WHAT DID YOU PAY!!!

[RedBush]

Looking for a car

Hi guys. I don’t have any experience negotiating a car. I’m hoping y’all could give me advice on the process.

I have been doing research and found a Koons 2016 GT premium with:
Auto trans 1.2k
18’ wheels 155.
Premier Trim 395.
Reverse Park 295.
Voice-Nav 795.

MSRP $40,130
WOW price $33,339

Koons has two other GT Premium for 30.8k but in manual. I have my eyes on a local 2016 GT premium with:
Auto trans 1.2k
3.55 ratio 395.
19’ wheels 995.
Spare wheel 195.

MSRP $39,980
Online price $35,699

I was thinking about offering $34,000 + TTL for the local car. Thoughts?

I am planning on contacting dealers for a quote on a similar in-stock car. How should I inquire about the cars? In the first email, should I give them an offer for a certain in-stock car? Or should I tell them "I am in the market" and have them shoot me a number and car first?

Any help is greatly appreciated,
Red

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[GT Pony]

^^^ For RedBush ...

Koon
MSRP $40,130
WOW price $33,339

16.9% discount ... quite the deal IMO.

Local
MSRP $39,980
Online price $35,699

Same 16.9% applied to $39,980 gives $33,214.

See if they will match the Koon discount ... but buying locally does have some advantages. They would probably take $34,000 + TTL. Use the Koon deal as leverage.

 

[redline727]

Hi guys. I don’t have any experience negotiating a car. I’m hoping y’all could give me advice on the process.

I have been doing research and found a Koons 2016 GT premium with:
Auto trans 1.2k
18’ wheels 155.
Premier Trim 395.
Reverse Park 295.
Voice-Nav 795.

MSRP $40,130
WOW price $33,339

Koons has two other GT Premium for 30.8k but in manual. I have my eyes on a local 2016 GT premium with:
Auto trans 1.2k
3.55 ratio 395.
19’ wheels 995.
Spare wheel 195.

MSRP $39,980
Online price $35,699

I was thinking about offering $34,000 + TTL for the local car. Thoughts?

I am planning on contacting dealers for a quote on a similar in-stock car. How should I inquire about the cars? In the first email, should I give them an offer for a certain in-stock car? Or should I tell them "I am in the market" and have them shoot me a number and car first?

Anything help is greatly appreciated,
Red

Find the car you WANT. Go to where it is and drive it, look it over and make sure that's what you want and you LOVE it. Don't bother talking about anything else until you know that's what you will be happy with. Do your research with an online payment calculator to understand where your payment should be with the sale price you are going for. Factor any money down you will be working with and sales tax. KNOW your credit situation so you can expect a certain interest rate when financing. Interest is key. Know what the interest rates are in the market. You should have an idea where you should be BEFORE you do any negotiating if your sales price and interest match to what you expect the payment is just math. ALL of the numbers have to make sense. DON'T just payment shop. I think anything close to 4k off on these cars is a great deal NOT including rebates. But if you LOVE the car then sometimes not getting the deal of the century may be worth it. If you are just bargain shopping prepare to take a car you will most likely make sacrifices on with options/color. Hope this helps. Any other specific questions drop me a PM I would be happy to help you.

 

[Schmidtygt]

One bit of advise is...the consumer that walks in educated with knowing what they want and what it's worth gets the better deal.
And no matter how cool a salesman seems they are never your friend or looking out for you best interest...they are looking for a paycheck! I Was in the car business for over 10 years it was the service side, but at a stealership, so I know how the game works.

 

[RedBush]

^^^ For RedBush ...

Koon
MSRP $40,130
WOW price $33,339

16.9% discount ... quite the deal IMO.

Local
MSRP $39,980
Online price $35,699

Same 16.9% applied to $39,980 gives $33,214.

See if they will match the Koon discount ... but buying locally does have some advantages. They would probably take $34,000 + TTL. Use the Koon deal as leverage.

Find the car you WANT. Go to where it is and drive it, look it over and make sure that's what you want and you LOVE it. Don't bother talking about anything else until you know that's what you will be happy with. Do your research with an online payment calculator to understand where your payment should be with the sale price you are going for. Factor any money down you will be working with and sales tax. KNOW your credit situation so you can expect a certain interest rate when financing. Interest is key. Know what the interest rates are in the market. You should have an idea where you should be BEFORE you do any negotiating if your sales price and interest match to what you expect the payment is just math. ALL of the numbers have to make sense. DON'T just payment shop. I think anything close to 4k off on these cars is a great deal NOT including rebates. But if you LOVE the car then sometimes not getting the deal of the century may be worth it. If you are just bargain shopping prepare to take a car you will most likely make sacrifices on with options/color. Hope this helps. Any other specific questions drop me a PM I would be happy to help you.

One bit of advise is...the consumer that walks in educated with knowing what they want and what it's worth gets the better deal.
And no matter how cool a salesman seems they are never your friend or looking out for you best interest...they are looking for a paycheck! I Was in the car business for over 10 years it was the service side, but at a stealership, so I know how the game works.

Thanks for the quick reply guys.
Redline I shot up a PM with certain details. I am willing to sacrifice options for price number, which is very important to me.
I recently went to a local dealer. The salesperson pressured me multiple times to give him a price number. I dodge that question multiple times. So, after continuous persistence I gave him a non-aggressive OTD number. He tells me that no one is buying it at that price. After telling the salesperson that I was researching the current market. The dude kept lying to my face.

All in all, it left a bad taste in my mouth.

 

[Rice_Stang_Vroom]

Thanks for the quick reply guys.
Redline I shot up a PM with certain details. I am willing to sacrifice options for price number, which is very important to me.
I recently went to a local dealer. The salesperson pressured me multiple times to give him a price number. I dodge that question multiple times. So, after continuous persistence I gave him a non-aggressive OTD number. He tells me that no one is buying it at that price. After telling the salesperson that I was researching the current market. The dude kept lying to my face.

All in all, it left a bad taste in my mouth.

Which Koons did you contact? Don't be fooled by the Koons WOW pricing. In October I contacted two Koons dealers in Baltimore and Sterling because they had the most attractive pricing on Cars.com. After negotiating with them back and forth for days they required me to finance through them at 4.xx% APR when I'm qualified for 2.56% with BoA. They left a bad taste in my mouth after trying to give them my business. I finally found a Houston dealer that gave me the best TTL price.

 

[bobbyh]

Which Koons did you contact? Don't be fooled by the Koons WOW pricing. In October I contacted two Koons dealers in Baltimore and Sterling because they had the most attractive pricing on Cars.com. After negotiating with them back and forth for days they required me to finance through them at 4.xx% APR when I'm qualified for 2.56% with BoA. They left a bad taste in my mouth after trying to give them my business. I finally found a Houston dealer that gave me the best TTL price.

I checked up with Koons this summer as they had a few cars that were almost a couple thousand less than any others on 2015's.

When I finally got a work up on a price they tacked on every damn incentive/rebate/plan known to man that I apparently wasn't eligible for and the price was no deal.

Some have had good luck with them but I won't be shopping at dealer's who are toeing the line between legal and false advertising.

 

[dink32788]

2016 PP Magnetic 6 speed manual. 401a, with PP, nav, advanced security, floormats, etc.

MSRP: 43,665
Price: $36,397
after rebates: $35,397


Koons in Falls Church, Va is amazing lol

 

[mysterio619]

2016 EcoBoost Premium Black
- Automatic
- Performance Package
- 200A

$33,500 (all in inc. taxes, TTL, etc.)

 

[Star711]

Finally got a deal I was happy with and brought my first mustang yesterday - couldn't have done it without all of the useful information on this forum - my thanks to everyone. MSRP was $41,570 (GT Premium-PP-Premier Trim-Nav-Security), I paid $35,550 (before tax, title and fees) $39,200 OTD (8.75% tax where I live in CA!!).

Buying in December helped, I may have been able to get a better price if I waited until Jan 4 but did not want to risk not getting the car I wanted, but what I think mattered most was getting one dealer to break ranks and then using that dealer's quote to start a bidding war by sharing it with other dealers you've received quotes from previously and letting them know you are going to buy from that dealer in the next few hours unless they can beat the quote by a meaningful amount. I'm no expert, this is just what I did to get a price I was willing to pay.

 

[GT Pony]

MSRP was $41,570 (GT Premium-PP-Premier Trim-Nav-Security), I paid $35,550 (before tax, title and fees)...

$6K off MSRP is one hell of a deal.

 

[1crazymach]

$6K off MSRP is one hell of a deal.

That's about what I got too and that's with Eaa, rebates X plan an order and wait for my car that still not here till mid January. One hell of a deal

 

[redline727]

Yeah I was at 5700 off msrp including rebates. 4200 off before rebates.

 

[Star711]

I should add that the discount included a $750 private rebate from Ford. I called Ford marketing the day before and told them as a loyal customer (we also have a Ford Edge) that I also intended to buy a mustang before Christmas. The very nice lady gave me a code for the $750 rebate to use at the dealer.

One more tip, even though I had agreed a price with the dealer via email before going to the show room, the dealer still tried to be sneaky and renegotiate the terms - I walked out twice. So be prepared to walk away and have a backup deal with other dealers in place. This will help keep unscrupulous dealers honest.

 

[lowatts]

One more tip, even though I had agreed a price with the dealer via email before going to the show room, the dealer still tried to be sneaky and renegotiate the terms - I walked out twice.

I second that. Get a good night's sleep before going in to close the sale and sign papers. Regardless of how low a dealer prices a car, they might try to change agreed-on items at the last minute so keep in mind what was agreed on and for how much. Better to have a written item price break-down with you so you can double check what you agreed to pay for each item. Some of these people get offended if you act like you don't completely trust them, but at the same time they're trying to squeeze that last dollar out of you. This applies to financing too even if you already worked out the financing terms with your own bank but your bank uses the dealer to complete the paper work (some banks have this kind of partnership with car dealers). Make sure the dealer is processing the loan documents on closing day with the terms you agreed on with your bank (including amount borrowed, interest rate, monthly payment amount)--I had to do this to get my terms even though I had already finalized all these with the bank ahead of time. Don't let your guard down until after you've signed the last piece of paper.

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