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TT top mount setup 2018+ worth 24k ??? please help!

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Hitani

Hitani

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$5k for the install is not terrible (although still pretty damn high), but $19k for just the parts...holy moly are those turbos made out of gold? A good fuel system is a few thou so I get it, but that means just the turbo kit itself with no fueling mods is $15k? Yikes.
so just the TT kit is about $12500. now keep in mind that I'm upgrading them with the billet ball bearing + stainless steel housing upgrade. Those 2 upgrade are about 2k.
I'm getting bunch of upgrades that I can void now, like the fore fuel system, OPG/CSG , short shifter. Those themselves are about 4k. but the thing is I'm trying to get the supporting mods that can handle 1200hp for my future goal. for now I'm good with 650-750.
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Only reason to go this turbo route is if you want like 1200+ hp eventually.
this is exactly why I'm taking this route now. eventually my ultimate goal is to hit 1200+hp with trans and engine upgrade. for now I'm good with 650-750. I wish I can upgrade both of them now but they are out of my budget (at least another 20k)

basically my plan is to get the supporting mods now for 1200+hp, drive on 650-750 until I upgrade the engine and transmission.
 

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My ultimate goal is to push at least 1200hp but I know for that I need engine block upgrade and transmission build. For now, with the mods I listed, I will be happy from anywhere between 650 to 750whp.
what supporting mods did you get for your low mount ? and what was your total cost if you dont mind me asking ?
I'm choosing the top mount because I always liked the look of it plus love the turbo sound lol
Ok, I didn't realize you were shooting for that much power. Turbos will get you there.

The only additions I did was 3 inch exhaust, Fore twin pump fuel system, ID1050s, OPGs (not sure I should have done that). Myself and the wife did all the work. We have about $16k in parts and will have $1200 in tuning as I am dong remote through PBD now but want to take it to them once I know all the bugs are worked out. My goal is to run single digits.

I like the fact that high mounts use gravity for oil return. I didn't want additional heat in the engine bay so that is why I went low mount.
 

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I'd say 25k isn't out of the question especially if you pay taxes on this stuff. I don't know if I would pick the hellion/precion turbo upgrades if I had to upgrade. The JB units are rates at 800 FWHP and can get you the 1200 you want.

I'd say take care of fueling as soon as possible or keep the power down. You won't be driving it with a blown engine. OPGs are nice to have, but aren't necessary for normal driving. Do that stuff with your built block.

There the problem you're going to face is back pressure with all that piping on the top mount. The bottom mount is much cheaper and makes power power.

I recently went down the rabbit hole wanting 1400+ wheel HP. These engines will probably cost you close to 20K to get done right.
 

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this is exactly why I'm taking this route now. eventually my ultimate goal is to hit 1200+hp with trans and engine upgrade. for now I'm good with 650-750. I wish I can upgrade both of them now but they are out of my budget (at least another 20k)

basically my plan is to get the supporting mods now for 1200+hp, drive on 650-750 until I upgrade the engine and transmission.
I'd get the setup that's flexible with upgrading your turbos later. Turbo sizing is a bit complicated with your trans and gearing setup and spooling (unless you're going to swap one complication for another with brake boosting and nitrous supplements). So ginormous hair dryers that can roll smoke deep into 4 digits are also going to have more lag. I'd recommend getting smaller ones now (if you only want to go 700 or so) which will spool a lot nicer and sooner. Then later, you can decide to swap them and all the other stuff should remain essentially the same.

you'll lose a little bit of $ on the swap out.
 

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this is exactly why I'm taking this route now. eventually my ultimate goal is to hit 1200+hp with trans and engine upgrade. for now I'm good with 650-750. I wish I can upgrade both of them now but they are out of my budget (at least another 20k)

basically my plan is to get the supporting mods now for 1200+hp, drive on 650-750 until I upgrade the engine and transmission.
Ask your tuner what injectors they prefer for that power level. I dont think id1050x will be enough. Atleast id1300 but they may prefer fic 1440's.
 

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Ask your tuner what injectors they prefer for that power level. I dont think id1050x will be enough. Atleast id1300 but they may prefer fic 1440's.
1050x will not be good for much more than 950-1000 on a gen 3.
 
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Ask your tuner what injectors they prefer for that power level.
they said 1050x's for my current goal (650-750) are enough. I dont mind changing them later on once im ready for big power
 

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they said 1050x's for my current goal (650-750) are enough. I dont mind changing them later on once im ready for big power
Why buy injectors twice?
These things are expensive. You're only 500-600 dollars away from 1300x or even less if you use 1440s or 1650s

just get the right ones for your end goals first, no down sides really.
exactly, you're worried about the total cost, and you're adding to it by not future proofing the project. only downside is if you're a gen1/2 car you cannot run injectors much larger than the 1300x on a daily. it will not idle right.
 

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Why buy injectors twice?
These things are expensive. You're only 500-600 dollars away from 1300x or even less if you use 1440s or 1650s



exactly, you're worried about the total cost, and you're adding to it by not future proofing the project. only downside is if you're a gen1/2 car you cannot run injectors much larger than the 1300x on a daily. it will not idle right.
that was my worry actually; running weird or not idling right. So you think getting the 1300 for 650-700 range my car wont run/idle weird ? I can ask the tuner, because honestly like you said, its just 500$ away so mind as well get them now and save the installation twice.
 

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Why buy injectors twice?
These things are expensive. You're only 500-600 dollars away from 1300x or even less if you use 1440s or 1650s



exactly, you're worried about the total cost, and you're adding to it by not future proofing the project.
that was my worry actually; running weird or not idling right. So you think getting the 1300 for 650-700 range my car wont run/idle weird ? I can ask the tuner, because honestly like you said, its just 500$ away so mind as well get them now and save the installation twice.
are you a Gen 1 or Gen 2 car?

Edit* 2018 manual car..... I went to first page.
The PI injectors won't even turn on at low load conditions.
You can run the biggest injector Depending on if you will ever swap back to 93.... there are always minimum injector on times and minimum applied voltages
 
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id personally go with the sleeper kit, less $, flows better. less install. we could help you configure the kit and we do some nice deals for the guys on the fuel / tuning ,et c...

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