Which camber plates, mm or vorslag?

[Dominator961]

So what is the most mm plates will get, -2.2 is what i have read which is quite past the suggested -1.75 and supposed sweet spot -2 that most (including those posting here) have suggested.

I am going do diy this, although will need to find a way to compress the springs to get them on once the struts are off. Dealer said about $700 labor to do it, which seems pricey (and I have a Ferrari and Aston Martin as well and am used to dealer bs and forced diy).

So if you’re mind is made up on the MM plates why did you ask ?

Sponsored

 

[petstang]

I have the Vorshlag’s on my 2016 and @ - 2.5. My performance shop says they could allow to go lower without modifying the opening but don’t know how much.

I was pretty happy with them for about a year with 10 or so track days. Did my first track day of the year yesterday and now have terrible clunky / hard metal to metal noises coming from the suspension.

A technician checked it out yesterday when taking of my track wheels and whilst there isn’t anything loose in the Vorshlag set up, it seems to be they way the spring sits into the Vorshlag plates. Orginal Ford set up is with some rubber that dampens the noise.

If this can’t be fixed, I am going back to original set up. I wonder if there are forum members here with the same experience ?

 

[Tomster]

I have the Vorshlag’s on my 2016 and @ - 2.5. My performance shop says they could allow to go lower without modifying the opening but don’t know how much.

I was pretty happy with them for about a year with 10 or so track days. Did my first track day of the year yesterday and now have terrible clunky / hard metal to metal noises coming from the suspension.

A technician checked it out yesterday when taking of my track wheels and whilst there isn’t anything loose in the Vorshlag set up, it seems to be they way the spring sits into the Vorshlag plates. Orginal Ford set up is with some rubber that dampens the noise.

If this can’t be fixed, I am going back to original set up. I wonder if there are forum members here with the same experience ?

Reach into the wheel well and oil the rubber boot up. Grab a hold of the chrome strut rod with your hand or use a rubber strap wrench to secure the stud rod and then use an impact wrench to re torque the nut on top of the strut. Most likely it was not torqued properly on initial install.

 

[TDC]

Petstang, I heard you're on slicks now. Did the sound first start when you moved to slicks?

I have camber bolts and get about 2.3 deg and no clunking noises but the stickiest tire I've gone with so far are RE71. I think Arpa uses camber bolts as well. Did he ever have the same clunk when running slicks?

OP, I believe Honeybadger uses 3 degree camber in the front and has run PS2's. You should contact him as he tends to document all of his experiences.

 

[petstang]

Thanks Tomster, will try out your proposal.

Hi TDC !

Yes on slicks now and no issues with the suspension or camber plates on the track though. Was able to run costant lower 1.12’s on NJMP Lghtning yesterday. Arpa was there as well. He has indeed camber bolts and has exact the same settings upfront: -2,5. He has no issues with suspension noises as far as I know.

Noise is only driving on the road and when hitting oneven spots.

Noise started mildly after last track day we did all together with PCA in November. Got really worse after yesterday’s track day. I don’t think the slick are the cause but I might be wrong ?

 

[petstang]

Tomster or anyone else, do you know what the torque value is for the strut nut ?
Thanks

 

[Tomster]

Thanks Tomster, will try out your proposal.

Hi TDC !

Yes on slicks now and no issues with the suspension or camber plates on the track though. Was able to run costant lower 1.12’s on NJMP Lghtning yesterday. Arpa was there as well. He has indeed camber bolts and has exact the same settings upfront: -2,5. He has no issues with suspension noises as far as I know.

Noise is only driving on the road and when hitting oneven spots.

Noise started mildly after last track day we did all together with PCA in November. Got really worse after yesterday’s track day. I don’t think the slick are the cause but I might be wrong ?

Every time you go over a bump you hear klunk, klunk? If so, that's your problem.

 

[Dominator961]

Tomster or anyone else, do you know what the torque value is for the strut nut ?
Thanks

 

[MikeR397]

I’m leaning toward Steeda now as they can adjust up to -2.8 degrees and I’m not sure I’ll need to mess with caster that mm allows. Any feedback on the Steeda plates for $239?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sda-555-8139/make/ford/model/mustang/submodel/shelby-gt350

 

[tedj101]

I’m leaning toward Steeda now as they can adjust up to -2.8 degrees and I’m not sure I’ll need to mess with caster that mm allows. Any feedback on the Steeda plates for $239?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sda-555-8139/make/ford/model/mustang/submodel/shelby-gt350

I have the Steeda plates on my GT350 and I had them on my Mustang GTPP as well. They work fine and give you a huge adjustable range. You don't need more caster so the lack of caster adjustment is not a problem. Would I go with them again? Probably not. I would likely try the Vorshlag because they do not use the OEM top strut bearing which I think is a weakness.

YMMV!
<TED>

 

[JAJ]

I took my Vorshlag plates out because of the noise and now I'm running a set of Steeda's. The Vorshlag claim is "adds no NVH", which is true if you get them tightened properly (I did), but what it doesn't say is that it provides a metal-to-metal path for noise that's already there. You hear more road noise.

While Vorshlag units are a work of art, the Steeda units are also well-made and they re-use the factory rubber isolator and deliver more than enough adjustment range.

 

[MikeR397]

Thanks guys, I’m sold on a set of Steedas. Am already ordering their jacking rails as well, the full length ones that are $99 and have a $10 off coupon currently.

Off topic, are the caliperfexion caliper studs sold out everywhere? Really want to find these before having to do brakes again.

 

[Tomster]

I had steeda plates and I wound up going with Vorshlag the next time around. Steeda makes good stuff, but the hardware seemed cheap. Otherwise the plates themselves were very nice.

 

[Tomster]

Off topic, are the caliperfexion caliper studs sold out everywhere? Really want to find these before having to do brakes again.

@Epiphany

 

[Tomster]

There is no torque value. Use an impact wrench and keep going until it doesn't turn anymore. Failure to do so will leave a condition where the nut will back off and it will clunk around when you drive over a bump

Sponsored