Window fix?

[Unaballer]

So, I have the same issues as about half of us where my passenger window likes to open and close a smidge. I have already cleaned the connection and resecured the plug and it works well about 90% of the time, but railroad tracks and potholes sometimes upset it. I was considering ordering a whole new window regulator as that seems to be the most common fix. But then it dawned on me.

Has anyone ever run a Jumper for the wires that control the courtesy roll down? If I am that far into the door, pulling a couple of wires and hardwiring them together with a length of wire and some butt connectors is an easy day.

If someone has I would love some pics if you have them. I would also ( I know I can google this part) love to know which wires would be the correct wires to remove from the plug and hardwire together.

Thanks Y'all!

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[Sparky1337]

Not to doubt and whatnot, but how well did you clean it and pack it with dielectric?

I had to do it just about every other year until I filled that plug to the brim. I’ve never had to replace a motor on mine as the clean and pack with dielectric fixed it every time. Albeit, it did come back. But after that last pack it’s been a year or two.

 

[Unaballer]

Not to doubt and whatnot, but how well did you clean it and pack it with dielectric?

I had to do it just about every other year until I filled that plug to the brim. I’ve never had to replace a motor on mine as the clean and pack with dielectric fixed it every time. Albeit, it did come back. But after that last pack it’s been a year or two.

Oh I hit it with a wd-40 electric cleaning spray, pipe cleaners and then sealed it pretty thoroughly with Dielectric grease. I am sure I could get it cleaner. But honestly, snipping 4 wires and connecting them is much easier.

 

[Sparky1337]

I know WD-40 is a water displacer, but I’d give it a go with actual connector cleaner. With the WD-40 it probably didn’t get dry enough.

 

[Unaballer]

I know WD-40 is a water displacer, but I’d give it a go with actual connector cleaner. With the WD-40 it probably didn’t get dry enough.

This what I used. It was their electrical cleaner. It dried damn near like break cleaner.

 

[Sparky1337]

Gotcha. My bad. I’m an old man that’s not used to them making anything other than their one product.

 

[Garfy]

This what I used. It was their electrical cleaner. It dried damn near like break cleaner.

There's a product called Deoxit which is used in electronics as it removes oxidation and enhances the electrical connection. It works well with switches and such on transceivers, radios, etc. and could help clean it up well. As far as dielectric grease goes, it's purpose is to prevent electrical flow (like spark jumping from the coil across the spark plug insulator to ground causing a misfire) so not sure if it's the right product to use on electrical contacts. But, I'm sure it does a great job keeping contamination and moisture out if the connector is packed full with it.

 

[Unaballer]

There's a product called Deoxit which is used in electronics as it removes oxidation and enhances the electrical connection. It works well with switches and such on transceivers, radios, etc. and could help clean it up well. As far as dielectric grease goes, it's purpose is to prevent electrical flow (like spark jumping from the coil across the spark plug insulator to ground causing a misfire) so not sure if it's the right product to use on electrical contacts. But, I'm sure it does a great job keeping contamination and moisture out if the connector is packed full with it.

I used the dielectric grease as the later of your statement. I only put it on the rubber seal of the connector. Not directly on the contacts.

 

[Garfy]

I used the dielectric grease as the later of your statement. I only put it on the rubber seal of the connector. Not directly on the contacts.

OK, that makes sense. Post #2 said he "packed it" to the brim with grease, but it wasn't you that said that. I haven't had any window issues yet but good to know if/when I run into this issue.

 

[Sparky1337]

OK, that makes sense. Post #2 said he "packed it" to the brim with grease, but it wasn't you that said that. I haven't had any window issues yet but good to know if/when I run into this issue.

Yep. The connector is filled with it. The connector is at an upwards facing angle so water just collects inside.

Haven’t had a single issue since.

 

[Sparky1337]

I did the same thing OP did first, which still let enough water and moisture in once the dielectric grease got hot and thin enough to no longer prevent water ingress.

You can see how it sits, and where the water and dirt was coming in before I did this the first time. Just putting a thin film around the connector gasket just isn’t enough.

 

[Unaballer]

So, No one has tried hard wiring this?

 

[ALLSTOCK]

Helloo!

I recently also had my passenger window start spazzing out when trying to close all the way..

Any chance this would this have been covered under the ford ESP plan?

*edit*
Yes.

https://fordprotect.ford.com/extended-service-plan

 

[Cobra Jet]

So my first recommendation would be is if while driving and hitting road imperfections is causing the “glitch” as I’ll call it, then there is either a connector, wiring harness or even pins in a connector that are loose and not totally secured.

My reasoning is because if it’s doing it at a bump or jostle while driving, whatever is loose is causing the glitch to activate. If the connector was correctly sealed and pushed together firmly, the water intrusion should be rectified as well as the glitch. I would also try to mount the offending connector sideways or even upside down so water intrusion isn’t able to penetrate it as easily as how Ford positioned it.

Another trick would be to get a small balloon cut the closed end and slip it over the connector and zip tie each end - totally water proofed now…

—

Cutting the connector or plug head off at each end of the harness and hard wiring the wires together will work 100% as long as you wire the correct wires together exactly how they mated within the plug. The only reason the plug is there is to allow separation of the harness for servicing or replacement of the harness (if necessary)… it’s also designed as such for assembly line efficiencies when building the car and attaching body harnesses/wiring looms for XYZ body panels or modules.

 

[ALLSTOCK]

Had the dealer fix it.

Too bad i bought the ESP after I got the repairs completed

It was indeed water damage.

At least theres a 3 year warranty on the fix from the dealer though!

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