What to add factory subwoofer to trunk.

[Cobra Jet]

My base model 18 does not have the connector, so there must be a requirement of at least a certain trim level to have the harness. I ran all of the wires from the DSP and power from the BCM back to the trunk area myself for about $50 (pins for the connectors included). My BCM already had a fuse for the sub installed. Running the wiring is fairly easy (compared to running wiring in my F150) and only took me a few hours.

I tried editing the AsBuilt of my DSP to enable the sub but it does look like there needs to be a hardware swap involved there.

Exactly what I have posted previously... there has to be a common denominator as to why some 2018’s w/9spkr system have the (40) pin connector and some do not...it has to be included with a certain body harness due X-chosen or ordered Equipment Group.

Is it only found in GT’s?

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@nerdh3rd - can you post any additional details, part numbers or pics of what is needed for the harness you built and how you ran it front to back in your 2018?

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[eddison]

@nerdh3rd - can you post any additional details, part numbers or pics of what is needed for the harness you built and how you ran it front to back in your 2018?

I’ll compile some part numbers and a short write up tomorrow.

 

[dcs550]

Hey everyone I'm new here. Since some 18's may be wired for it. I have a mint condition shaker pro sub with the bracket(complete assembly) that im looking to get rid off someone pm if interested. But I'm curious about the 2ohm vs 4ohm with the premium vs the shaker sound system. My lower door speakers and rear deck speakers are 2 ohm from the factory. What could happen if replaced with 4 ohm aftermarket speakers.

 

[BrianH87]

Hey everyone I'm new here. Since some 18's may be wired for it. I have a mint condition shaker pro sub with the bracket(complete assembly) that im looking to get rid off someone pm if interested. But I'm curious about the 2ohm vs 4ohm with the premium vs the shaker sound system. My lower door speakers and rear deck speakers are 2 ohm from the factory. What could happen if replaced with 4 ohm aftermarket speakers.

I was wondering the same thing. I mentioned it a few pages back. Shaker pro systems seem to include 2 ohm speakers. While 9 speaker systems seem to have 4 ohm speakers. There has to be some difference in the dsp.

 

[eddison]

For those that don't have the connector in the trunk and want to run wiring from the front back to the trunk:
Components needed:
- 3 different colors of 22 AWG stranded wire, 25 feet each (or 75 feet of one color if you can label your wires and know what each is for)
- 1 spool of 14 AWG for the power from BCM, 25 feet
- 5 feet of 14 AWG for ground wire and crimp on ring terminal
- 3-4 terminals, Ford P/N DU2Z-14474-AA, terminal WT-1000. You are probably better of to buy a pack of 5 of these; they are fairly inexpensive
- 1 terminal, Ford P/N EU2Z-14474-AA, terminal WT-1009. Verify from your Dealer or whereever you order from if you are buying a single terminal, of pack of 5. This terminal can be expensive, so make sure you only get one and don't pay for a pack of 5 if you don't need to.
-WPT667 pigtail, or JR3Z-14A411-C (subwoofer connector) that Robert found. The JR3Z-14A411-C harness is much cheaper, and you can just snip the wires and cut the connector that does not go to the subwoofer off.

I've attached the overall diagram for the DSP/BCM to amp wiring, as well as connector views for pinning the BCM and DSP connector. I ran the power wire from the BCM straight back on the passenger side to the trunk, and ran the DSP wires down the drivers side until I got to the rear seat, and then ran them over to the passenger side to meet up with the BCM wire, along the same path that the harness under the rear seat takes.

For the audio + and audio - wires from the DSP, I twisted those and wrapped them with foil to aid with interference. I also purchased a 25 foot spool of picture frame hanging wire from my local Lowes to run from pin 3 on the DSP and twisted that in with the audio + and audio - wires so it was as close to factory as possible. This required 4 terminals for the DSP connector - audio +, audio -, sub enable, and the pin 3 wire.

For ground off of the C4109A subwoofer connector, I just ran a 5 foot piece of 14 AWG wire with a ring connector crimped on the end along the lower trunk rear area near the trunk release. You will see a grounding point near that area to hook the ring connector up to.

 

[Robertp]

After taking with a hextails550 he says the ecoboost cars use a different dsp module as they have fake engine sound so maybe that’s why the ecoboost is different who knows, I’m wandering if ford just used what they had early on





QUOTE="nerdh3rd, post: 2308454, member: 26132"]For those that don't have the connector in the trunk and want to run wiring from the front back to the trunk:
Components needed:
- 3 different colors of 22 AWG stranded wire, 25 feet each (or 75 feet of one color if you can label your wires and know what each is for)
- 1 spool of 14 AWG for the power from BCM, 25 feet
- 5 feet of 14 AWG for ground wire and crimp on ring terminal
- 3-4 terminals, Ford P/N DU2Z-14474-AA, terminal WT-1000. You are probably better of to buy a pack of 5 of these; they are fairly inexpensive
- 1 terminal, Ford P/N EU2Z-14474-AA, terminal WT-1009. Verify from your Dealer or whereever you order from if you are buying a single terminal, of pack of 5. This terminal can be expensive, so make sure you only get one and don't pay for a pack of 5 if you don't need to.
-WPT667 pigtail, or JR3Z-14A411-C (subwoofer connector) that Robert found. The JR3Z-14A411-C harness is much cheaper, and you can just snip the wires and cut the connector that does not go to the subwoofer off.

I've attached the overall diagram for the DSP/BCM to amp wiring, as well as connector views for pinning the BCM and DSP connector. I ran the power wire from the BCM straight back on the passenger side to the trunk, and ran the DSP wires down the drivers side until I got to the rear seat, and then ran them over to the passenger side to meet up with the BCM wire, along the same path that the harness under the rear seat takes.

For the audio + and audio - wires from the DSP, I twisted those and wrapped them with foil to aid with interference. I also purchased a 25 foot spool of picture frame hanging wire from my local Lowes to run from pin 3 on the DSP and twisted that in with the audio + and audio - wires so it was as close to factory as possible. This required 4 terminals for the DSP connector - audio +, audio -, sub enable, and the pin 3 wire.

For ground off of the C4109A subwoofer connector, I just ran a 5 foot piece of 14 AWG wire with a ring connector crimped on the end along the lower trunk rear area near the trunk release. You will see a grounding point near that area to hook the ring connector up to.

[/QUOTE]

 

[BrianH87]

I got everything installed last night except for the DSP module. I ran out of daylight and was too tired to continue. The hardest part of adding the sub is cutting the darn carpet. It wouldn't be so bad, but the extra padding makes cutting tough. I followed a picture of a factory shaker carpet car. Hoping to get the DSP installed later today. I hope this works!

 

[Robertp]

I cut out the bare minimum but agreed it was a pain I’ll go ahead and help u on the dsp module bottom 2 bolts are 10 and top side bolt is a 8 u gotta wiggle it around and up to get the bracket to unclip

 

[BrianH87]

I cut out the bare minimum but agreed it was a pain I’ll go ahead and help u on the dsp module bottom 2 bolts are 10 and top side bolt is a 8 u gotta wiggle it around and up to get the bracket to unclip

All finished up. Thanks for the tips. The DSP was a little bit challenging to remove. That metal bracket is like a razor! I'm just glad I have an auto and didn't have a clutch pedal in the way. Anyhow, the project was a success! Thanks a bunch to Robert for finding this all out. This was one of the best bang for the buck mods I've done.

 

[Cobra Jet]

How much is the correct DSP module?

 

[BrianH87]

How much is the correct DSP module?

I think I paid around $30-40 for the DSP. They can be found all over ebay. Funny thing is the shaker dsp did not seem to cost any more than a standard dsp. Be careful that you get the right one. Look at the part number sticker. There are bunch that end in BP, BT, BN, etc... From what I gathered, those are the standard ones. You want one that ends in CP, CN, etc... Robert and I both got ones ending with CP. So we know that dsp works 100%.

 

[Robertp]

Correct there is take offs pretty cheap on eBay

All finished up. Thanks for the tips. The DSP was a little bit challenging to remove. That metal bracket is like a razor! I'm just glad I have an auto and didn't have a clutch pedal in the way. Anyhow, the project was a success! Thanks a bunch to Robert for finding this all out. This was one of the best bang for the buck mods I've done.[/Q

I think I paid around $30-40 for the DSP. They can be found all over ebay. Funny thing is the shaker dsp did not seem to cost any more than a standard dsp. Be careful that you get the right one. Look at the part number sticker. There are bunch that end in BP, BT, BN, etc... From what I gathered, those are the standard ones. You want one that ends in CP, CN, etc... Robert and I both got ones ending with CP. So we know that dsp works 100%.

 

[michail71]

2018 GT 401A and no magneride here. Sticker has 2/20/2018 date. Do I have the connector? I think the photo posted upside down.

 

[Robertp]

2018 GT 401A and no magneride here. Sticker has 2/20/2018 date. Do I have the connector? I think the photo posted upside down.

Yeap the bottom connecter with the blue onnit

 

[michail71]

Yeap the bottom connecter with the blue onnit

Thanks, I'll have to go back and decipher the thread. Most of if seems to be debating on if it is possible or not.

This makes me ask a few more questions:

1. Would Magneride be easier to retrofit given it was mentioned there is some shared wiring harness? I was told wiring would be a huge part of adding Magneride.
2. Does the B&O share the same connection there or is it different?
3. This seems like it would result in a 10 speaker setup. What would be the other two speakers that are missing

Oh, I had another thought, could this be there from having active exhaust?

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