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Whipple time!

SC_Ruby

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Well, tomorrow at 4pm EST, I'll be starting. Final checklist is good. Hoping for a smooth install. I'm sure a few functional checks of my potty mouth will be in order, as always. ;)
Hope everything goes smooth on your install Rob :thumbsup: Sometimes I wish I had the mechanical aptitude to do my own install but I don't so I left it to the professionals. My hats off to you and all the other members who did and are going to do their own installs. Looking forward to reading about your progress :cheers:
 
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Evo_Rob

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Hope everything goes smooth on your install Rob[emoji106]Sometimes I wish I had the mechanical aptitude to do my own install but I don't so I left it to the professionals. My hats off to you and all the other members who did and are going to do their own installs. Looking forward to reading about your progress :cheers:
I appreciate it. It helps having been a mech for 8 years. But with anything new, I'm anxious. I even had to talk to Jamie and Whipple about coolant types haha. But again, thanks. I'll do my best to do a full document on it.
 

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I appreciate it. It helps having been a mech for 8 years. But with anything new, I'm anxious. I even had to talk to Jamie and Whipple about coolant types haha. But again, thanks. I'll do my best to do a full document on it.
If the install is anything like the KB's install(which it should be basically identical), it's really not bad man.
Just be sure to ask a question or call if anything seems confusing from the directions.
 
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Evo_Rob

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Oh, I plan on it. Quite a few of these guys already PM'd me their numbers and we've touched base a couple times already.
 

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Tips

1. When you get step 47 lifting out the stock manifold try and get an extra set of hands to reach back and unclip the 4 IMRC connectors to the manifold. I did it myself but, it took me for ever:frusty:

2. When you get to step 88 bolting down the Whipple manifold first remove the small bolt and pass side heater tube with heater line connected. Remove the heater tube from the block to enable easier installation of the manifold. It plugs back in no problem after manifold is bolted down.

3. Step 56 make sure you push the knock sensors out far enough so when plugged in the plug end just touches the heads. Also make sure you remove the plastic legs connected to the plugs. They are under the elec tape and angle the wires, it needs to be straight.

4. Step 96 When bolting on the idler plate I used tape on the 5 support stands to hold them in place on the idler plate. Its nearly impossible to do without.

5. When removing the front bumper cover read through the Roush bumper procedure here and make sure you get the very small outer screws that are hidden. 2 are on top of the front bumper cover near the lights and hidden under the rubber seal, second picture under this DIY for front bump hood gap fix. http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43249

The other 2 small screws I think 7mm are hidden inside the wheel well. you can access them with a small socket and ratchet or with a 7mm wrench from inside the wheel well. You can see in the picture below the last hole next to the broken clip is where the 7mm screw goes through.

Roush bumper removal
http://www.roushperformance.com/parts/manuals/2015-Mustang-Complete-ROUSH-Front-Fascia-Kit.pdf

6. When you go to pull the sides of the bumper cover out of the inner clips I would recommend spraying liberally some WD-40 inside that seems to get the plastic lubed so it will slip put of the clips. One side of mine cracked when I pulled it out.


When removing the front bumper cover after removing all the screws on top and the 2 small hidden 7mm screws inside the wheel well and the wheel well liner as well as the bottom cover. The first step is to pull out on the sides of the bumper cover, this has a friction clip system, so you just pull out. well it doesn't always work out as you can see here, one side cracked the fender cover. It's just bad luck on my part, and maybe becuase it was cold in the garage when I pulled out. I was able to re instal the bumper today with no issue, but it did lube the clips so they would slide in easy.
 
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Evo_Rob

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Thanks Shawn
 

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Do yourself a favor and get a set of ball tip allen head sockets, the 6" long version. You are going to need them when installing the blower to the manifold. You need to come in at an angle, especially on the passengers side trying to get between the jackshaft. They sell them at Harbor Freight pretty cheap and at Lowes or AutoZone. Trust me, you'll need them.

I would also recommend a nice pair of hose clamp spring pliers, there are lots of these clamps throughout the install and if you get the pliers that hold the tension on the spring clamp you can slide it to where you want it and position it just right before releasing it, this will make your install so much easier.

Also make sure when you position the spring clamps make sure your able to reach them again after the install is done. You know, not bury them in such a way that you can't get the pliers back in to release them at a future date. I went back in months later to swap to be 170° thermostat (by the way order this from Lethal now, it's far better than the 160° that comes in the kit) and because I had the spring clips positioned with this in mind I was able to reach them without having to remove other hoses that may have been blocking the clamps.

If I think of anything else I'll text you and as mentioned, call me any time.
 
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Evo_Rob

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Cool, guys. I have all the tools and I just updated my notes in my book. Keep'em coming!

Already got the 170* as I heard the bad things about the 160*
 

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Cool, guys. I have all the tools and I just updated my notes in my book. Keep'em coming!

Already got the 170* as I heard the bad things about the 160*

Hmmmm...bad things about the whipple 160, what are they? I talked with Dustin about why many here are changing to the reische 170 over their 160 and he said it's only slightly better, but hardly a big difference so I never changed:shrug:
 

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Evo_Rob

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Hmmmm...bad things about the whipple 160, what are they? I talked with Dustin about why many here are changing to the reische 170 over their 160 and he said it's only slightly better, but hardly a big difference so I never changed:shrug:
I've just read that many people have hardly seen a reduction in CHTs. Honestly, I didn't know the kit came with spark plugs and tstat, so I bought both. So now I have extras just in case
 

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Hmmmm...bad things about the whipple 160, what are they? I talked with Dustin about why many here are changing to the reische 170 over their 160 and he said it's only slightly better, but hardly a big difference so I never changed:shrug:

As mentioned, the 160° works, the 170° just works better by a average of 15-20° cooler. Since CHT has a lot to do with how the tune works it just makes sense to have the one that keeps the temps lower.
 

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I've just read that many people have hardly seen a reduction in CHTs. Honestly, I didn't know the kit came with spark plugs and tstat, so I bought both. So now I have extras just in case
I'll admit all in now is I've read many here changed to the Reische 170 which they said resulted in lower and more stable coolant temps. I would like to hear from Dustin at Whipple on this. If the Reische 170 was so much better I'm wondering why whipple didn't include it in their kit.

Here is a Quote from Dustin at Whipple. "They are very close, the Reische might be slightly better but we're talking very small differences".
 

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I'll admit all in now is I've read many here changed to the Reische 170 which they said resulted in lower and more stable coolant temps. I would like to hear from Dustin at Whipple on this. If the Reische 170 was so much better I'm wondering why whipple didn't include it in their kit.

Here is a Quote from Dustin at Whipple. "They are very close, the Reische might be slightly better but we're talking very small differences".
I switched to the Reische 170 and the results were amazing. My CHTs average 185.
 

caustin69

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Just for an FYI....I have the Whipple supplied 160 stat. On my way to work this morning cruising down Interstate @80mph my temps were [MENTION=14297]205[/MENTION].... ambient air temp was 50 deg
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