Uh.....Guys?

[Condor1970]

Great work LOL.

Pro tip—OP already disproved it himself, today. His newly posted video has the car ticking like a run away typewriter.

It's not a tick. It's probably a bit of gear lash in the transmission. The BBQ tick my car had is almost gone now since I changed the belt.

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[bootlegger]

Yeah, sure. That is why nobody is supercharging these engines, right? Ok, I rest my case.

Have you seen the belt system on the supercharger kits? No way those are causing excess vibration.

 

[bootlegger]

Youre an expert internet reader I guess.

Better tell all those blower guys to immediately removed the blower because it is throwing the crank out of balance!

LOLOL

Get out of here with that nonsense.

No, just a guy who actually works in engine development. As stated before, it’s not about having equal load from all sides. Nice strawman doh.

 

[Condor1970]

Have you seen the belt system on the supercharger kits? No way those are causing excess vibration.

- The Whipple looks like it is an addition to the primary serpentine, and doesn't change the directional tension of the belt to any noticeable degree that I can tell. Maybe pulling a little more upwards, and not so much to the side. The A/C appears to use the same OEM stretchy belt.

- The Roush Supercharger appears to be an addition to the A/C compressor belt system. It appears to use a belt tension bracket that applies tension in a direction similar to the TSB. If there are less problems with the tick using the Roush specifically, then perhaps that may be a factor.

 

[accel]

Yeah, it even says in the TSB to just remove the belt first to see if there is an effect. I didn't bother, because I wanted to install a tension arm anyway. I was quite pleased when it actually made a difference.

I do not know how to remove stretchy belt other than cutting it. Do not know how to put it back either. So installing the tensioner back sounds to me like fairly easy option.

Long story short - this did not work for me. I still got the tick.

Irrelevant to the tensioner, but one thing I suspected before and observed again after tensioner installation -since I was running some errands afterwards - it seems to me that one engine start out of N the engine run is tick free. Like I start engine in the morning, drive to the store and hear the tick. Stop ghe car, go to the store, then come back, start the engine and until I stop the engine it does not tick. Then again next time I start the engine and it ticks. Can't really tell the "ratio" but it's like one engine start out of 5 subjectively that is tick free.

Like after tensioner installation I went to several places where tick is very easy to hear and sadly heard the tick. So I went to the store. After starting the car afterwards I was going to get straight home, but noticed I did not hear a tick. This made me go to all places again - no tick. I went home feeling happy. 30 minutes later I had another errand and next engine start the tick was back.

 

[Condor1970]

I do not know how to remove stretchy belt other than cutting it. Do not know how to put it back either. So installing the tensioner back sounds to me like fairly easy option.

Long story short - this did not work for me. I still got the tick.

Irrelevant to the tensioner, but one thing I suspected before and observed again after tensioner installation -since I was running some errands afterwards - it seems to me that one engine start out of N the engine run is tick free. Like I start engine in the morning, drive to the store and hear the tick. Stop ghe car, go to the store, then come back, start the engine and until I stop the engine it does not tick. Then again next time I start the engine and it ticks. Can't really tell the "ratio" but it's like one engine start out of 5 subjectively that is tick free.

Like after tensioner installation I went to several places where tick is very easy to hear and sadly heard the tick. So I went to the store. After starting the car afterwards I was going to get straight home, but noticed I did not hear a tick. This made me go to all places again - no tick. I went home feeling happy. 30 minutes later I had another errand and next engine start the tick was back.

Sorry it made no difference for you. Had a feeling this is something that only works once in a while. Mine still has the warmup tick too, but is much more faint, and the revving tick is all but completely gone. So I did notice difference for my car. I guess the one good thing, is that it will be easier for you to replace the belts in the future, without having to roll the engine to get a new A/C belt installed someday.

 

[GT Pony]

Journal bearings normally operate with hydrodynamic lubrication while rotating, meaning they are floating in a film of oil (without metal-to-metal contact) regardless of the radial forces put on them during operation. If varying loads and load directions caused journal bearings to fail, then connecting rod bearings wouldn't last for 200~300 thousand miles on engines. Loads in the rod bearings are switching direction every rotation of the crankshaft, as well as the loads in them (due to the 4-cycles of the engine) and the MOFT also changes slightly as these load directions and magnitudes change while the engine is running. Crankshaft bearing loads are way less varying than rod bearing loads, and the crankshaft is supported by many bearings, not just one like on a rod.

 

[accel]

Sorry it made no difference for you. Had a feeling this is something that only works once in a while. Mine still has the warmup tick too, but is much more faint, and the revving tick is all but completely gone. So I did notice difference for my car. I guess the one good thing, is that it will be easier for you to replace the belts in the future, without having to roll the engine to get a new A/C belt installed someday.

yeah. i feel like at this point I should bring my car to the dealer.

those 15-17 who will want to try this, engine cover just unclips without any screws. if you have perf pack - no need to remove strut brace.

I needed 2 breaker bars since one of them is stuck in serpentine belt tensioner until you install it back. I happened to have another one so I just continued.

Alternatively you can remove the first belt while your breaker bar is still stick in serp. belt tensioner, cut ac belt, put new ac belt in its location without actually installing it, reinstall serpentine belt. This will free your breaker bar to work on ac belt tensioner.

 

[zackmd1]

I think we need to start clarifying what noises we are referring to... We have the engine "tick" that has been around since 2011 commonly referred to as the BBQ Tick and then we have the engine rattle between 2k-3k RPM with light throttle tip in that seems to be common with 2018s.

@Condor1970 , Correct me if I am wrong, but it sounds like this mod has solved your engine rattle but not completely solved your engine tick?

@accel , Since you have a 2017, I am assuming you did this mod to solve the engine tick (BBQ Tick) and not the engine rattle found on 2018s?

 

[Condor1970]

I think we need to start clarifying what noises we are referring to... We have the engine "tick" that has been around since 2011 commonly referred to as the BBQ Tick and then we have the engine rattle between 2k-3k RPM with light throttle tip in that seems to be common with 2018s.

@Condor1970 , Correct me if I am wrong, but it sounds like this mod has solved your engine rattle but not completely solved your engine tick?

@accel , Since you have a 2017, I am assuming you did this mod to solve the engine tick (BBQ Tick) and not the engine rattle found on 2018s?

Yes, but my rattle wasn't very bad to begin with. I did have a very noticeable tick that followed engine RPM above 1,200rpm. That is all but gone. The only tick that remains is the random warmup tick, but the loudness of it is at least half what it was before.

 

[accel]

@accel , Since you have a 2017, I am assuming you did this mod to solve the engine tick (BBQ Tick) and not the engine rattle found on 2018s?

I was hoping some part of my tick was one that 2011 gt tsb fixed.

 

[Rash]

So wait ... just to clarify - are you saying you had the 2000-2500 rpm rattle/knock with light throttle, and that now it’s almost gone? I’m not talking about the bbq tick or the decel rattle at 1200 - I mean the rattle that is specific to the 18s and up that only occurs on light throttle at 2000-2500.

 

[Condor1970]

No you didn’t. There is an obvious tick toward the end of the video once he allows it to idle down.

Just clarify. Yes, there is some very quiet and muffled tick at the end. But, as I said several times...look at the engine temp, and oil temp gauge. They are still warming up. By the the time car is at full operating temperature, that tick you heard at the end, is all but gone.

The other noise is the one I'm talking about, and that sounds like some gear lash or something when in neutral. It's not the BBQ tick.

Also, even if you compare that slight tick during warmup to the tick in my other posted video, you will see how it is very muffled comparatively. The loudness of the warmup tick did go down quite a bit after installing the tension arm.

When the engine is fully warm, you really need to listen quite hard to hear any remnants of it. It sounds pretty much like a normal engine now.

 

[Rash]

Did you have the 2018 specific 2000-2500 rpm rattle? Did it help that?

 

[Condor1970]

Did you have the 2018 specific 2000-2500 rpm rattle? Did it help that?

Yes, but I had a VERY slight amount of the 2k rattle to begin with. Almost unmentionable. That's why I have talked mainly about the BBQ tick. However, that slight 2k rattle does not appear to be there any more.

The tick was the most concerning to me, especially when it became a constant tick with engine rpm when revving above 1,200rpm.

I think in "some" cases, the A/C belt is just pulling too hard to the right, and that slight pull, causes just enough misalignment to create some very slight ticking/piston slap. I'm just glad I haven't found anything in my filters "yet."

Keep in mind, I can't say this is going to work for everyone. That's simply not true.I feel bad that accel tried it, and has reported no change. I wish it did. I think this kind of thing only works on occasion, and it's why Ford didn't really push the TSB all that much. They just offered it as a possible course of action to help the issue. It obviously seems to have helped with "some" owners though. Like, me, and the other guy with the 2015 in the original video I first posted.

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