White Line rear subframe bushing insert kit ?

[Gray Stang66]

I have a 2022 base model GT that is street driven only and looking to install the White Line rear sub frame insert kit KDT 943. I don't have wheel hop (or at least I have not felt it) , but if it does reduce wheel hop it's a plus. I have heard that this kit can also remove some subframe movement which should improves cornering. I'm on a very tight budget and I know that BMR and Steeda make great kits , but at $29.85 (on sale) for the KDT 943 kit from White line it seems like a no brainer.
I have the following questions:

1. Is there any NVH from this kit?
2. How long did it take to install? The white line site states it takes 4 hrs. , but it seems like a straight forward install that should not take long.
3. Any problems with the installation?
4. Did it improve cornering and wheel hop?

I would like to hear from someone that actually installed this kit.
Thanks in advance for your input.

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[CO5OTE]

Let's see a link to the product. I am currently redoing my front and rear suspension on my 18 GT. I'll see if I can relate anything.

 

[Gray Stang66]

This is the link for the rear subframe insert bushings.

https://whitelineperformance.com/products/kdt943-bushing-kit

 

[NeverSatisfied]

1. I did it while I was in there doing other things. No NVH road noise like the metal ones (i've done both). More audible clunks and noise from diff but hardly noticeable.

2. Depends if you cross thread a subframe bolt--read up on that. It's either a few hours or a couple days and a lot of stress as you attempt to find the right tap and chase threads you can't see. Popping the OEM "spacers/washers" off the rear OEM bushings takes a minute of a fight with a pry bar or two.

4. I don't launch hard so it didn't change my world after doing it.

 

[Gray Stang66]

1. I did it while I was in there doing other things. No NVH road noise like the metal ones (i've done both). More audible clunks and noise from diff but hardly noticeable.

2. Depends if you cross thread a subframe bolt--read up on that. It's either a few hours or a couple days and a lot of stress as you attempt to find the right tap and chase threads you can't see. Popping the OEM "spacers/washers" off the rear OEM bushings takes a minute of a fight with a pry bar or two.

4. I don't launch hard so it didn't change my world after doing it.

Thanks for the input. Any tricks on how to prevent cross threading bolt other than just carefully lining it up?

 

[NeverSatisfied]

Thanks for the input. Any tricks on how to prevent cross threading bolt other than just carefully lining it up?

Work them in pairs on each side.

When reinstalling, use a floor jack on the side that’s loose to lift the cradle up flush with the body. Then install the bolts for that side.

 

[Gray Stang66]

Work them in pairs on each side.

When reinstalling, use a floor jack on the side that’s loose to lift the cradle up flush with the body. Then install the bolts for that side.

Thanks!

 

[chuckhammer]

I eventually learned that those cradle mount bolts go in much more easily with the cradle held flush to the frame all around. Especially when using alignment dowels or bushings to remove the variation in mounting position. A 2' pry bar comes in very handy to nudge it into position and get the bolts started. I used a small floor jack to support it while working.

I went ahead and did all my IRS, diff, and suspension parts at the same time while I had it on four jack stands:
- Cradle lockout and bracing (BMR CB005)
- Cradle alignment bushings (BMR CB766)
- Diff bushing inserts (UPR red)
- Bilstein B6 shocks and struts
- Steeda Ultralite Linear springs

That way I only needed to get one alignment.

 

[Gray Stang66]

Thanks!

Forgot to ask. I only installed the White Line KDT943 insert bushing and according to White tech support they said I do not need to do an alignment . Did you have to do an alignment?

 

[chuckhammer]

Forgot to ask. I only installed the White Line KDT943 insert bushing and according to White tech support they said I do not need to do an alignment . Did you have to do an alignment?

If you're able to install the parts while keeping at least two subframe/cradle bolts tight then you shouldn't need an alignment. You may even be able to slightly loosen those other two bolts but you'll have to be careful not to disturb the subframe/cradle position such that it goes back into the same position afterwards.

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