What's In DFB's Cabinet?

[DFB5.0]

A joyous day playing around in my garage. Detailing, messing about with toys and re-organising a few things in the cabinets.

Today's product selection for the Ranger -

Working left to right; NV Snow for the pre-soak and Carpro Reset for the contact wash. Next, Meguiar's Hyper Dressing for the wheel arches and side steps, Koch Chemie GUF for the floor mats and Carpro Hydr02 for the wheels. Following that is Koch Chemie ASC for the interior wipe down, Invisible Glass and McKee's N-914 for the door jambs. Adam's Slick & Slide for the drying aid and Bowden's Leather Love for the seats. AMMO Mud went on the tyres at the end, the wheels cleaned with Sonax Full Effect, the tyres cleaned with Adam's Tire & Rubber Cleaner and hiding at the back is McKee's Rubber Floor Mat Cleaner.

Today was the first time I had used Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner.

https://detailingshed.com.au/produc...eaner-full-effect?_pos=1&_sid=f1452b0a0&_ss=r

These wheels were not that dirty, so I really need to try these on something more challenging. Like all of the iron-removing products, this stuff smells vile and is not laced with a scent to try and cover it up. It had no trouble getting the months' worth of wet winter road grime off these wheels.

It was also my first use of the Maxshine Step Stool -

https://detailingshed.com.au/products/maxshine-folding-step-stool?_pos=1&_sid=c21361fa0&_ss=r

I'm also really liking Koch Chemie ASC -

This product can remove a decent level of grime, and being alcohol based, it flashes off to a streak free finish. The scent is a little odd, something that will grow on you.

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[FKE SNK]

DFB - you have influenced another purchase. I just ordered some Colorlock for the seats in my truck and the wife's car. Have you tried their Sealant?

 

[DFB5.0]

DFB - you have influenced another purchase. I just ordered some Colorlock for the seats in my truck and the wife's car. Have you tried their Sealant?

Colourlock are brand that only deal in the protection and repair of leather and leather like surfaces. They cater to the automotive industry as well as furniture and fashion. For cars, these are the main products to look at -

Cleaners -
Mild Leather Cleaner
Strong Leather Cleaner
Artificial Leather Cleaner
Fabric Cleaner (Alcantara)

Protection -
Leather Shield (For vehicles 0 - 3 years old)
Leather Protector (For vehicles 3+ years old)
Artificial Leather Protector

Now, I included the products for artificial leather because the majority of "leather" in most cars, including the Mustang, is actually vinyl.

In regard to your question, I'm assuming the "Sealant" you are referring to is either Leather Shield or Leather Protector? I have used both, as well as the artificial version, and really like them.

Leather Shield -

Leather Protector -

The important thing to note with these products is that they won't give a very "obvious" result. A lot of older fashioned leather conditioners leave the surface greasy, shiny and slippery. These products, after cleaning as well, leave a lovely soft, matte appearance. So, you may find that a little unremarkable if you are accustomed to the shiny/glossy look from older generation leather products.

 

[FKE SNK]

I got the protector but noticed they had a sealant as well. It wasn't clear on how the two products differed.

BTW - I finally received the new cordless milwaukee polished for my guys at work. This thing is way better than I expected. I wouldnt say it replaces the Rupes - but if you're not doing an entire car it very well could.

 

[DFB5.0]

I got the protector but noticed they had a sealant as well. It wasn't clear on how the two products differed.

BTW - I finally received the new cordless milwaukee polished for my guys at work. This thing is way better than I expected. I wouldnt say it replaces the Rupes - but if you're not doing an entire car it very well could.

I must admit that I found the Colourlock system a little confusing. Being a German company, I'm sure they have a very precise reason for the number of products and when/where to use them. From what I have learnt studying the brand, this is a basic run down -

Leather Shield - For cars 3 years or less. This protects the leather during the first few years against wear, abrasion and discoloration.

Leather Protector - For cars older than three years, from here on this helps to protect the leather against UV damage and rehydrates the material as it ages.

Artificial Leather Protector - Using this product will come down to how anal you are with following procedures. In a technical sense, the only "real leather" in a Mustang will be the steering wheel and the seat facings. The seat backs, seat bolsters and the door panels are all vinyl. In theory, you would use the Artificial Leather Protector for those areas, using the Leather Protector on the real stuff. To be honest, I would just use the Leather Protector on all of these surfaces. As I said, whether you follow the German way will come down to how particular you are.


In terms of vehicle age, you are right on the cusp of using either Leather Shield or Leather Protector. Considering you already have Protector, I would simply use that.

 

[DFB5.0]

New Product Alert - P&S Absolute



(5) Absolute is here, and it’s ready to change the Rinseless Wash Game! - YouTube

This is new rinse-less wash solution, a first from P&S. Like other rinse-less products, this can be used across most, if not all, vehicle surfaces. Area's of use include -

-Exterior Surfaces (paint, wheels, glass ect)
-Interiors (plastics, glass and leather)
-Clay Lubricant
-Quick Detailer
-Can be used within a steamer
-Can reduce water "hardness"

And yes, I have ordered a bottle.

I don't do a lot of rinse-less or waterless washing, but I have been using these products more and more lately, ONR in particular. For mild interior cleaning (dusting), I really like using ONR for this role by spraying a towel generous with product until damp and then wiping over the surfaces. This leaves a clean, matte finish.

Along with door jambs, I also use ONR for wiping down benches, kitchen included.

 

[DFB5.0]

Clay Media – Clay Bars, Clay Towels, Clay Mitts, Clay Blocks & Clay Pads.

I remember the first time I used a clay bar on a car, a process that seemed so counterintuitive at the time. The thought of using a something to rub against the paint that we spend so much time protecting just felt all wrong. At the time, there were limited options available for claying, a yellow clay bar from Mothers was my introduction to the process, and I suspect many others would be in a similar boat.

These days, the term “Claying” refers to a variety of different products that aim to do the same thing; lightly abrade the paint surface, in the process removing bonded contaminants. Removing these contaminants improves slickness as well as improving the clarity and gloss potential of your paint.

For the most part, clay media come in a variety of forms and aggressiveness. Some can be incredibly harsh, others milder and safer to use in less experienced hands. Which you choose will depend on the level of contamination that needs to be removed.

This post will break down the main types of clay media and when/where they are best suited.

Clay Bar – this is what has traditionally been recognized as “claying”. These are natural or synthetic engineered resin compounds that sit in the palm of your hand and used in side to side movements across the paint. Once finishing a section, the bar is then kneaded to a clean surface. Clay bars have evolved to offer a variety of grades, from fine to coarse depending on what needs to be removed. Clay bars are also the most effective way of removing contamination, the tradeoff being a higher likelihood of introducing scratches and micro marring. Another drawback would be the need to throw the clay in the bin if dropped on the ground, and they can be slower and more cumbersome to use.

Clay Towels & Mitts – these are the next progression in clay media, consisting of a microfiber backing and synthetic clay bonded to one side. The action is the same, the towel or mitt working across the paint in a controlled back and forth movement. In general, these items are more ergonomic to use and considered safer on the paint. They can also be washed and reused if dropped on the ground. The drawback being they are less aggressive and therefore less effective on heavy contamination.







Clay Block – these can be similar in shape as a traditional clay bar but offer the same benefits of a clay towel. Clay blocks are made up of a foam sponge with a rubber like clay surface bonded to the bottom. They are easy to use and safe for most surfaces.

Clay Pad – while these can be used by hand, they were designed to be used on dual action polishers. In such case, you will speed up your claying process. You will however inflict more marring prior to polishing.





Clay Lubricants - this is an interesting subject as there are many ways to add lubrication for this process. Most of the major detailing brands sell specific clay lubricants which are said to offer superior lubrication when compared to other options. Those options include the use of quick detailers, rinse less washes and iron removers. There are also combination iron remover/clay lubricant products like NV Purify which combine the mechanical (clay) and chemical (iron remover) decontamination steps. You can also simply use soapy water. Myself, I prefer to use either Meguiar’s M34 or NV Purify.

Breaking In – this is only applicable to the newer style clay mitts/towels/blocks/pads. For the first use, it’s important to break these in on the glass prior to using them on the paint. This helps remove the manufacturing film from the product and prepares them for use on paint.

Storage – All clay media should be stored in an airtight container or zip lock bag. This helps preserve the media and prevent dust and dirt from accumulating on them. Also, it’s good practice to wash the media under running water prior to storage.

Tips and Cautions –

-The best way to tell if claying is required is to run the back of your hand across the paint, if required you will feel and hear the roughness.
-Never use a tar remover with these items, they will dissolve the clay.
-You can never use too much lubricant, the more the better.
-Discard a dropped clay bar, you significantly increase the risk of scratching your paint if you don't.
-Be smooth and controlled with your movements, don’t apply heavy pressure.

The key thing to take on board about claying is to only do so when required. I often read about people claying their car in a very casual manner, as in it’s something that can or should be done often. Keep in mind, no matter the aggressiveness of the product, you are abrading the surface of the paint. A well-maintained car may only need claying ever 3 to 4 years. If you park outdoors, work in an industrial area or by a train station, then claying may be needed more often, perhaps once a year. As a very basic recommendation, claying should only be done if you intend on polishing afterwards. Now that can vary depending on contamination present or the product you choose to use.

Happy Claying!

 

[2022 Mach 1]

I've read through a lot of this thread and I might have missed it, but what would you recommend for an at game ceramic coat or would I be better off paying someone? Thanks in advance

 

[DFB5.0]

I've read through a lot of this thread and I might have missed it, but what would you recommend for an at game ceramic coat or would I be better off paying someone? Thanks in advance

Can you clarify that for me please..........

 

[2022 Mach 1]

Can you clarify that for me please..........

Sorry. Applying a ceramic coat at home. Any recommendations or better off left to a detail shop.

 

[DFB5.0]

Sorry. Applying a ceramic coat at home. Any recommendations or better off left to a detail shop.

You can certainly do it home. If you are a little apprehensive, then I can most certainly recommend Gyeon Can Coat.

Gyeon Q2 CanCoat Evo *New for 2022* - ESOTERIC Car Care

Can Coat is a 12+ month coating with a very easy application that minimizes the possibility of high spots. It can be used on the paint, plastic trims, glass and wheels.

Gyeon's recent updates to their other ceramic coatings put an emphasis on being easy to use in all conditions -

Gyeon Q2 Pure Evo *New for 2022* - ESOTERIC Car Care
Gyeon Q2 MOHS Evo *New for 2022* - ESOTERIC Car Care

Also Consider Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light -

Gtechniq - EXOv4 & Crystal Serum Light (CSL) Kit | The Rag Company

 

[2022 Mach 1]

You can certainly do it home. If you are a little apprehensive, then I can most certainly recommend Gyeon Can Coat.

Gyeon Q2 CanCoat Evo *New for 2022* - ESOTERIC Car Care

Can Coat is a 12+ month coating with a very easy application that minimizes the possibility of high spots. It can be used on the paint, plastic trims, glass and wheels.

Gyeon's recent updates to their other ceramic coatings put an emphasis on being easy to use in all conditions -

Gyeon Q2 Pure Evo *New for 2022* - ESOTERIC Car Care
Gyeon Q2 MOHS Evo *New for 2022* - ESOTERIC Car Care

Also Consider Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light -

Gtechniq - EXOv4 & Crystal Serum Light (CSL) Kit | The Rag Company

Thank you very much

 

[2022 Mach 1]

Would you recommend ceramic coating over the Mach 1 vinyl striping?

 

[MAGS1]

Would you recommend ceramic coating over the Mach 1 vinyl striping?

You should be good ceramic coating over vinyl. Crystal Serum Light is good as @DFB5.0 said. Glassparency graphene ceramic is another good one. I’m going to be putting that on my GT as soon as my GT500 spoiler gets here and I install it.

 

[GT 550]

Amazing write-up on Clay!!!

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