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What to add factory subwoofer to trunk.

BrianH87

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So is there like a guide with pictures on how to do this yet? I really wanna do it to my 16 GT with the 9 speaker system.
Unfortunately, 15-17 mustangs seem to be lacking the necessary wiring to do so. The majority of this thread is in regards to 2018's, which (some models) have the wiring already in place.
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eddison

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So is there like a guide with pictures on how to do this yet? I really wanna do it to my 16 GT with the 9 speaker system.
I posted a write up in this thread showing what wires need to be run from the front to the back and even part numbers to boot. 16 should be the same.
 

michail71

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How do you get the driver's kick panel off to access the DSP? I found a video but the guy already has it off.
 

BrianH87

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How do you get the driver's kick panel off to access the DSP? I found a video but the guy already has it off.
If you're just changing the DSP, you don't have to remove the kick panel. It looks like you have an auto like me, so no clutch pedal in the way. It's tight, but it can be done. If you really want to remove the kick panel, pop off the small cover on the hood latch release lever. Then get a socket that will fit in the opening you just created, and push in while pulling out on the lever. The socket is just to release the mechanism, not to turn a bolt. It should pop right off this way. With the lever out of the way, the kick panel just pulls out. But do so slowly. You may need to pop off the door trim first.
 

michail71

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If you're just changing the DSP, you don't have to remove the kick panel. It looks like you have an auto like me, so no clutch pedal in the way. It's tight, but it can be done. If you really want to remove the kick panel, pop off the small cover on the hood latch release lever. Then get a socket that will fit in the opening you just created, and push in while pulling out on the lever. The socket is just to release the mechanism, not to turn a bolt. It should pop right off this way. With the lever out of the way, the kick panel just pulls out. But do so slowly. You may need to pop off the door trim first.
I see it now. It's just behind the ODBII port. Looks like it should be easy.

My existing version is a -BT.
 

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michail71

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That wasn't too bad. I had to swap the bracket from the -BT module as the replacement's was bent.

So far I have noticed without the sub in place this module does have a high cut off frequency to the speakers. So I have almost no bass now. That should get me to purchasing the sub a little quicker.

Also volume levels do seem lower. I have to set it about 5 to 6 numbers higher. I'm not sure if that is the lack of sub or the impedance of the speakers.

Are there any forscan codes for this module that need to be set?
 

michail71

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Well, I pulled the trigger on the sub and amp. $250 in so far. Now I just need to get the wiring harness.

On a side note... What speakers are we lacking in the 9 speaker system? There are two more (+ sub) in the shaker pro that we don't have. I figured now with the new amp, we might as well add those other two as well. The wiring for them might be there too, just like the sub.
You got a good deal. The only one I've seen on ebay was listed higher than you can get it for from the parts department.
 

BrianH87

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You got a good deal. The only one I've seen on ebay was listed higher than you can get it for from the parts department.
Yea, there were a few places asking rediculous money for their subs. One is trying to sell for $430 on ebay. I managed to find one for a decent price. Otherewise, i would have just bought new. Just remember you need the mount and bottom cover as well. Plus the hardware.
 

michail71

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Yea, there were a few places asking rediculous money for their subs. One is trying to sell for $430 on ebay. I managed to find one for a decent price. Otherewise, i would have just bought new. Just remember you need the mount and bottom cover as well. Plus the hardware.
I saw that one but I think you can get it less than that new from the dealer.

Have you noticed if the volume needs to go higher? I'm not sure if it is the lack of a sub at the moment. I could see the SP system being worse if you had a fully packed trunk.
 

BrianH87

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I saw that one but I think you can get it less than that new from the dealer.

Have you noticed if the volume needs to go higher? I'm not sure if it is the lack of a sub at the moment. I could see the SP system being worse if you had a fully packed trunk.
Honestly, I did not notice any difference in volume. It may be the sub that is the difference.
 

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michail71

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I also realize I did my test on Sirius which has terrible audio quality.

Anyone want to sell their sub? :)
 

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Any one determine AS Fact the car needs to be active exhaust equipped.? I have a 401a premium PP without active nor mag ride.
 

BrianH87

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Any one determine AS Fact the car needs to be active exhaust equipped.? I have a 401a premium PP without active nor mag ride.
No, it was kind of just a theory a few of us came up with. So far, those of us who have the necessary harness required to add the sub, all have active exhaust. Those who did not have the active exhaust, did not have the sub wiring. I'm going with this theory until proven wrong.

Also, I believe those who have magneride, with or without active exhaust, will have the sub wiring harness as well. It uses the same harness, so it makes sense.
 

michail71

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Then the next question is how much wiring is in place for magneride? I've been told wiring would be one of the tougest parts of a magneride retrofit.
 

michail71

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Any one determine AS Fact the car needs to be active exhaust equipped.? I have a 401a premium PP without active nor mag ride.
Check your trunk. You have to pull the carpet back on the passenger side.

There is one plastic push pin and a magnet.

Odds are so far it won't be there if you don't have those options.
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