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Why is oil level such a PITA to determine?

JAJ

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The bottom hole is more than a quart down on my car. If it’s at the bottom hole, you’re beyond safe by adding a full quart. Even then, the danger of “over filling” doesn’t happen until the crank is splashing in the oil, and you’re a long way from that.
I suffered an RTFM moment complete with a blinding flash of the obvious when I was looking at my GT350 Owner's Supplement a while back. I had the same "it's not consistent or easily visible" frustration that this thread is about.

This section, from my 2016 Supplement, is identical to the 2020 Supplement:

ENGINE OIL CHECK
[...]
5. Locate and carefully remove the engine oil level dipstick.
6. Wipe the dipstick clean. Insert the dipstick fully, then remove it again.
7. Put the dipstick back in and make sure it is fully seated.
• If the oil level is between the lower and upper holes, the oil level is acceptable. DO NOT ADD OIL.
• If the oil level is below the lower hole, add enough oil to raise the level within the lower and upper holes.


How much clearer could it be? Oil in the bottom hole? Your sump is "FULL". Oil in the top hole? Your sump is "OVER FULL". No oil in the bottom hole? Your sump is "LOW", so put enough oil in to get it up to the hole so it's "FULL" again. Oil above the hole is optional but unnecessary.

There seems to be a huge fuss about trying to keep the oil level at the top of some cross-hatch that, according to the Supplement, has no meaning as far as the oil level is concerned. The holes tell you everything you need to know.
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Lurker_350

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I suffered an RTFM moment complete with a blinding flash of the obvious when I was looking at my GT350 Owner's Supplement a while back. I had the same "it's not consistent or easily visible" frustration that this thread is about.

This section, from my 2016 Supplement, is identical to the 2020 Supplement:

ENGINE OIL CHECK
[...]
5. Locate and carefully remove the engine oil level dipstick.
6. Wipe the dipstick clean. Insert the dipstick fully, then remove it again.
7. Put the dipstick back in and make sure it is fully seated.
• If the oil level is between the lower and upper holes, the oil level is acceptable. DO NOT ADD OIL.
• If the oil level is below the lower hole, add enough oil to raise the level within the lower and upper holes.


How much clearer could it be? Oil in the bottom hole? Your sump is "FULL". Oil in the top hole? Your sump is "OVER FULL". No oil in the bottom hole? Your sump is "LOW", so put enough oil in to get it up to the hole so it's "FULL" again. Oil above the hole is optional but unnecessary.

There seems to be a huge fuss about trying to keep the oil level at the top of some cross-hatch that, according to the Supplement, has no meaning as far as the oil level is concerned. The holes tell you everything you need to know.
I agree with just letting the level be if it is between the holes.

When I first bought mine in 2016, I used to fret about trying to keep oil at the top hole. Car consumed oil at just less than the acceptable rate per Ford. Re-read the manual section you posted above and decided to try and let the oil level continue to drop until it reached the bottom hole and.......it never did. 8 years later, still driving it without adding oil between changes.

I can't really say that frequent top offs contribute to consumption - could have just been break-in process that reduced consumption - but I don't add any oil if the level is between the holes. Just my $0.02.
 

DougS550

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For me, I don't have an issue checking the oil level with the dipstick.
 

Nfs1000f

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JAJ

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you guys check for oil?

What madness is next? checking tire tread depth?
It must be nice to run on fairy dust in your dry-sump engine. Checking the oil? What oil? Your engine runs on good intentions and magic. To paraphrase a truism, "everyone else's MMV".
 
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Lurker_350

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I joke, but I’ll probably forget to pull oil in it.
I've never done that on a car engine, but I may have ruined a brand-new Briggs engine for a lawnmower that way :crackup:

Won't do that again!
 

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Wow, 5 pages on how to tell whether the hole is filled or not. :cwl:
Yup- had no idea this topic would strum the exposed ganglia that warrants involvement in all things unnecessary. Or something like that lol.

In my first month and a thousand miles (bringing the total up to 18.6k), my garage mistress has consumed 2/3 of a quart. I'll call this 'fleet average' from what I've read (but well above the "Nope. Doesn't burn any oil between changes" statement from PO).

Though I may have to re-think that flashy Shelby dipstick t-handle. That little fokker gets a bit warm and checking when the motor is hot can produce smoke upon dipstick/finger interface.
 

Tomster

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Though I may have to re-think that flashy Shelby dipstick t-handle. That little fokker gets a bit warm and checking when the motor is hot can produce smoke upon dipstick/finger interface.
Then check it when it's cold, lol
 

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Old school hotrod trick read carefully

Stick in stick out, and be sure to keep your eyes open.
 

DougS550

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Yup- had no idea this topic would strum the exposed ganglia that warrants involvement in all things unnecessary. Or something like that lol.

In my first month and a thousand miles (bringing the total up to 18.6k), my garage mistress has consumed 2/3 of a quart. I'll call this 'fleet average' from what I've read (but well above the "Nope. Doesn't burn any oil between changes" statement from PO).

Though I may have to re-think that flashy Shelby dipstick t-handle. That little fokker gets a bit warm and checking when the motor is hot can produce smoke upon dipstick/finger interface.
I check mine cold or hot. But always use a mechanic wipe towel to lay underneath where the dip stick will be held over for your check.
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