Vibrations Between 40-50mph

[kellyreno]

I had a vibration on my new 2019 Bullitt, the dealer didn’t want to know saying it’s a ‘sports car’ and is designed to vibrate, I downloaded this app which narrowed it down to the propshaft which they eventually replaced under warranty.

I had a vibration on my new 2019 Bullitt, the dealer didn’t want to know saying it’s a ‘sports car’ and is designed to vibrate, I downloaded this app which narrowed it down to the propshaft which they eventually replaced under warranty.

This kind of crap is why I traded in my Mach 1. "It's a sports car" Mine went in for 3 days to pull the right rear axle .

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[jonny10buds]

I’m British so some of the terminology is different but I guess by transmission you mean the gearbox? I’m 43 years in the motor trade and have never come across gearbox internals creating a vibration that could cause the whole car to shake, it would literally blow itself to pieces, also it would behave differently in different gears, power on power off etc, I think I’d be getting the propshaft work you’ve had done checked, not everyone gets everything right first time especially if its not their specialty, what is a calimer transmission?

 

[KilgoreLSU]

Have you tried different gears at that speed so the RPM is at a much different level.. or go into Neutral at that speed? That way the drive shaft and transmission are at totally different speeds..

That will help you figure out if it's driveline vs. suspension/tire issue.

If vibration remains at all different RPMS at that MPH or even in Neutral.. it's is probably not a transmission/driveshaft problem...

Many years ago, I did have a weird harmonic from a differential - not crazy.. enough to make my mirror vibrate at certain speeds.. I had it shimmed into spec and it stopped.. I was doing a ton of work on this 1970 Challenger.. so it was obvious when I changed out things if there was a problem.

 

[jonny10buds]

Have you tried different gears at that speed so the RPM is at a much different level.. or go into Neutral at that speed? That way the drive shaft and transmission are at totally different speeds..

That will help you figure out if it's driveline vs. suspension/tire issue.

If vibration remains at all different RPMS at that MPH or even in Neutral.. it's is probably not a transmission/driveshaft problem...

Many years ago, I did have a weird harmonic from a differential - not crazy.. enough to make my mirror vibrate at certain speeds.. I had it shimmed into spec and it stopped.. I was doing a ton of work on this 1970 Challenger.. so it was obvious when I changed out things if there was a problem.

The propshaft will always spinning at the same speed irrespective of the gear or neutral, my money’s on it being a propshaft issue.

 

[Farkel]

I’m British so some of the terminology is different but I guess by transmission you mean the gearbox? I’m 43 years in the motor trade and have never come across gearbox internals creating a vibration that could cause the whole car to shake, it would literally blow itself to pieces, also it would behave differently in different gears, power on power off etc, I think I’d be getting the propshaft work you’ve had done checked, not everyone gets everything right first time especially if its not their specialty, what is a calimer transmission?

https://calimertransmissions.com/

 

[Blufc3s]

This is what Ford did for me under Warranty. It didn’t solve the issue. As stated in an earlier post the hose clamp did.

 

[WhitemarePP]

Been dealing with this myself. My factory ds carrier bearing went out and the vibes started. So, after reading the 250+ post about vibrations on this site… I decided I did not want to “try” several factory driveshafts before finding one without issues. So, I ordered a 1 piece aluminum driveshaft from the driveshaft shop. I installed it and the vibes were way worse. I was frustrated and contacted the supplier and they sent me a new one. Installed the new one and same issue. I rotated the ds one bolt at a time with no meaningful change. As I studied the factory ds and the pinion flange with the yellow paint marks I realized the factory ds and the pinion flange were balanced as a unit. The flange in my car has 4 holes drilled into one side and 2 more, 1/4 away from the first 6. Ford did this to remove weight. So, I used a hose clamp (with car on jack stands) and moved it around in measured increments until the vibration was mostly gone. I used a sign on my garage door and whether or not I could read it from my rearview mirror as my gauge to determine improvement + or -. It’s livable for now but at some point I will mark everything from trans output to ds to pinion, take the ds out and the pinion and have it balanced as a unit at a local machine / driveline shop. It’s nuts that Ford doesn’t make the carrier bearing serviceable. It’s even more nuts they had to drill so many holes in the pinion flange and they balance it all as a unit. Must have saved them a ton of time/money but they created a nightmare PITA for everyone else. Oh and Ford’s factory warranty might as well have never existed. It’s a joke. I love my mustang and have too much invested in it to think of getting rid of it. However, I will NEVER buy another Ford product. EVER.

I hope this helps you. More than likely you need to remove your ds and pinion flange and have them balanced together as a unit… or use a hose clamp. I’d go jack stands and hose clamp first to prove to yourself if the vibe is truly coming from the ds. It’s time consuming but cheap. If you see a good improvement, then it’s probably the ds/pinion flange issue.

 

[SlowyoteJay]

Been dealing with this myself. My factory ds carrier bearing went out and the vibes started. So, after reading the 250+ post about vibrations on this site… I decided I did not want to “try” several factory driveshafts before finding one without issues. So, I ordered a 1 piece aluminum driveshaft from the driveshaft shop. I installed it and the vibes were way worse. I was frustrated and contacted the supplier and they sent me a new one. Installed the new one and same issue. I rotated the ds one bolt at a time with no meaningful change. As I studied the factory ds and the pinion flange with the yellow paint marks I realized the factory ds and the pinion flange were balanced as a unit. The flange in my car has 4 holes drilled into one side and 2 more, 1/4 away from the first 6. Ford did this to remove weight. So, I used a hose clamp (with car on jack stands) and moved it around in measured increments until the vibration was mostly gone. I used a sign on my garage door and whether or not I could read it from my rearview mirror as my gauge to determine improvement + or -. It’s livable for now but at some point I will mark everything from trans output to ds to pinion, take the ds out and the pinion and have it balanced as a unit at a local machine / driveline shop. It’s nuts that Ford doesn’t make the carrier bearing serviceable. It’s even more nuts they had to drill so many holes in the pinion flange and they balance it all as a unit. Must have saved them a ton of time/money but they created a nightmare PITA for everyone else. Oh and Ford’s factory warranty might as well have never existed. It’s a joke. I love my mustang and have too much invested in it to think of getting rid of it. However, I will NEVER buy another Ford product. EVER.

I hope this helps you. More than likely you need to remove your ds and pinion flange and have them balanced together as a unit… or use a hose clamp. I’d go jack stands and hose clamp first to prove to yourself if the vibe is truly coming from the ds. It’s time consuming but cheap. If you see a good improvement, then it’s probably the ds/pinion flange issue.

Yeah this and blue's replies are pretty helpful. Before pulling the plug on anything, I sent it to another shop that I actually trust for 1 more diagnosis (they've helped me with a new ecu when roadkill short circuited my last one). $40-$60 for another opinion that I can trust sounded like a good idea. Dropped it off today so I will report back with any news, and if they can't figure something I'll try out the hose clamp method next.

 

[WhitemarePP]

Yeah this and blue's replies are pretty helpful. Before pulling the plug on anything, I sent it to another shop that I actually trust for 1 more diagnosis (they've helped me with a new ecu when roadkill short circuited my last one). $40-$60 for another opinion that I can trust sounded like a good idea. Dropped it off today so I will report back with any news, and if they can't figure something I'll try out the hose clamp method next.

What did the shop say?

 

[eisenhauer01]

I did basically the same thing that WhitemarePP did when I installed my one piece alum DS from steeda.
I had pretty bad vibrations and I worked it out on jack stands and a hose clamp.

 

[SlowyoteJay]

What did the shop say?

Sorry I've been away on a cruise and couldn't respond.
So initially when the vibration issue occurred, it was the u joints. Apparently, when I re installed the driveshaft, the bolts connecting the driveshaft to the differential was not torqued down to spec . I could've sworn when I went back through the components, everything was good, but everything is back to normal. Only cost me $50, and ford wanted to say it was the transmission. Good thing I have trust issues

 

[kellyreno]

I did basically the same thing that WhitemarePP did when I installed my one piece alum DS from steeda.
I had pretty bad vibrations and I worked it out on jack stands and a hose clamp.

So let me get this straight. You buy a +48K car and end up crawling underneath it with a hose clamp? I am glad I traded my 2021 A10 for something else!

 

[WhitemarePP]

So let me get this straight. You buy a +48K car and end up crawling underneath it with a hose clamp? I am glad I traded my 2021 A10 for something else!

It is a PITA but is what it is. I love my old stang anyway. Glad your Chevari doesn’t vibrate.

 

[WhitemarePP]

Sorry I've been away on a cruise and couldn't respond.
So initially when the vibration issue occurred, it was the u joints. Apparently, when I re installed the driveshaft, the bolts connecting the driveshaft to the differential was not torqued down to spec . I could've sworn when I went back through the components, everything was good, but everything is back to normal. Only cost me $50, and ford wanted to say it was the transmission. Good thing I have trust issues

That’s fantastic it was something simple!

 

[Partlow]

I wish I had found this thread two days ago. I just swapped my ds back to the stock two piece ds because I had vibration with two Driveshaft Shop aluminum driveshafts, both at 45 mph. I was about ready to purchase another style ds. Now I'll have to try the hose clamp cheat.
Thanks for all the info.

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