it? I don't want to overload the system and I don't know anything about car audio. He seems like a trustworthy guy so I'm wondering if anyone else can validate his claims

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[tcman54]

So basically you are just adding a sub woofer to the base Ford System?

The Ford headend units stink..all of them..they are underpowered and have high distortion levels.

You need a headend unit upgrade and amplifier first in my opinion, that gets you clarity and volume that one would except, after that then you can add in the subwoofer for bass.

You should be able to get a mom and pop audio shop at around $75 an hour for labor, so if he is charging you $300, that's like 4 hours of labor, which seems a bit on the heavy side for installing the gear you listed.

These are just my opinions, take it at what you will.

TC

 

[stoli]

See this post: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1519643&postcount=848

and then the one linked:

http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=3704&pid=63986#pid63986

Those may be overkill for what you are doing, but worth a look (and you may want to point this installer to them for future reference). If he's charging $300 for the whole install that isn't that bad...

 

[randotheking]

So basically you are just adding a sub woofer to the base Ford System?

The Ford headend units stink..all of them..they are underpowered and have high distortion levels.

You need a headend unit upgrade and amplifier first in my opinion, that gets you clarity and volume that one would except, after that then you can add in the subwoofer for bass.

You should be able to get a mom and pop audio shop at around $75 an hour for labor, so if he is charging you $300, that's like 4 hours of labor, which seems a bit on the heavy side for installing the gear you listed.

These are just my opinions, take it at what you will.

TC

Yea I'm just trying to add a sub the cheapest way possible in order to improve this stereo, it's just awful. I've read on here that a LOC and Powered sub is a cheap easy way to go

 

[randotheking]

See this post: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1519643&postcount=848

and then the one linked:

http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=3704&pid=63986#pid63986

Those may be overkill for what you are doing, but worth a look (and you may want to point this installer to them for future reference). If he's charging $300 for the whole install that isn't that bad...

Yea that's just too much work for what I'm trying to do. I had a Shaker 500 with aftermarket speakers and that was plenty for me in my old Mustang. TMy new Mustang's base radio sucks, just trying to give it a little bump. Not looking for a lot of work

 

[GilSilcox]

With the p-300 subs you don't need a loc. I wired mine off my rear speaker wires and it works great. Been installed by myself (with the help of searching the forums) for almost a year. My only issue was polarity from the speakers to the sub at first but once I fixed that it sounded great.

 

[randotheking]

With the p-300 subs you don't need a loc. I wired mine off my rear speaker wires and it works great. Been installed by myself (with the help of searching the forums) for almost a year. My only issue was polarity from the speakers to the sub at first but once I fixed that it sounded great.

Well that's a first. Everyone says you definitely need the LOC

 

[Mid_life_crisis]

There are two reasons for using a LOC and two different kinds of locs, powered and passive. The first amplifies and the second reduces.
1) If your H/U is supplying a weak line level output, you may need to use a powered LOC to amplify the signal so it doesn't pick up noise on the way to your other equipment.
2) If your H/U is putting out speaker level power (internal amp) you may need to reduce the voltage level so a downstream component that is expecting line level signals can handle it.

Base stereo does not have an external amplifier, which means the H/U is putting out an amplified signal, which is plenty strong enough to reach the back of the car, obviously.
So you aren't amplifying the signal. If the powered sub you are installing has the option of taking speaker level signals, you don't need to reduce the voltage either. All you need to do is connect the signal to the sub and let its built in LOC handle it.

 

[rambunctious]

If the amp can receive speaker level signal, then it is doing internally what the LOC does. I would try without the loc, and maybe you can return the loc if unused to save money. if you do not like the sound quality, add the loc in the signal between rear speaker and amp and see if it improves....
if you are not happy with this, then go with the installers advice to use the front signal......

You might ask the installer to quote an hourly rate for the first scenario i list here. and "help him" with his 2 hour install ?????
;)

as mentioned, GIlSilcox and others are happy with this simple sub upgrade....


Ramb

 

[rambunctious]

what MLC said

 

[wildcatgoal]

Your tech is full of crap. For a sub only, the output from the rear speakers is okay. I always take signal from the front speaker signal as it is sometimes stronger. If the powered sub/amp can input speaker signal, use it. Using the LC2i will increase the signal output up to 8v and you can use it to process the bass a little bit, but it isn't absolutely necessary.

 

[Mid_life_crisis]

I just looked up that LOC and the Sub. I'm a firm believer in not installing unnecessary components and with your system, that LOC is redundant. You're already sending a high voltage signal back to the sub and the sub has a built in LOC. Both reasons you might use a LOC are already covered.

 

[randotheking]

Well I also want to future proof myself while I'm doing this. I may want to upgrade the speakers, what should I do then? Include the LOC from the front?

 

[Mid_life_crisis]

Well I also want to future proof myself while I'm doing this. I may want to upgrade the speakers, what should I do then? Include the LOC from the front?

Include the LOC if you can see yourself ever adding an aftermarket amplifier that does not have a built in LOC or if you might either replace the H/U for one with line outs or send your factory H/U away to be modified to put out line level signals. The reason for doing that last would be to bypass the crappy built in amp, which is a serious noise source. Unless you're going to alter the H/U either by replacement or modification, you probably have no reason to install that LOC, as most budget amps include a built in LOC.

 

[randotheking]

Sweet, I'll just have a tech install the P300 and pull from the rear. Easier than I thought. That AMP kit I ordered, is it overkill?
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Amplifier-Install-Interconnect/dp/B001AV5ZHQ

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