Which Mods for new car ?

[tokuzumi]

GT350 also sells for 2x what a GT would. Not going to assume the OP's financial situation, but with a payment that is 2x what he's paying now, not sure there's any room in the budget to build up the 350.

Agreed the GT350 already has a lot of go-fast parts installed on it. But $25k+ buys a lot of aftermarket parts.

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[cib24]

First mods: A torsen if you don't have one, and gears.

 

[regular6g]

Steeda handling braces. Huge difference and doesn't mess with warranty. My first mod and really was worth it.

 

[NoVaGT]

Hey guys I just picked up a 2017 Mustang GT Premium with only 3k miles a week ago. It’s all stock currently. I just ordered a MBRP Street Catback. What would be some other good mods? I don’t want to run a tune just yet.
What Cold Air Intake is best for no tune as well?

Thanks !

A CAI is of no help without a tune, so forget about it. It's also doubtful that a CAI helps even when tuned, because the factory CAI is pretty damn good.

Other than that, YOU need to decide what you want the car to be. What changes you want, how you will use the car.

No one here can answer those questions for you.

Share what you want the car to be, then folks here can help you.

 

[NoVaGT]

You buy a new car with a 6 year loan. You go out get a JLT and a E85 tune. 3 months later when the car does it's first oil change they find metal shavings because Jeff who assembled your engine didn't clock the rings right. Or forgot to lube a con rod bearing.

Your service advisor decides to do a warranty claim to get you a new engine, but during the report they realize your PCM has been flashed...

Guess who's now stuck with a lawn ornament they have to pay for for the next 5 year's and 9 months...

Post ONE first-hand example of anything even remotely close to this happening. Ever.

Just one. We'll wait. And while we're waiting, I'll share all the repairs covered under warranty I've had done, while my car was modified.

OP, feel free to do minor mods to your car. Ford doesn't care, nor do it's dealership service departments. It's only major mods like forced induction that can cause issues with warranty.

Plus, the OP's car is already 3 years old. It's probably out of warranty already.

 

[3star2nr]

GT350 also sells for 2x what a GT would. Not going to assume the OP's financial situation, but with a payment that is 2x what he's paying now, not sure there's any room in the budget to build up the 350.

Agreed the GT350 already has a lot of go-fast parts installed on it. But $25k+ buys a lot of aftermarket parts.

Not necessarily true... A GT350 is only about 10k more. But in all honesty the fact that it comes with oil coolers on the trans and rear diff, the tr3160 tranny, better heads, better rear axles, driveshaft, suspension. Not just shocks and springs but also aluminum knuckles, etc makes it an overall better starting point all things being equal...

What you'll find building these cars is most of your mods go into supporting mods to keep it some what reliable vs actually making power.

I'm just giving my advice for the scenario in which the car isn't intended to be a daily driver and only a project. Its easier to start with a cleaner canvas

 

[tokuzumi]

Maybe option for option, the GT gets a little closer to the price to the GT350. But doing the Hoovies Garage "cheapest vehicle in my area method", Cheapest 2017 GT was $19k. Cheapest 2017 GT350 was $42k. But I didn't check the mileage difference between the two. Plus, the 350s come standard with Sync 3 which would require the premium package, which adds cost to the value of the GT.

 

[3star2nr]

Maybe option for option, the GT gets a little closer to the price to the GT350. But doing the Hoovies Garage "cheapest vehicle in my area method", Cheapest 2017 GT was $19k. Cheapest 2017 GT350 was $42k. But I didn't check the mileage difference between the two. Plus, the 350s come standard with Sync 3 which would require the premium package, which adds cost to the value of the GT.

Like u said its a moot point I just realized the ops car is 3 years old... At this point he can pretty much do whatever... No real warranty risks left.

I'd drive the car for a few months then decide what u want. If u want alot more power get a used whipple.

If u just want noise and A bit more power do exhaust mods...

If u want to impress people who dont care get a turbo kit

 

[Järn]

I may be a Mustang rookie however, I will recommend 3 things from Steeda to stiffen up the frame 1) Strut Tower Brace, 2) G-Trac K-Member Brace and 3) Stop the Hop-Starter Kit.

 

[Bladerunner70]

No, not if the OP is sticking with the stock intake manifold.

 

[FirstGT]

While you're still making payments you need every mod to be 100% reversible and untraceable especially if its a daily driver.

And before u do any mod do a simple compression test to make sure the motors healthy.

If it's a play car that u drive twice a month do whatever... And if that's the case id tell you to trade up for a GT350 and build on that...

The GT350 IMHO is the better platform to build on... Yes the Voodoo has some issues SOME Coyotes dont have but who cares... If it's a weekend car you have time to let it sit while building the motor... Parts cost about the same so provided you dont bend the crank i would build on the gt350.

This makes zero sense. Your financial advice is to recommend a car that costs double and has known issues which sometimes has the car ending up at Ford for months? Lmfao. Yup solid advice

Thats just solid advice though...

You buy a new car with a 6 year loan. You go out get a JLT and a E85 tune. 3 months later when the car does it's first oil change they find metal shavings because Jeff who assembled your engine didn't clock the rings right. Or forgot to lube a con rod bearing.

Your service advisor decides to do a warranty claim to get you a new engine, but during the report they realize your PCM has been flashed...

Guess who's now stuck with a lawn ornament they have to pay for for the next 5 year's and 9 months...

New car take the time to learn it, plus what you think you want now may change. I bought my car in 2016. I was planning on a cobrajet intake and cams. The 2018 manifold hadn't been invented yet... Now after 3 years I know the stock manifold is the best option for what i want out of the car...

Just by waiting I just saved $2k...

You may have saved 2k but that has no bearing on whether the car was paid for or not.

I will agree with you on lawn ornament aspect but will add that there's a million mods besides power adders. My 15 I tuned right away. My 18, not so much. I'll wait until power train runs out just bc even though I hate to admit it, everyone making a big deal outta the "engine issues" with 18+, I'm q little nervous to willingly give up warranty.

 

[Bladerunner70]

To add a little perspective on the comments directly above; it seems to me, if something catastrophic were going to happen to the OP's engine, it would have by now? Catastrophic engine failures due to faulty assembly or out-of-spec/inferior/defective OEM parts almost always happen within the first thousand miles. If the OP's car has made it to 7K trouble-free miles, I would say he is in the clear.

And if he chooses to have his car tuned (highly recommended), as long as he goes with a reputable tuner, he is going to be safe because the "good" tuners are not going to give him a tune that is likely to grenade his engine. They are going to limit the RPM, timing tables, and fueling maps to reasonable and safe limits. It is in their long-term best interest to give solid tunes that do not endanger the reliability of their customer's engines; and having said that I would recommend LUND Racing.

 

[Faceme]

Well, just for reference ill post what i did.
Right after purchasing, I did the mbrp catback, oil catchcan, 800lb axles (because i drag race car), drop-in filter, springs, and fat wheels/tires.

You can also do some cosmetic stuff but up to you. I plan to black out my roof and add a steeda wing.

 

[vernonator]

I would suggest Ford's power pack 2. It really changes how the car feels, especially in sport mode.

I will second this recomendation - it is also FULLY WARRANTIED by Ford Performace so no worries if your engine takes a dump. While not the most aggressive tune it certainly gives a nice pop and again, you do not imperil any warranty work.

Plus - Steda clutch spring, jacking rails. Don't forget all the fun cosmetic things you can do - painted engine covers, hood struts, blacked out badges, etc, etc. Mustangs are Legos for adults and you can make that car unique and 100% yours. Welcome to the Mustang addiction!!!

 

[shogun32]

change the drive-line (trans, diff) and brake fluids. And drive, drive, drive the car. Learn what you like and don't like. I'd probably toss those tire for better all-seasons but I can't make out what sizes you have. They don't look stock? CAI is the stupidest mod on the planet. It does nothing without a whole ton of other engine mods.

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