Valve cover leak

[lunatect]

The driverside valve cover on my 2016 GT350 has sprung a leak at about 22k relatively easy miles. I have never had this issue with any other car. Any of you have any valve cover issues?

Sponsored

 

[Bridgie]

Plenty of owners have…. I’m not entirely sure for the GT350 engine…. But, for some reason on the Coyote, Ford decided to put half the cover bolts in..
The bolt holes are there underneath, but they didn’t put all the holes in the cover to tie it all down..

1. Torque down the stock cover and see if it still leaks.
2. You can remove the cover, drill the additional holes, reseat and put the extra bolts in.
3. Buy the GT500 aluminum valve covers, which have all the bolt holes and will not warp.

 

[Joe Mac]

yep had mine replaced at 2200 miles

 

[DCShelby]

Those aluminum ones look nice. Got a part number for them?

 

[Bridgie]

Those aluminum ones look nice. Got a part number for them?

Ford Performance 5.0L / 5.2L Aluminum Cam Cover - Pair - M-6067-M52S | Levittown Ford (levittownfordparts.com)

 

[BlueThunder16]

Plenty of owners have…. I’m not entirely sure for the GT350 engine…. But, for some reason on the Coyote, Ford decided to put half the cover bolts in..
The bolt holes are there underneath, but they didn’t put all the holes in the cover to tie it all down..

1. Torque down the stock cover and see if it still leaks.
2. You can remove the cover, drill the additional holes, reseat and put the extra bolts in.
3. Buy the GT500 aluminum valve covers, which have all the bolt holes and will not warp.

I'm about to do this swap on my '16 GT since it just sprung a leak. Going to knock out the VCT Solenoids while I'm in there too. The thing I'm not sure about is the oil tube. Did you reuse the stock one when you swapped to the GT500 covers, or did you replace it with the GT350 one (part #FR3Z-6754-B)? I thought I read someone on here who did the same swap said he replaced it since it was a more proper fit. And some website descriptions for this part say the same. But if the stock one fits fine then I'm ok with keeping it. Thanks.

 

[Bridgie]

FR3Z-6754-B

I didn’t replace the tube, just used the original, a twist lock bayonet fitting IIRC.

 

[BlueThunder16]

Ok thanks! I'll just reuse mine then too if it seals fine.

 

[sox3]

Getting ready to do this swap too. Just got them back from the paint shop.

 

[loco_GT350]

Getting ready to do this swap too. Just got them back from the paint shop.

Post some picts after you get them installed.

 

[jacknifetoaswan]

Getting ready to do this swap too. Just got them back from the paint shop.

Maybe stick a camera around while you're doing it? Please? I really need to do this swap, but it's a little daunting to accomplish without having something to refer to.

JR

 

[sox3]

Maybe stick a camera around while you're doing it? Please? I really need to do this swap, but it's a little daunting to accomplish without having something to refer to.

JR
[/QUOTE


A buddy of mine has a YouTube ( Truccispeed) set up and wants to video the job, start to finish.
Will post it up when it's done and ready. Check out his other videos.

 

[sox3]

Afternoon all,
Today was cam cover replacement day. My buddy came by and recorded the process. Once he is done editing he will post to his YouTube page, Truccispeed.

As for the install we learned a lot.
Started on the drivers side as it would be the hardest. It was the hardest too but learning as we went. Found a small swivel head light was a big help at rear for harness clips and bolts.
We removed strut bar, air filter box, air inlet tube, oil separators and coil covers. That's all pretty straight forward to do. Strut bar nuts-15mm, torque to 41 ft pd.

Remove dipstick and then dipstick tube. We spent a good bit of time getting this done. The tube has a hex recess in the opening. Did not have a tool so we made one, used a 3/8 nut as the 9/16 hex fit into the recess best. 2 nuts tighten onto a bolt.. There is a small lock tab , then turn counterclockwise. Once free pull out. Make sure it goes back in the way it came out. Ask me how I know, lol.

Then popped the harness clips out, ones on rear are tough to get but patience works.
Disconnect the harness from coils and cam sensors, slide clips back then press on end to release. Remove 10mm bolt from coil packs, then pull out.
FYI-We found the rubber seal on 2 coil packs folded over, factory screw up.

To remove and install covers we used 1/4 inch flex head rachet, various extensions, swivels, 10mm to remove, 8mm for new bolts that come with covers.. Takes some finess to get the drivers side rear upper bolt and passenger side rear lower bolt. Once broken free will pull up and off. The bolts stay in the old covers won't come out. Used a magnetic socked to put in the new lower and rear bolts to ensure not dropping one.. New covers come with seals and gasket installed. Need to move fittings for pcv hoses from old to new covers and 1 hose mount.

That pretty much sums up the job. Spent about 2 hours on driver side, learning curve and took our time. Passenger side 45 min to an hour.

Hope this helps those on the fence. It's not a bad job, be patient, take your time.

 

[Bridgie]

Did you scrape off the old and re-apply gasket sealer to the front cover joints.?

 

[sox3]

Yes

Sponsored