Vibration after an autocross event..

[Alerch]

A little update. I had the tires checked and they were indeed off balance and with the tore bushings on the diff I went ahead and ordered the BMR solid alum bushings for the cradle and diff.. now the fun of dropping the cradle

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[WItoTX]

Solid aluminum bushings is quite the leap from the soft rubber that is there now!

 

[Alerch]

Solid aluminum bushings is quite the leap from the soft rubber that is there now!

For sure they are, I have the cradle dropped and stripped now...getting those factory rubber bushings out was not an enjoyable task lol now that I'm in there I'm going to replace all the rubber bushings with poly on the control arms front and rear.

 

[NGOT8R]

For sure they are, I have the cradle dropped and stripped now...getting those factory rubber bushings out was not an enjoyable task lol now that I'm in there I'm going to replace all the rubber bushings with poly on the control arms front and rear.

What method did you use to get the bushings out? Do you have any pics of the process to serve as visual aids for others that might have to traverse this road? Thanks

If you’re considering BMR‘s camber lockout kit, I recommend installing that while you have the cradle out of the car to make life easier.

 

[Alerch]

What method did you use to get the bushings out? Do you have any pics of the process to serve as visual aids for others that might have to traverse this road? Thanks

If you’re considering BMR‘s camber lockout kit, I recommend installing that while you have the cradle out of the car to make life easier.

I did watch a few videos on the ole YouTube and removed them that way.. Sawzall the rubber out and then cut the metal shell then beat them out with chisel and hammer.. I'm horrible about taking pictures but I'll try to show the install from here on out.. Those factory bushing are flimsy

 

[WItoTX]

For sure they are, I have the cradle dropped and stripped now...getting those factory rubber bushings out was not an enjoyable task lol now that I'm in there I'm going to replace all the rubber bushings with poly on the control arms front and rear.

Funny because I am about to have someone do the rear bushings on my car (no time to do it myself). You are making me feel like it's going to be money well spent!

Glad you got them out, would love photo updates if you got them as well.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Probably doesn't matter in your application, but for those reading - replacing any rubber or even urethane bushing with a solid metal bushing in the suspension (or any mount points to the body/frame of any vehicle) will induce a lot of NVH. Solid metal bushings shouldn't be used by anyone with a daily driver because the NVH on normal roads could be unbearable for some owners.

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As for Energy Suspension urethane components, great company, great products and there isn't a lot of NVH transfer by going from rubber to urethane. I've used their products in many Mustangs, never an issue with NVH nor any issues with their product breaking down after years of use. In fact, my 94 Cobra has ES components in the suspension which have been installed for over 18 years now, all components still look and function like new. The pros of using ES urethane (or similar aftermarket like Prothane), is that the urethane doesn't degrade (shrink, rios, tears) or become compressed like rubber over time and use.

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Isn't there a tool like this one that can pop the rear S550 bushings out? Maximum Motorsports had designed this tool for popping the large rear bushings out of the prior IRS rear diffs on the older Mustangs - and it worked in spectacular fashion.
https://www.maximummotorsports.com/assets/install/pdf/tools/MMT-5.pdf

https://www.cjponyparts.com/maximum...ential-mount-cobra-mustang-1999-2004-/p/MMT5/

Heck, even if MM doesn't have a tool like that specific to the S550's, there are plenty of smart M6G users on here who have access to CAD and CNC equipment that could make a similar tool for popping out the S550 rear diff bushings instead of doing it like cave men... I too used to do the old "burn/cut the rubber out of the shells", then hack the shit out of the metal shell to remove it before the MM tool (or using other hardware to replicate it). But even if a tool doesn't exist, one can fab up something similar to what MM designed using just basic hardware to pop a rear diff shell out completely.

 

[Alerch]

Well, it’s been a hot minute but I finally got the car off the jack stands this morning and was able to take it for a test drive.. First thing the gear whine and clunking is there but no where near as bad as some say it is.. I noticed it more at 20mph or less mainly I hear it in the cage otherwise it’s no different than stock.. now for straight line acceleration boy oh boy does this car boogie! I’m not sure if it’s my imagination because I haven’t driven it in awhile but it drives soooo much better the rear feels planted now. The big thing is no more vibrations so it was a win! Now to get it aligned and I should be back to the track shortly.

 

[Alerch]

I figured I'd update this thread.... After 2 auto-x events and a track day I'm happy to report the car has been working flawless.. Those solid alum bushings got rid of the wheel hop completely from a dig, on track the rear end is planted and no more squirmy feeling from the hind end.. Anyone even considering doing the solid bushings I say do it!! Money well spent even though replacing them sucks the ass but totally worth it in the end.. Now on to more mods for the Ole Stang

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