upgrade just speakers

[mumbles]

Can anyone please tell me which amp is good for both bass and inside speakers, we all know this car have limited back space and also which speakers are better PPI or JBL's, as you can see everyone is mostly talking about these. Thanks

Id like just a polk or boston system for front and rear. Thats enough for me on the base system.

PPI, JBL, Polk & Boston all make good speakers, so it's hard to recommend a particular brand. One thing to consider is the type of music you listen to... if it has a lot of high frequencies, speaker sets with metal dome tweeters can sometimes sound bright and become fatiguing to listen to after awhile.

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[Stunna]

I listen to jazz and instrumentals alot, I do have a high end sound system in my house, I thought about getting 2 pairs of Hertz DCX165.3 and maybe add an amp later, looks a lil complicated in installing one. I also like hearing the hall and concert effects when listening to music.

 

[mustang_guy]

PPI, JBL, Polk & Boston all make good speakers, so it's hard to recommend a particular brand. One thing to consider is the type of music you listen to... if it has a lot of high frequencies, speaker sets with metal dome tweeters can sometimes sound bright and become fatiguing to listen to after awhile.

I like classical, country, 70s and 80s, 90s rock. Everything alternative from the 90s to current. By alternative i mean stuff like pearl jam, avenged seven fold etc.

 

[mumbles]

I listen to jazz and instrumentals alot, I do have a high end sound system in my house, I thought about getting 2 pairs of Hertz DCX165.3 and maybe add an amp later, looks a lil complicated in installing one. I also like hearing the hall and concert effects when listening to music.

I like classical, country, 70s and 80s, 90s rock. Everything alternative from the 90s to current. By alternative i mean stuff like pearl jam, avenged seven fold etc.

Personally not a fan of metal dome tweeters, prefer soft domes. I would always recommend trying to listen to speakers before making a purchase though. Having said that, these seem to getting pretty high ratings;
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB6501/Polk-Audio-db6501.html?tp=106

 

[Stunna]

You think these speakers in the link will work with the factory radio?

 

[jbailer]

Wow, a lot of great info and advice in this thread! Thanks to all for sharing. I've been reading here for a couple days trying to figure out what to do. I really don't want to do more than upgrade the speakers, I'd rather spend the money on go fast parts but for those times I do listen to the radio (or my tunes on my iPhone), the stock Shaker Pro system is pretty bad. To give you an idea how low I set my standards, I think the bass will work for what I want, just some polyfill in the sub. After reading here, I decided on the JBL:

Front 3.5's. GTO 329
Front 6.5's. GTO 628
Rear 6.5's. GTO 638

At this point I'm still missing the tweeters which I'm reading are very important. First, I'm concerned the impedance is different on the Shaker vs the Shaker Pro after what some have seen on the mid-bass speakers themselves. Any advice on a reasonable set of tweeters to upgrade a Shaker Pro system?

 

[mumbles]

Wow, a lot of great info and advice in this thread! Thanks to all for sharing. I've been reading here for a couple days trying to figure out what to do. I really don't want to do more than upgrade the speakers, I'd rather spend the money on go fast parts but for those times I do listen to the radio (or my tunes on my iPhone), the stock Shaker Pro system is pretty bad. To give you an idea how low I set my standards, I think the bass will work for what I want, just some polyfill in the sub. After reading here, I decided on the JBL:

Front 3.5's. GTO 329
Front 6.5's. GTO 628
Rear 6.5's. GTO 638

At this point I'm still missing the tweeters which I'm reading are very important. First, I'm concerned the impedance is different on the Shaker vs the Shaker Pro after what some have seen on the mid-bass speakers themselves. Any advice on a reasonable set of tweeters to upgrade a Shaker Pro system?

On the pro system, the tweeters and 3.5s are each 8ohms and are driven by one channel of the factory amp. They are run in parallel which presents a 4ohm load to that channel. The 6.5 is 4ohms and is driven off a second channel.

If you aren't going to add an amplifier, you will need to replace the tweeters and 3.5s with 8ohm speakers or you will likely overdrive the factory amp. Parts Express sells a lot of good 8ohm speakers, but you will have to have some sort of crossover to split up the frequencies. There are several ways to add one, but you might read ForTehNguyens thread on how he did his just to get an idea... http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29714

 

[jbailer]

Can't I just replace the tweeter the way I'm replacing the other speakers? I thought (I know I'll say this incorrectly) the frequencies were separated and sent to the speakers, in this case the tweeter. Someone said a capacitor was all they used for the tweeter, crude but still works.

Ajax posted some pics of the 3.5" showing it to be 2 ohm. I wonder if that wasn't for a Shaker Pro and mine's different. The GTO329s I ordered are only 3 ohm, I hope I don't overdrive it. I guess I'll see the speakers when I go to replace them.

I'm still hoping someone comes up with a specific recommendation. Speakers are a mystery to me. You think you're buying a good substitute/replacement and you find it physically doesn't fit or your system won't drive it or something like that.

On the pro system, the tweeters and 3.5s are each 8ohms and are driven by one channel of the factory amp. They are run in parallel which presents a 4ohm load to that channel. The 6.5 is 4ohms and is driven off a second channel.

If you aren't going to add an amplifier, you will need to replace the tweeters and 3.5s with 8ohm speakers or you will likely overdrive the factory amp. Parts Express sells a lot of good 8ohm speakers, but you will have to have some sort of crossover to split up the frequencies. There are several ways to add one, but you might read ForTehNguyens thread on how he did his just to get an idea... http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29714

 

[mumbles]

Can't I just replace the tweeter the way I'm replacing the other speakers? I thought (I know I'll say this incorrectly) the frequencies were separated and sent to the speakers, in this case the tweeter. Someone said a capacitor was all they used for the tweeter, crude but still works.

Ajax posted some pics of the 3.5" showing it to be 2 ohm. I wonder if that wasn't for a Shaker Pro and mine's different. The GTO329s I ordered are only 3 ohm, I hope I don't overdrive it. I guess I'll see the speakers when I go to replace them.

I'm still hoping someone comes up with a specific recommendation. Speakers are a mystery to me. You think you're buying a good substitute/replacement and you find it physically doesn't fit or your system won't drive it or something like that.

Well, I stand corrected... never in my wildest dreams would I have imagined that the amp was driving less than a 2ohm load :shrug: The diagram shows the tweeter and 3.5 in parallel so I assumed they were 8ohm drivers... :headbonk:

Since your GTOs are a two way, I would not worry about adding tweeters until you listen to them. Your soundstage may suffer in height a bit, but should be plenty wide. If you still feel like you need the pillar tweeters, JBL makes a GTO series add-on set;
http://www.woofersetc.com/c-172-spe...-tweeters-with-passive-crossover-network.html

 

[jbailer]

Man that was perfect! I even tried looking in the GTO series and wasn't sure what to look for. Will they physically fit in place of the stock? If so, they look like winners to me! Then I'll be done.

Well, I stand corrected... never in my wildest dreams would I have imagined that the amp was driving less than a 2ohm load :shrug: The diagram shows the tweeter and 3.5 in parallel so I assumed they were 8ohm drivers... :headbonk:

Since your GTOs are a two way, I would not worry about adding tweeters until you listen to them. Your soundstage may suffer in height a bit, but should be plenty wide. If you still feel like you need the pillar tweeters, JBL makes a GTO series add-on set;
http://www.woofersetc.com/c-172-spe...-tweeters-with-passive-crossover-network.html

 

[shahram72]

I'm no expert but everything I've read from experts say that wiring a tweeter and mid/bass that are both 4 ohm in parallel is not near the same as two subs at 4 ohms. Impedance varies with frequency. A tweet added just does not strain the system the same way.

 

[mumbles]

Man that was perfect! I even tried looking in the GTO series and wasn't sure what to look for. Will they physically fit in place of the stock? If so, they look like winners to me! Then I'll be done.

Can't say about the fit, but it looked like the kit comes with several mounting brackets... I know people have been dremmeling out the factory grill and press fitting the tweeter, but I just have a hard time doing that to a new car! :eyebulge:

 

[Cobra Jet]

Just a question for those upgrading the factory speakers to aftermarket component speakers:

Are you excluding the aftermarket crossovers and just swapping the speakers into the stock locations?

Or

Are you also using the aftermarket crossovers included with the new speakers and hiding the crossover ... where?

 

[RevvdMedia]

Just a question for those upgrading the factory speakers to aftermarket component speakers:

Are you excluding the aftermarket crossovers and just swapping the speakers into the stock locations?

Or

Are you also using the aftermarket crossovers included with the new speakers and hiding the crossover ... where?

Most speaker "kits" are 2 way components, with the tweeter and the 6.5" woofer. The crossover happens between the 3.5" and the tweeter, and I believe the 6.5" isn't given full range anyway. Unless through the factory wiring the speakers are given full range, I don't think you could take full advantage of the component speaker crossover effectively, but I could be mistaken.

 

[shahram72]

Just a question for those upgrading the factory speakers to aftermarket component speakers:

Are you excluding the aftermarket crossovers and just swapping the speakers into the stock locations?

Or

Are you also using the aftermarket crossovers included with the new speakers and hiding the crossover ... where?

Like many questions I can't get answers to. I'll bet the stock door speaker are full range. Placement of the crossovers is not the problem, how you route wires into or out of the doors is. Have not seen one post on this that made sense. Some said they used the unused pins. How the heck do you reach it? On the driver's side you can't even see it! I am giving up on DIY and going to a shop.

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