MGW does it right. With the added bonus of watching your dashcam recording of the dealer master tech swearing and getting ribbed by the others when he couldn't figure out how to get mine into reverse when trying to do a 3-point turn in the shop. LoL
I'm glad I did it before mounting the brace. Removed the battery cover and immediately lost 2 of the 3 push pins down the fender well. I look forward to testing it shortly on my favorite twisty roads.
It's so easy to drop those stupid things, lol. I used to get the OE ones but then I realized it's pointless when you'll keep dropping them...Finally got around to installing the Steeda strut tower brace that's been here for over 2 months. The hardest part was mounting the name badge.
Degreaser, brush, spray water bottle, and plenty of towels. Looks like new(ish) 
Ha. You better be calling it Stubby McStubberson.Installed the MGW standard shorty. What a bugger that top arm bolt was to remove and put back. Took about 5 hours total to install. Feels like 4.5 were spent on that bolt alone. I have a Billetworkz knob which fit perfectly and has quite a bit height adjustment on the shaft. I have it pretty low right now.
You're gonna love this brace I noticed the differences the 1st time I took it out as far as the battery retainer clips go to Amazon you can get 30 of them for 12 bucksFinally got around to installing the Steeda strut tower brace that's been here for over 2 months. The hardest part was mounting the name badge.
I did notice some improvement but still not as good as my 2018 coupe. I still have jacking rails and a G-Frame brace to mount. Another contributing factor, besides the fact that a vert isn't a stiff as a coupe, would be the Pirelli P-Zero tires. I noticed a huge improvement on the 2018 when I put Michelin Primacy tires on it.
I guess I didn't look close enough I didn't realize you had a convertible. I had to remove my jacking rails they were interfering with my quick Jack even though they say it's supposed to work.
FWIW, the BMR jacking rails work just fine with my QuickJack. That wasn't the reason I chose BMR after I bought both to compare, but sounds like another advantage.I guess I didn't look close enough I didn't realize you had a convertible. I had to remove my jacking rails they were interfering with my quick Jack even though they say it's supposed to work.
Enjoy your ride I've been doing winter mods while she's in storage so I don't miss her too much
If you haven't bought the rails yet, the BMR might be a little better for stiffening things. Steeda's design is to take some box and weld some mounting plates on the end. That results in only the mounting plates contacting the car. BMR is box the entire length with bolts going thru the boxed section into the car. That results in the entire length of the rail being against the car. It does have an effect. From the factory, the passenger door on my car was slightly harder to close than drivers. After installing the BMR rails, they were both the same. In other words, that full length contact forced the floor of the car into perfect alignment lost thru production tolerances or shipping.
FYI the bolts for Steeda full length rails also go through the boxed rail as well, so it will have a similar effect as your BMR rails. One of the reasons I chose the Steeda full length over the low profile rails that have the mounting tabs that you mentioned, to get that chassis stiffening. It is noticeable.
Wait wut?
I have the steeda full length rails and i lift my 2018 gt all the time with no issues, for the past 3+ years
I am not sure we have ever tested the Jacking Rails with the quick jacks but having sold 1000s of them - I have never really heard of this being an issue.