What is the rear camber adjustment range?

[GJarrett]

Does anyone know what the rear camber reading would be if one set it at the outermost end of the slot; and the reading when it is set at the innermost end of the slot?

I wonder if it would be an easy DIY adjustment to keep it at the outer limit for street, and then simply push all the way in for HPDE track weekends, then back all the way out when I get back home (I am aware that I would also need to adjust toe when the camber is changed).

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[991GT]

For me the range was in the ballpark of -1.5 to -2.7 on the stock PP2 suspension. I probably wouldn't want to run -2.7 but I haven't tried it either.

 

[GTP]

I haven't maxed it to either limit, but I'd say post# 2 sounds about right.

I do change camber and toe for the front between street and track, but the rear is such a HUGE hassle (without aftermarket arms anyway), that I set it to about 1.8 degrees.

IMO, there is not a "perfect" alignment for track. Every track (and every corner) is different. You can run higher rear camber to optimize cornering at the apex, and yet lose a little speed because throttle-on-at-track-out is less than with a tire that is "stood upright" a little more. Also, with a square setup and rotating for tire wear, the rear wheels are the "rest" positions for tires outer shoulders compared to the front.

 

[GJarrett]

Yeah it's such a hassle I may just deal with one setting for the back and call it good. The drivers side is especially tough to adjust. My drivers side rear camber is -1.7 which sounds good enough, and my passenger side is -2.2 and easier to get to. Maybe set that side to match drivers side and call it good for both street and track (?)

 

[GTP]

Yeah it's such a hassle I may just deal with one setting for the back and call it good. The drivers side is especially tough to adjust. My drivers side rear camber is -1.7 which sounds good enough, and my passenger side is -2.2 and easier to get to. Maybe set that side to match drivers side and call it good for both street and track (?)

That's what I would do.

Check my posts on the DIY section for more tips and a review of the rear camber brackets. They add ease of adjustment for OEM arms if you plan to set them once.

 

[991GT]

Yeah it's such a hassle I may just deal with one setting for the back and call it good. The drivers side is especially tough to adjust. My drivers side rear camber is -1.7 which sounds good enough, and my passenger side is -2.2 and easier to get to. Maybe set that side to match drivers side and call it good for both street and track (?)

It's a massive PITA to adjust for sure. I'd set them to -2 and just leave it. Camber won't kill tires it's the toe that really does a number on them. For the drivers side just use the double wrench method and it's less hatefull...still some cussing going on but doable. It'll take a number of iterations but once you get the drivers side -2 +/- 1 then set to passenger side to match.

 

[GTP]

...
My drivers side rear camber is -1.7 which sounds good enough, and my passenger side is -2.2 and easier to get to. Maybe set that side to match drivers side and call it good for both street and track (?)

Just adjust the passenger side to match. But remember that the passenger side toe-in will also decrease as you reduce camber. So that will also make things a hassle since you have to go back and forth with those two adjustments and measurements.

 

[S_Paul]

I'm trying to picture the rear suspension... and can see how the toe will change with camber adjustment, but will toe adjustments significantly change the camber?

 

[GTP]

I'm trying to picture the rear suspension... and can see how the toe will change with camber adjustment, but will toe adjustments significantly change the camber?

Yes, they are interrelated and thus interactive. Change your toe and you just changed your camber. And vice versa. An unfortunate reality.

Are you working with a shop or doing all this yourself somehow?

 

[S_Paul]

I'll have a shop do the final alignment, but was asking more out of curiosity as I was trying to mentally picture the relationship of the knuckle and how its position changes vs the camber/toe arms inputs.

Have been accumulating parts for a little while now, just looking for the free time to do the install.
Originally was going to just upgrade shocks/struts and springs vs the stock PP1, but the pile of parts I have are basically replacing everything that can be considered a suspension component...

 

[GTP]

Does that include aftermarket toe links?
Are you replacing the knuckle bushing with the FP spherical bearing?

 

[mavisky]

Does anyone know what the rear camber reading would be if one set it at the outermost end of the slot; and the reading when it is set at the innermost end of the slot?

I wonder if it would be an easy DIY adjustment to keep it at the outer limit for street, and then simply push all the way in for HPDE track weekends, then back all the way out when I get back home (I am aware that I would also need to adjust toe when the camber is changed).

Toe kills tires far more than camber. I'd watch that setting and set your camber where you want it. Also repeatedly adjusting it will likely lead to slippage. I move to the SPC camber arms to prevent this. A pain to setup initially but fool proof in functionality and almost completely failure proof.

 

[S_Paul]

OP, apologies for the hijacking of your thread...

Does that include aftermarket toe links?
Are you replacing the knuckle bushing with the FP spherical bearing?

The toe links will be fresh versions of the PP1 links, as my car has close to 60k on it.
I have the M-5A460-M bushings for the knuckles and Whiteline W63498 for the control arms.

Only thing I'm still contemplating, as this car will likely only see on/off ramps in anger... is whether the factory style camber arms and an adjustable camber bolt like the Moog set I have are more than good vs an aftermarket camber arm.

Toe kills tires far more than camber. I'd watch that setting and set your camber where you want it. Also repeatedly adjusting it will likely lead to slippage. I move to the SPC camber arms to prevent this. A pain to setup initially but fool proof in functionality and almost completely failure proof.

The SPC arms were actually at the top of my list if I was to go replacement vs stock.
I'm guessing the pain to set up was due to having to take it all apart to rotate the hex inserts to make changes?

 

[mavisky]

OP, apologies for the hijacking of your thread...




The SPC arms were actually at the top of my list if I was to go replacement vs stock.
I'm guessing the pain to set up was due to having to take it all apart to rotate the hex inserts to make changes?

Yea just having to get them dialed into the adjustment range you want initially is a pain. After that adjustment is easy.

 

[GJarrett]

Toe kills tires far more than camber. I'd watch that setting and set your camber where you want it. Also repeatedly adjusting it will likely lead to slippage. I move to the SPC camber arms to prevent this. A pain to setup initially but fool proof in functionality and almost completely failure proof.

Yep after further thought, I'm just gonna set it once and live with a single setting.

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