upgrade just speakers

[Elapid]

Finished my base stereo install last night Jbl 638 3 way in door Jbl 628 2 way in rear set tweeter settings to the more mids and the system is much improved for $120 well worth it

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[RevvdMedia]

Update on my setup. I had initially installed Hertz Dieci 6.5" Coax in the rear and Hertz Dieci 6.5" two way component for the front stage. I had disconnected the center speaker and both the 3.5" speakers in the door. I really found the sound left something to be desired, not a lot of drive on electric guitars, vocals were not very pronounced, etc. My first solution was to integrate a 7 band EQ, and it did help a fair bit, but I was only about 85% satisfied...still not quite right.

Yesterday I finally bought the Hertz Dieci 3.4" coax speakers and replaced the 3.5" door speakers. Well, finally the sound is exactly what I wanted. It seems the speakers are all crossed over - the 6.5" only produce low (500 or 1000hz or less?), the 3.5" have all the mid, and the tweeters handle the highs. All I needed was to replace the 3.5" speakers to be happy.

Long story short, if you're keeping the factory amp (and door/pillar wiring), you need to replace all 3 speakers to get the best possible sound. Any speaker left stock will really bring the SQ down, except maybe the 6.5" woofers since they only produce low sounds, and the stock ones have some decent bass.

 

[tritran18518]

Does anyone know if JBL GTO 629 fit in front ? I read entire thread but didn't see anything. Thanks.

 

[RevvdMedia]

Does anyone know if JBL GTO 629 fit in front ? I read entire thread but didn't see anything. Thanks.

My Hertz speakers fit just fine and they require 1/4 to 1/2 inch more mounting depth than the JBL. You can't re-use the stock speaker mounts though, you either need to install the speaker direct to the door steel (need to drill holes), or get a proper spacer that isn't as thick, otherwise your speaker will hit the interior door panel.

 

[dwaleke]

I will tackle the fronts at another time(PPI P65c3) then I will be adding a 10 inch ported subwoofer to finish it all.

Have you made any progress with the PPI P65c3?

 

[shahram72]

Just read this entire thread and I am puzzled by all you guys replacing the rear deck speakers first. I want to buy a V6 Mustang which will of course have the base stereo. I would always change the fronts first. Might not even touch the rears. Aftermarket speakers always have higher sensitivity than factory ones and thus play louder and brighter. So with the fader set to middle, the soundstage will move forward, which is what we want. I already have some new Alpine type S I think which should be perfect. I did this many years ago with a new Ford pickup and the rears just acted as rear fill and I barely even heard them. Then I will add a sub fed off the back speaker leads which I hope I can access through the trunk, like I did in my old Lincoln Mark VIII. I am waiting for a wood sub enclosure like they made for the previous Mustang that fits in the stock location. I thought we would see one by now. They are cheap.

 

[Ultimateone]

I dont think many people want to take off the door cards, vs just popping off the over in the back.

 

[dwaleke]

Just read this entire thread and I am puzzled by all you guys replacing the rear deck speakers first. I want to buy a V6 Mustang which will of course have the base stereo. I would always change the fronts first. Might not even touch the rears. Aftermarket speakers always have higher sensitivity than factory ones and thus play louder and brighter. So with the fader set to middle, the soundstage will move forward, which is what we want. I already have some new Alpine type S I think which should be perfect. I did this many years ago with a new Ford pickup and the rears just acted as rear fill and I barely even heard them. Then I will add a sub fed off the back speaker leads which I hope I can access through the trunk, like I did in my old Lincoln Mark VIII. I am waiting for a wood sub enclosure like they made for the previous Mustang that fits in the stock location. I thought we would see one by now. They are cheap.

Rear speakers being down on volume is probably done on purpose. They are rear fill only. And even in this car I doubt many owners have people sitting in the back (which is really the only reason you'd have speakers back there at all).

I'm thinking about pulling them out completely to gain a few spl from the subwoofer.

The front stage is what needs work on this car.

 

[RevvdMedia]

I dont think many people want to take off the door cards, vs just popping off the over in the back.

Too bad, the door cards are very easy to remove. I can do each side in about 3 minutes each.

All you need to do:

- Pry the plastic cover behind the chrome door pull with a "L" shaped pick, can be bought from a parts store, pack of 4 picks, for about 10-15 bucks
- Pull up the window switch cover - 4 push clips holding it down. Pull out the connector on the bottom.
- Remove 10mm bolt behind the cover in the door handle and the one under the window switch cover
- Remove the 2 - 7mm bolts under the door
- Pull the lower section of the door out, held in by push pins
- Pull door card up and outward, look for the attached wires
- Remove the 2 connectors from the door card
- Either remove the door pull cord, or just lay the door card on the ground with a cloth / clean rag underneath (I do this, with the front speaker grill side facing the ground, lean the top towards the door so you don't put undue stress on the door pull cable).

Installation is just the reverse.

 

[ForTehNguyen]

use these for the door cards

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-pick-and-hook-set-66836.html

 

[clubamericalara]

Alright, well I ordered the following:

x2 JBL GTO629's speaker kits (price dropped to $59.99 on Amazon)
x2 Metra 72-5602 harness adapter kits ($6.95 per set on eBay)

Once I receive the items and get to the installation I will reply back.

Another thought - has anyone used speaker baffles or dampening mats to improve audio quality? After watching the Stage3 installation video: It seems like Ford covered most of the holes/deadened the doors a bit already. I've heard that baffles are a waste of money (can even hurt the sound) and mats might help with rattles / direction. At this point I might just use some rubber weather-stripping sparingly near the speakers.

are those harness adapter kits required or are the speakers plug and play? i have the base model just trying to replace the rear speakers

 

[Ultimateone]

You need them if you want to make it plug and play

 

[shahram72]

I am really confused and surprised here. I used to be heavily into car audio and everyone here is replacing rears first. Why? The stage should be moved forward, not rear. I may not even upgrade the rears if I can't really hear them after doing fronts. Why are you guys doing rear first? This seems backward to me. Do you like having the majority of the sound come from the back?

 

[RevvdMedia]

I am really confused and surprised here. I used to be heavily into car audio and everyone here is replacing rears first. Why? The stage should be moved forward, not rear. I may not even upgrade the rears if I can't really hear them after doing fronts. Why are you guys doing rear first? This seems backward to me. Do you like having the majority of the sound come from the back?

I also don't understand. I tried fading the sound to the rear but it just don't sound right. The stage definitely needs to be up front. I changed my rears, but I don't feel now that it was necessary, you barely hear them.

 

[shahram72]

I'm betting if you change the fronts, you won't even hear the A-pillar tweets anymore.

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