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Steeda cai vs jlt cai your thoughts

SVT Wylde

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This and the filter because it's way down directly in the path of the snorkel could get really wet on a grill delete car. The possibility of it getting rain blasted on my car with my full grill delete (it rains a lot here) plus the 90* bend right at the airbox lid deterred me from buying the Injen.
Doesn't the stock intake require air to make a 90 degree bend as well? I was wondering about water hitting the filter too but I didn't think rain would be able to get to it. That is a concern but not a deal breaker for me.

I am a drag racer and my concern is being in the staging lanes and pulling up to the line with 165 degree IAT's and the car pulling timing going down the 1/8th mile. So does the flow of an open intake outweigh the slightly more restrictive flow of the stock box but 40 degree cooler IAT's? I think pulling timing hurts performance a lot more than some flow restriction. (for a drag racer more so than other scenerios) I never saw my stock box get over 124 degrees in stop and go traffic on a 95+ degree day.
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stoli

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I am a drag racer and my concern is being in the staging lanes and pulling up to the line with 165 degree IAT's and the car pulling timing going down the 1/8th mile. So does the flow of an open intake outweigh the slightly more restrictive flow of the stock box but 40 degree cooler IAT's? I think pulling timing hurts performance a lot more than some flow restriction. (for a drag racer more so than other scenerios) I never saw my stock box get over 124 degrees in stop and go traffic on a 95+ degree day.
Go Airaid or stock.
 

Gibbo205

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Go Airaid or stock.

This, though my PMAS with the modifications I have made the IAT even when queuing in traffic now does not really exceed 10c above ambient, IAT's are as good as stock air box now pretty much. My only complaint with PMAS now is the almost over-sensitive throttle it has in sport/race mode, almost jumpy like you described.

I spoke to JDM about the Airaid as they too like that CAI but could not really answer my question as to whether or not it makes more power than stock or not. They did say removing the insert will create more power up top but at the down side of causing oscillation at idle and drive ability issues.

I am gonna try a Lund tune with the PMAS, the TUNE REQUIRED version and put my stock maf sensor in the PMAS CAI and run it with Lunds tune as a few here are raving about that combo, yes its cost me $200 but will be interesting to see if Lund has improved drive ability compared to JDM on the PMAS.

The JDM tune on stock air box was beyond silky smooth and JDM tune has no lift shifting feature which Lund do not offer.
 

stoli

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That's what I'm thinking.
I couldn't tell you the number of times I was 140*+ in the staging lanes with an open element intake. I couldn't tell you for certain it made a significant time difference, but it sure was in my head the whole time.
 

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4V Mayhem

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Even the Airaid can see high temps. I have one. On 90 plus degree days the intake temps soar especially after driving and sitting. There were times this past Summer when it was mid to upper 90s and my temps started out in the low 100s. After driving to a store, parking for 20 minutes and returning to my car, they would be in the 130s. They would then drop to low 120s but it would take some extended driving at over 40 mph to get them back to within 10 degrees. It doesn't go back as immediately as people say. Although perhaps at a drag strip it could since you'll be accelerating to well over 100 mph in a short time. But thats just how it is. Which is why people bring coolers with bags of ice to the track. Or get meth injection.
 

Jeff's FRC

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I spoke to JDM about the Airaid as they too like that CAI but could not really answer my question as to whether or not it makes more power than stock or not. They did say removing the insert will create more power up top but at the down side of causing oscillation at idle and drive ability issues.
I'm running the Airaid with insert removed and don't notice any idle or driveability issues at all. I'm using a Livernois tune.
 

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I'm running the Airaid with insert removed and don't notice any idle or driveability issues at all. I'm using a Livernois tune.

I would suspect Livernois have that intake better dialled in compared to JDM considering Livernois offer pre-modified versions of the intake says to me they have spent a lot more time perfecting it. :)
 

Need4Speed15

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[MENTION=7748]tj@steeda[/MENTION]
[MENTION=25806]SteedaTech[/MENTION]

Any comment on this? I know in post #10 you stated that you frequent and test on road courses in GA and FL. I know there are a lot of variables when testing on a road course, but I'm curious of your thoughts on this. Thanks
Bump for Steedas thoughts. See post #92 from stoli. Thanks
 

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Get an Airaid MIT elbow, an aFe hi-flow panel filter into the stock airbox and a Livernois tune and your IAT's are like stock ... and if it's anything like my car it hauls!!

If I video'd myself you'd actually see my head slowly move back to the headrest until it touches as I get to redline ... now granted my back rest is more vertical than most I suspect with the headrest 2-3 inches back from my head but I've never owned a car that pulls like this one after those mods.
 

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4V Mayhem

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Get an Airaid MIT elbow, an aFe hi-flow panel filter into the stock airbox and a Livernois tune and your IAT's are like stock ... and if it's anything like my car it hauls!!

If I video'd myself you'd actually see my head slowly move back to the headrest until it touches as I get to redline ... now granted my back rest is more vertical than most I suspect with the headrest 2-3 inches back from my head but I've never owned a car that pulls like this one after those mods.
If you like the MIT with hi-flow filter then you're gonna love an actual CAI. The MIT was my first mod and it was great. But then I went for the Airaid cai and that was even better. I'm doing a bunch of other mods soon (headers, 350 IM) and I figure I'll try a different cai, one that requires tuning.
 

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Thanks for the comparison 4V ... good to hear actual impressions. I may but I'm just not sure the trade-offs are worth it.

I'm at the point where I'm extremely happy with the way the car performs & sounds that I don't want to mess with a good thing (and I'm sure we've all done that and regretted it).

Granted I could revert back but I've already got a slightly used Borla Touring for sale ... don't want to risk losing $ on a slightly used CAI as well. :D
 

SteedaTech

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Bump for Steedas thoughts. See post #92 from stoli. Thanks
Yes, at Sebring we have seen the same results as far as cly head temps.

This is because of the additional horsepower produced by the CAI. Increased horsepower = energy = heat

Once you reach over 205 degrees it starts to pull timing out, which in turn you lose power, the higher the temp the more timing.

In cases like this, where a person is on tracking on road courses you would like to see a tune with a consistent 11.75 to 12.25 air to fuel ratio which helps immensely. Lean mixtures causes high cylinder temps as well

Also, a bigger radiator or flowing more air through the radiator helps, this is a must.

On our road race cars, we like to run at around 195 to 200 degrees water temp, this will help keep the cylinder head temps down.

Once your temps are consistent with each cold air kit then you see the positive results with the better cold air intakes on the market.

Hope this helps,

Steeda Tech
 

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Yes, at Sebring we have seen the same results as far as cly head temps.

This is because of the additional horsepower produced by the CAI. Increased horsepower = energy = heat

Once you reach over 205 degrees it starts to pull timing out, which in turn you lose power, the higher the temp the more timing.

In cases like this, where a person is on tracking on road courses you would like to see a tune with a consistent 11.75 to 12.25 air to fuel ratio which helps immensely. Lean mixtures causes high cylinder temps as well

Also, a bigger radiator or flowing more air through the radiator helps, this is a must.

On our road race cars, we like to run at around 195 to 200 degrees water temp, this will help keep the cylinder head temps down.

Once your temps are consistent with each cold air kit then you see the positive results with the better cold air intakes on the market.

Hope this helps,

Steeda Tech

That is great info!
So how much timing is pulled say at 205, then say 210, 215 and 220?

Good info as well on AFR, my car is doing 11.8-12.2 at WOT which agrees with your statement. :)
 

stoli

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Yes, at Sebring we have seen the same results as far as cly head temps.

This is because of the additional horsepower produced by the CAI. Increased horsepower = energy = heat

Once you reach over 205 degrees it starts to pull timing out, which in turn you lose power, the higher the temp the more timing.

In cases like this, where a person is on tracking on road courses you would like to see a tune with a consistent 11.75 to 12.25 air to fuel ratio which helps immensely. Lean mixtures causes high cylinder temps as well

Also, a bigger radiator or flowing more air through the radiator helps, this is a must.

On our road race cars, we like to run at around 195 to 200 degrees water temp, this will help keep the cylinder head temps down.

Once your temps are consistent with each cold air kit then you see the positive results with the better cold air intakes on the market.

Hope this helps,

Steeda Tech
That's funny. Same power with stock box and 20-30* cooler head temps.. How about addressing the issue that is actually at play: taking the heat extraction vent out of play.

My tune has been data logged and reviewed while at the track. Both my 93 tune and e85/flex fuel. I'll stick with their advice and only use the stock box.
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