Whipple dyno 900/730

[Reds197]

I would start making some calls about the rear diff now. There is no way it will hold up to a 4500 rpm clutch drop with sticky tires. That will be a minimum if you want the ET's you are chasing. My TVS car with 200 less hp broke the drive shaft and diff bolts 3 times on slicks.

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[doodguy]

I would start making some calls about the rear diff now. There is no way it will hold up to a 4500 rpm clutch drop with sticky tires. That will be a minimum if you want the ET's you are chasing. My TVS car with 200 less hp broke the drive shaft and diff bolts 3 times on slicks.

Ive spent enough on my car. Not worried about differential at this point. Im aware the geforce setup is 5k. I would likely just replace with another iron diff if something breaks as this isn't a drag only car.

Thank you though.

 

[Reds197]

You may not need the gforce set up. I would get the solid bushings and the upgraded DIFF bolts BMR has. I would talk to Kelly at BMR and have him set you up. $400 now may save you 5k later is what I'm getting at.

 

[BMR Tech]

@doodguy - Red is just looking out for ya.

Keep in mind, if your diff bolts do break....that's not "just a diff"

It turns into, broken halfshafts, broken diff, broken drivehsaft and possible damage to other components. That is a few thousand dollars.....when the fix is only a few hundred.

This isn't scare tactics, this is from experience. Both myself and Red have been through it.

 

[doodguy]

Ah didn't know he was referring to the diff bolts. I have the steeda diff bushings. I saw what you mentioned about the stronger diff bolts. You selling those now?

 

[BMR Tech]

Ah didn't know he was referring to the diff bolts. I have the steeda diff bushings. I saw what you mentioned about the stronger diff bolts. You selling those now?

You may want to see if [MENTION=25806]SteedaTech[/MENTION] has anything available for you.

At your level, I would only consider the Solid Billet Bushings, BK050.

 

[SteedaTech]

Ah didn't know he was referring to the diff bolts. I have the steeda diff bushings. I saw what you mentioned about the stronger diff bolts. You selling those now?

They are in plating now, should be available late next week grade 12.9

Mike D

 

[doodguy]

They are in plating now, should be available late next week grade 12.9

Mike D

Hey Mike,

I'm running the black steeda diff bushings now. Will you guys make the bolts only available? They're upgraded over the ones you're currently selling with your bolts?

Could you let me know when the bolts are avail and price?

Thanks!

 

[bigjohns97]

All this power on a convertible, that must be one crazy ride.

 

[doodguy]

All this power on a convertible, that must be one crazy ride.

Surprisingly stable. Fun though. Looking into roll cages that wont make back seat useless

 

[SteedaTech]

Hey Mike,

I'm running the black steeda diff bushings now. Will you guys make the bolts only available? They're upgraded over the ones you're currently selling with your bolts?

Could you let me know when the bolts are avail and price?

Thanks!

Yes, we will just make the bolts available. Plus,they are a upgrade over the current ones. Price will be out mid next week. keep you posted.

Thanks,

Mike D

 

[DiEzel]

Yes, we will just make the bolts available. Plus,they are a upgrade over the current ones. Price will be out mid next week. keep you posted.

Thanks,

Mike D

Shouldn't these be offered to customers who already own the kit ? Grade 5 home depot hardware isn't on the top of my list of "Must haves" for my car...

Not to mention, the bolt length included is an absolute joke - Already had a close friends insert strip, he had to through bolt it, which is how it should've been done in the first place..


Sorry for Hijacking OP - Awesome numbers. Hope to achieve similar once cams and fuel system are installed here shortly. :first:

 

[doodguy]

Shouldn't these be offered to customers who already own the kit ? Grade 5 home depot hardware isn't on the top of my list of "Must haves" for my car...

Not to mention, the bolt length included is an absolute joke - Already had a close friends insert strip, he had to through bolt it, which is how it should've been done in the first place..


Sorry for Hijacking OP - Awesome numbers. Hope to achieve similar once cams and fuel system are installed here shortly. :first:

Thanks! Just ordered my 3.0 pulley going to shoot for closer to 1k

 

[SteedaTech]

Shouldn't these be offered to customers who already own the kit ? Grade 5 home depot hardware isn't on the top of my list of "Must haves" for my car...

Not to mention, the bolt length included is an absolute joke - Already had a close friends insert strip, he had to through bolt it, which is how it should've been done in the first place..

I
Sorry for Hijacking OP - Awesome numbers. Hope to achieve similar once cams and fuel system are installed here shortly. :first:

The current and past fasteners are sourced through a high quality European supplier and are grade 10.9. If you received Home Depot grade 5 bolts either the kit was compromised or its somebody that claims it to be a Steeda kit.

Also, the current kit has been used on Melissa's Urist 1000 hp quarter mile drag car, with no issues using the current Steeda fasteners

Could please have the customer email me with more details would be appreciated. Steeda would like to investigate this further, thanks for your help.

[email protected]

 

[Terminated]

The current and past fasteners are sourced through a high quality European supplier and are grade 10.9. If you received Home Depot grade 5 bolts either the kit was compromised or its somebody that claims it to be a Steeda kit.

Also, the current kit has been used on Melissa's Urist 1000 hp quarter mile drag car, with no issues using the current Steeda fasteners

Could please have the customer email me with more details would be appreciated. Steeda would like to investigate this further, thanks for your help.

[email protected]

[MENTION=12245]DiEzel[/MENTION] is referring to me. I was actually emailing with you guys about this previously.

I'm not making 1000 horsepower, but I did manage to completely strip out the threads in the bushing. This occurred after my 2nd use of line-lock on Nitto NT05s before a pass. I noticed a light clunk that got worse on my trip home. If it helps, I'm running pretty much all of your suspension components and and the aluminum inserts.

The steel bolt on the driver's side front (by the gas tank) had pulled and stripped out the threads in the factory pressed in bushing. After I dropped down the subframe I could really look at the threads on the rest of the inserts and both fronts were pretty rough. Driver's side was obviously stripped as the bolt was falling out and only held in by the gas tank. Pass. side wasn't as far along, but the threads weren't in good shape and would have been an eventual problem.

The biggest problem wasn't the grade of the bolt (although they don't seem to be 10.9 grade?), but the length and design all together. Most of the 65mm bolt is going through the bushing leaving little thread to bite. From past projects and experience, the general rule of thumb is to have the thread be 1.5x that of the bolt diameter. Double for aluminum threads like our OEM inserts. So, figure the bolt is 14mm in diameter, you'd want at least 28mm of thread biting into the insert. Even that may still not be enough for cars making good power and getting pushed hard.

My solution was to run hardened M14x5" bolts through the entire cradle and nylon nut them. Yes, it's more work to drop the rear end- but I know it'll never snap or strip out.

Sorry to OP for hijacking the thread. Awesome numbers for sure!

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